Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

Ok, here's how it stands

My engine is apart, and here's what I have planned.

Stage II Streetport
FULL Rebuild
Replacing most/all hoses
Electric Fan
PR Racing Sleeves
TB Mod
Replacing Engine & Transmission Mounts

Is there anything else I should think about doing while the engine is out and apart? I'm on a limited budget, so enlarged oil passages, and 3mm seals are out of the question. THX

~ The Evil Pentagram Goat Head

Edit: Just realized... I'm saying goodbye to the Air Pump, and just going with www.fc3s.org 's Electronic 6th Port Actuation system. So... if there's no Airpump... I can take off the EGR... and the Cold Start... GREAT another fun-filled hour of searching.

FC3AZ

nice avatar........ :/

Agent_D

iTrader: (2)

the thermo pellet block off thing, thats about all i can think of, or like 3 window main bearings, and FD rotor bearing, not too expensive

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

Hate to seem like a dumdass here but...

I read the DIY about the thermo pellet. And it doesn't seem hard to do.

But what does the mod DO, and how does it do it by adding a few washers.

Bambam7

Compare it to the thermostat on your coolant system

I may have some specifics wrong- but this is gerenally how it works:
When the oil gets hot, it opens (more thermowax!) , and allows oil to
circulate through the oil cooler...
If this gets jammed, the oil can get too hot, and decrease the life of the engine.
It isn't a catastrophic failure like if the actual thermostat doeesn't open, but it will lead to failure MUCH sooner than your engine should.

The shimming locks it open. It may take a few seconds longer to heat up the oil when its really cold out, but I don't think that would be noticable.


And, LA: nice setup! I better watch my rear veiw mirrors!!

Oh- A nice free mod- Port your intake manifold!! It's good for 5-10 HP!
You just need a dremel or grinder (even a drill), and port match the passeges, and smooth things out a bit (takes a few hours)

SureShot

You may have already done this, as part of the TB mod. Remove the 3/8" coolant circuit & cap the fittings. That 90 deg hose under the manifold is a leak waiting to happen. Also with no air pump, you can loose the ACV on the lower intake. And - hey - there goes the ACV relief tube & it's plastic muffler. And - hey - now there is room for cold air intake from below the bumper. (Arn't RX's fun?)

SoloIIdrift

While the motor's out you might want to think about a used lightweight flywheel

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I had capping the coolant line in mind when I did the setup.

I can't afford a lightweight flywheel right now ( ) but, when the time comes, pulling the engine only took me a little over 5 hours.

Bambam7, thanks a lot, I'm kindof working at it based on your car, Mazdaspeed7's, and anything else I come across that seems like a good idea.

Keep em' coming. The cheaper, the better!

Wankel7

BamBam, I think what Mr. Liquid and you are talking about are two different things completly.

I believe Mr. Liquid is talking about the oil bypass in the front of the eccentric shaft. When the oil is cold it does not let oil (or restricts oil...unsure) to the rotor bearings. Then, as the oil heats up this valve moves and allows oil to flow through the rotor bearings as it should. The shiming simply makes this valve open at all times. Therefore from the second you start to the second you shut down oil is flowing at 100% through the rotor bearings.

What you are talking about BamBam is the thermostat located in the oilcooler. If this thermostat is stuck in its resting position (open) the oil will get much to hot. But if it is stuck in the closed posistion the oil will get over cooled and may take extended periods to reach normal operating temp. This leads to increased wear on your internal moving parts.

Just trying to find out who is talking about what.

James

And why can't people sign their name? Mr. Liquid sounds weird.