Okay, I know how to adjust it and everything. I just noticed something in the FSM and haynes manual that I was currious about.

In the haynes manual it says on step five:


If the sensor is out of adjustment, it must be adjusted before proceeding. Unfortunately the throttle sensor cannot be adjusted without a special checker lamp. You will have to take the vehicle to a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop to have the throttle sensor adjusted or replaced.


Alright. And in the FSM it says:


1 disconnect the throttle sensor.

2 measure the resistence of the throttle sensors.

3 Replace the throttle sensor if necessary.....


(YAY! We all know what "if necessary" means)


Caution.

Do not adjust the throttle sensors except when installing a replacement assembly. There is a throttle position auto adjust system in the engine control unit.


So according to the FSM.....Am I to assume you can't adjust the throttle sensor if it went out of adjustment? You have to get a new one and then adjust it?

What the hell?

If I get a new TPS, why the hell would I have to check the resistence and adjust accordingly when there's this "auto-adjust system" in the ECU? If I can adjust a new TPS after a fresh install, why the hell can't I adjust any other used and functioning TPS?

Can you adjust the freaking TPS or not?

 

Lots of people make those checker lamps for themselves, and the procedure is all over the net, so ingnore Mr. Haynes.

I know the TPS (at least on S4 cars) can be adjusted, because I have done it on my car, and other cars...I do know that the S5 TPS is different, but I have no experience with it.

 

Many, many threads about adj. I believe in my FSM it states if the TPS is found to be faulty, through voltage/resistance testing, it is to be replaced .If you want to adjust it use the 1Kohm, and/or the green checker with 1 or 2 meters. As long as everything checks out OK, you'll be fine after setting it.

 

I believe in my FSM it states if the TPS is found to be faulty


Which FSM are you using? I'm using the one off of fc3s.org and just double checked it for the information you're talking about, which it does not seem to have.

If the FSM that you're using defines: "If Necessary" I would love to get my own copy.

 

Check with the resistance values given in the FSM for both pots. It should be a linear resistance going both ways, in and out. If not, replace it because it's bad. Check the starting resistance and ending resistance to match the values in the FSM at least somewhat as well. These can be adjusted slightly by moving the entire bracket that holds the TPS(like if you start at 1.5 and end at close to 6.0, you can move it slightly and start with 1.1 and end with around 5.2 or something). I had to do that with mine for a used but good TPS to replace my old bad one. Just reset the ECU after getting the values straight by disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes.

 

My TII TPS checked good, but was still intermittantly throwing code 18.
I pulled it off and found as I moved the plunger in & out, there was a jump in the VOM needle sweep around 3K ohms.
After a few shots of spray contact cleaner between the sleeve & plunger, it smoothed right out.
I reinstalled it & set the warmed up idle stop resistance to 1K ohms.
It now works perfect.

 

Thanks guys.

When i first started messing around with it it was 3000k at full closed and didn't go down at all when I started to turn the screw a little ways....So I thought I was doing something wrong. So I let her sit for a week while I thought about it. Gave the tps another pass after talking to Aaroncake. Instead of stopping at half way I just kept turning that sucker until it went all the down to 1000k, incidentally, so is the spring in the adjustment screw. That's what led me to believe the TPS was still screwy even after adjustment, and my FSM doesn't seem to like to explain "necessary" TPS's are not cheap and don't want to replace it if I don't have to.

 

My TII TPS checked good, but was still intermittantly throwing code 18.
I pulled it off and found as I moved the plunger in & out, there was a jump in the VOM needle sweep around 3K ohms.
After a few shots of spray contact cleaner between the sleeve & plunger, it smoothed right out.
I reinstalled it & set the warmed up idle stop resistance to 1K ohms.
It now works perfect.



Sureshot, I did not even think about clean electrical connectivity. Drrrrr. So I really appreciate that suggestion. Its so damn cold in CO right now, I'll start tinkering when it warms up a little.

 

Be very careful using spray cleaner on the TPS. Most cleaners are designed to dissolve carbon. The resistive element in the TPS is made of carbon, so if you get the cleaner inside, it will kill the TPS.