st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

I'm getting error codes 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 38, 40, and 41. Yes, rats nest removed. Been driving it without emissions since feb. Only recent change was replacing the s4 intake with s5 intake (the car is s5, engine s5, P/O retarded/lazy)

Has anyone else encountered this error? If so, what did you do to fix it?

Thanks much.

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

Every code, the reason for it, and how to fix it, is all in the FSM.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Yes, but with a full time job, night class, and a family. I don't have a lot of time to sort through a thousand pages of a book that I don't understand.

I do appreciate you pointing me in the right direction, but I know what the codes are for... All of the solenoids. Yes they are removed. Yes it worked before. No it doesn't work now.

My point is I'm using this forum because it is the best use of my time. I could waste a month of my free time (Maybe 6 or 7 hours) pouring over the fsm trying to pinpoint my solution. Or perhaps a guru on the forum could take 5 minutes to type up a post saying "Yes, this happened to me before, I did bla bla bla to fix it" I say "thank you", and we've made an excellent use of the time saving powers of technology.

So does anyone have any useful advice?

hiideruhiro

What you could try to do is remove the negative battery cable, wait a few seconds, plug it back in, then read your trouble codes again. This resets the ECU so that you'll get a more consistent trouble code reading.

It'll also help if you explain what is happening with your car, then we could help you further.

prof

If you've removed the Emissions stuff (I'm guessing you've ditched the ACV on the side of the engine and possibly some of the other solenoid valves too) then your ECU will always report the codes unless you wire in a low value resistor in place of each solenoid - a 2W resistor value in the range 15-30 Ohms will probably stop the code being reported, as the ECU will see a load present when it goes through the test cycle.

Don't forget to disconnect the battery negative as the previous poster said, as that will clear the codes out of memory.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

Code # Output device
25 solenoid valve (pressure regulator control (PRC))
26 step motor (MOP)
30 split air solenoid valve
31 solenoid valve (relief)
32 solenoid valve (switch)
33 port air solenoid valve
34 solenoid valve (bypass air control (bac))
38 solenoid valve (accelerated warm-up system)
40~ auxiliary port valve
41~ solenoid valve (variable dynamic effect intake control (vdi))


did you wire up the VDI and AUX?

i really suggest following my image... its in your thread after all.


you could always find the resistance for the solenoids and just put the resisters on the loose connectors

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

I will try the resistor thing later today. Thank you.

Here is what I have done so far in my troubleshooting.

I have hunted for wires grounding out. Found one place in the harness that was a little thin so I wrapped it up in electrical tape. I have disconnected the negative terminal of the battery overnight and have the same results. I put a larger ring terminal on the only grounding point that I moved during the install (So I could mount is with an 8mm bolt instead of 6), and cleaned up a place to bolt it.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

well how are your aux port and vdi port wired up
if you just removed it with noway of actutting them you are losing quite a bit of power...

and in my experience with na rx7s... thats the last thing you want....

Saavedro88

iTrader: (1)

I feel like I keep bringing this up, but only because it actually worked for me. Mazda actually had a campaign on this one ground that would loosen, the symptoms were dim interior lights, rough running, and either a crap ton of error codes (Which I had) or no error codes. The ground is located just under the firewall VIN plate and reaches to the top of the transmission. Mine was actually burnt up so it was fairly easy to find. I'll try to take some pictures this evening when I get off work and post 'em up, but it only takes about two seconds to check this wire and it was totally worth it. Cleaned up pretty much everything that was wrong on my car...

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Well, fixed it. You won't guess in a million years what was causing the error codes... 4 vacuum nipples I forgot to cap. It runs now, just need an s5 fuel rail.