does anybody have any experience with aquamist or any other water injection system? specifically, are you running water injection with the stock intercooler? and if you are, does if bring charge temps down low enough to justify buying it or to just go ahead and go through the hassle of installing a front mount intercooler? any feedback would be appreciated.

 

Check the 3rd gen forum for zerobanger's thread on water injection. Alot more 3rd gen people seem to be using it than 2nd gen people.

 

Water injection is a complicated way of lowering air intake temps, and doesn't increase power like an upgraded intercooler does. Plus you don't have to keep refilling an intercooler.

 

CARX7 is running the Aquamist system on his FC, but he is using the Greddy V-spec too.

Jarrett

 

it's not all about making power. i want an engine to be reliable too. especially under higher than stock boost pressure.

 

I think what NZ is trying to say is that the stock IC isn't good enough at high PSI. Maybe it wasn't designed for it.


In any case my friend wankel7 was considering water injection with the stock IC. I told him to get a front mount. I would say go all out. FMIC and H2O injection. From what I have seen about cost from aquamist I would rather plunk down some change for a big front mounted IC.

 

Has anyone seen that nitrous intercooler cooling system nitrous express put out? It's this piping that goes in front of the intercooler and gets pumped with nitrous to make the core cold. I think generally water injection and this is the same idea, what do you guys think about that system?

 

i'd rather have water injection since water is relatively free and with the nitrous bar cooler you have to keep refilling the nitrous tank. and around here nitrous is about $3 per pound so each 10 lb bottle costs you $30.

 

and about the making power comment, the water injection may not make more power but it allows you to run leaner fuel mixtures and more advanced timing safely, thus making more power. plus it keeps your internals clean, cutting down on carbon build up and hot spots that can also cause detonation.

 

But Nitrous oxide also comes out at -127 degrees fahrenheit.... water is ambient.

 

The point of water injection is not to condense or cool the air like nitrous or an intercooler. It's not to make power either. It's to prevent detonation.

 

Well I wasn't actually, but that is right.
So does an upgraded intercooler, but water injection produces far less of a power increase, if any at all. This is because the water actually replaces the air, so there's less air to be combined with fuel for combustion. Water injection is for detonation supression, that's all.

 

Very good info here.

 

I had aquamist water injection with stock IC and it worked very well. Had about 250bhp at the time. Now I have aquamist and custom FMIC. Water injection gives only about 5 hp increase (300bhp at the moment) but next summer Ill get RB street port and To4B turbo so I believe aquamist gives alot more then. Water injection is good substitute for bigger IC and easy to install but if you are going for high hp figure (+300bhp) it is necessary to get bigger FMIC.

 

I'm running it on my 2nd. gen.
Running around 23 PSI with a FMIC and injecting around 400cc of H20\Methanol.
I have had good results with it.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...&threadid=9692

 

If the questions is IC or H20 Injection, then I'd say IC since it requires less maintenance and is inherently more reliable since it is not mechanical in nature. However for those looking for top performance or reliability, then H20 injection is most definatley a good option.

We need to be clear in saying that yes, just adding H20 may not realize an improvement by itself if the engine tunning is left alone. However, H20 provides the ability to lean out the fuel mixture without increasing probability of detonation.

Ever ask yourself why rotaries run rich? The excess fuel is used to keep heat down inside the combustions chamber. Water does a much better job of cooling things down than does gasoline. Add some water remove more fuel. Leaning things out will make more power. Leave things the same, the intake charge is cooler and detonation is suppressed further.

Check out this site for the chemical reaction behind all this: It actually shows that H20 HELPS the combustion process specifically at higher RPM's... thus cleaning up emissions as well.
http://www.teknett.com/pwp/drmayf/injchem.htm

So you can add H20 and lean out your mixture to make more power at a given boost level with roughly equal realibily. Or you can add H20 leaving the tunnnig, cool the intake charge, and increase reliability.

Personaly, once I turn my system on (it's installed but not connected to power at this moment) I plan to turn up the boost with the tunning roughly the same. 'Cause running water into the engine for detonation suppression is much cheaper than buying 101 octane