any one have the corksport autoexe member bars?
any one have the corksport autoexe member bars?
i was thinkin of makeing myself a set of these crossmember, the front seems pretty easy but the picture for the rear is kinda hard to tell what goes where? does any one have these of maybe does anyone have a better pic??
any help would be great..
thanks
--joe
any help would be great..
thanks
--joe
I don't have a better pic online, but allow me to quote myself quoting myself...
Another member asked how the rear Auto-X brace works in '06 so I will quote my response to him.
Quote:
I am looking at an article about the FC Auto-X bar in RX-7 Magazine #016 from 2002.
The rear braces are 4 pieces all together (2 for each side) consisting of a short tubular brace and a large triangulated brace per side.
The large triangular brace mounts-
To the chassis at the bottom of the front subframe mount (the giant stud) and connects forward to the chassis floor (making one side of the triangle)
It mounts to the rear subframe at the "Y" pipe hanger mounts (making the 2 remaining sides). The piece angling from the frontmost of the chassis to chassis side to the subframe is a square tube the rest is reinforced plates.
The small tube braces-
From outward trailing arm pivot (the fixed pivot) inward to top of the floating trailing arm pivot. It is two plates the pivot bolts go through connected by a tube section.
The traingular braces would eliminate side to side and front to back movement of the subframe, but allow for the up and down movement (so sublink camber rod would work). There would definitely be some noise/vibration transmitted from subframe to chassis.
The tubular pieces reinforce the trailing arm pivots for more precise geometry and less binding.
I am very interested in trying the Auto-X braces myself!
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Quote:
I am looking at an article about the FC Auto-X bar in RX-7 Magazine #016 from 2002.
The rear braces are 4 pieces all together (2 for each side) consisting of a short tubular brace and a large triangulated brace per side.
The large triangular brace mounts-
To the chassis at the bottom of the front subframe mount (the giant stud) and connects forward to the chassis floor (making one side of the triangle)
It mounts to the rear subframe at the "Y" pipe hanger mounts (making the 2 remaining sides). The piece angling from the frontmost of the chassis to chassis side to the subframe is a square tube the rest is reinforced plates.
The small tube braces-
From outward trailing arm pivot (the fixed pivot) inward to top of the floating trailing arm pivot. It is two plates the pivot bolts go through connected by a tube section.
The traingular braces would eliminate side to side and front to back movement of the subframe, but allow for the up and down movement (so sublink camber rod would work). There would definitely be some noise/vibration transmitted from subframe to chassis.
The tubular pieces reinforce the trailing arm pivots for more precise geometry and less binding.
I am very interested in trying the Auto-X braces myself!
BLUE TII is online now Report Post Reply With Quote
I wanna go fast
Joined: May 2006
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From: North Bend, WA
im pretty sure there was a thread similar to this a while ago...ok here https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-build-lower-arm-bar-under-%2415-448638/
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personally i think the most important piece in this whole package is the rear subframe brace. if this brace can really assist in locking down the geometry of the rear, it could be a huge change in the handling characteristics of the fc.
I wanna go fast
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From: North Bend, WA
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From: BC, Canada
Actually, if you think about the load paths, there's a direct path for the loads fore and aft (floorpan), but not a direct one across the transmission tunnel. Therefore the diagonal bracing of the Auto EXE brace is inefficient, as it's not bracing directly across the place where it's most needed. This loads the bar under bending where it's much less stiff than if its loaded under compression and tension, like mine. Now having those diagonals in addition to the bar straight across couldn't hurt other than for the slight weight addition, but I believe that bracing it straight across is the better way to go if you had to choose between the two, besides, it's WAAAAAAAAY cheaper to do it my way.
Now the Auto EXE front brace might help the torsional stiffness of the car a bit, but it's not the best way to brace the suspension IMHO.
Now the Auto EXE front brace might help the torsional stiffness of the car a bit, but it's not the best way to brace the suspension IMHO.
The Auto-x diagonal braces in front and pieces of the rear do something that your straight across front brace does not.
Ties the subframe structures into the unibody.
Which may not be legal in some classes of racing....
Ties the subframe structures into the unibody.
Which may not be legal in some classes of racing....
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From: BC, Canada
But the subframe is bolted to the car, so that'll give it a load path for the fore and aft loading right into the floor pan, so a bar straight across provides the most direct load path across the weakest part. I'm not trying to say that those braces are bad or that they don't do anything, I'm just saying that they're maybe not as good as one might think because there's no direct load path between the two suspension arms. If I had one of those, I'd have an addition bar welded in across the front.
Think also of the vector of the load you are trying to compensate for.
If you put the car on a rack, turn the wheels and imagine a line from the contact patch perpendicular to the direction of vehicular travel.
Now create a brace that will stress the bar along its length while having that force acting upon it and it will look like the Auto-x bar.
If you put the car on a rack, turn the wheels and imagine a line from the contact patch perpendicular to the direction of vehicular travel.
Now create a brace that will stress the bar along its length while having that force acting upon it and it will look like the Auto-x bar.