AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Sorry for the newb question, but.........

I have two 91 convertibles. One is stock, the other has a turbo conversion. Engine, ECU, the works. The problem is that the turbo came from michigan and the underbody is badly rusted. This sux cause the paint and visible part of the car is looks great. The Stocker has very little rust. Tiny tiny easy to take care of rust.

So i wanna do a swap. I've read through my manuals and alot of posts on engine swaps, but since I've never pulled an engine, i'm kinda clueless.

So,

Obviously I need a hoist to get the engine/trany combo outa the car. Anything special I should look for? Can I rent one, or should I just go to harbourfreight and buy one?

Will I need an engine stand? Or is there a way I can store the engine for the time it takes me to pull the other one and get this one into its new home? (old tire, 2x4s, my little slave girl?)

The Rear subframe Is actually in good condition, no rust to speak of and since it is easiest to just swap the subrames with the diff im just going to go that route. So once I have my car in the garage subframeless, how in the hell can I roll it outside so I can work on the other one? Or do I just have to man up and swap the subframe on car B in the rain?

Finally, any special tools I need? Number 19 left handed monkey wrench? upside down gearpuller? some dumbass Mazda SST?

I really don't wanna do this because like I said the car looks and drives great, but I look underneith it and I wanna cry.

Thanks for the help.

t24todd

iTrader: (7)

bigger tires can do for a temp stand or you can go by walmart or some place get a wooden pallet should be free and make a cradle for the engine pan nailing down some 2x4s..as faras the specialty tools im sure someone else has other methods i ending up buying the tools from racing beat (flywheel nut holder, flywheel puller, mayb a couple other odds and ends).. made my life alot easier then doing it the half assed way. make sure you have wide variety of sockets(normal/deep) along with the wrenches..alot of 10/12/14 mm bolts and nuts..get a haynes manual to help walk you through and take your time do not rush. pb blast and wd 40 will be your best friend. get some sandwhich bags to label and put nuts and washers in believe me you will loose alot of em and have fun with the swap..

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

I have to say, I don't think I saw anything but bolts and nuts ranging from 10-16mm under the hood. I just got done finishing mine, had the old motor out and the new one back in within like a week and I was slacking, maybe working on the car 2 or so hours a day.

Only odd ball socket I can think of is the 54mm you need for the flywheel. But if your not removing it, no worries.

Oh, and DONT get a engine lift from harbor freight. I got mine there, it worked nice for a while, at the end of my swap the thing would barely stay up. We had to keep jacking it to keep the engine in the air while we lowered it into the engine bay...

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

if you are pulling the motor and the clutch isnt new its a good idea to replace it while you are there. A 2 1/8 socket works as well as the 54mm.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Good so far guys.

I was thinking about doing the clutch with it out. BUT i was hoping that i could pull the engine/tranny together. Is this not recomended?

All my basic tools are quite good i got all the basics i need so I'm ok there. I got a new can of PB blaster yesterday. That was for the bumper and tow hooks. Still had to drill a few.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Pull them together, just have some one help you guide it.
In my opinion, it makes more sense and gets the job done in one try.

GOBLIN337

I think the only thing you will need is the flywheel nut and air compressor!! The rest should be no problem.

YBNORML

Getting the oil cooler lines off was the biggest problem that I had. The rear line has a strange-25mm?-size and finding the socket was a problem. I kept trying to round off the bolt with incorrect size wrenches and sockets.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

Oh the only thing I had a problem with was the pilot bearing. The tool from Advance just mangled the existing pilot bearing. Someone on here made their own tool using a bolt and some washers and a nut, I tried this and it theory it seemed good but I wound up snapping the bolt, If you try this method I would recommend the hardest bolt you can find.

If I had to do it again, I would pony up and get the Mazda tool. Check out that link and you will see why.


http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.c..._Pilot_Bearing