Seeing as the oil seals on my turbo are well on their way out, my turbo upgrade plans are getting accelerated a little bit. I'm shooting for about 280-300 SAFE whp since it will be auto-x'd and maybe spend a few days at the track (probably will DD the car for a little bit after the upgrade too). I have purchased or will soon purchase the following:

BNR stage 2, maybe 3?
720cc secondaries (do I need to go bigger?)
Wideband, probably an UEGO
Griffin radiator
Supra fuel pump
FPR?

Is an SAFC2 gonna be able to make these numbers safely? or should I be adding a megasquirt to the budget? I plan on getting it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing. Engine is 20k old and has 100s on both rotors. Basically I just want to know if I am asking for trouble? Searching didn't quite answer all my questions, and I wanna make sure I'm on the right track before buying the rest of this stuff. Thanks!

-Nick

 

do rtek 1.7 or 2.0
i dont like s-afc cause it fakes out the AFM. the rtek eliminates the fuel cut totally and gives you timing too.
rtek 2.0 could handle it better than safc2 and is way more capable.
make sure your engine harness is proper though, either go through it and fix it, or buy a new one ($600ish).
-Ben Martin

*edit* and w/ the supra pump. MAKE SURE your alternator can give you good voltage. supra pumps are very voltage dependent, but i dont think itd be as critical on low 300hp, the car i saw that blew up from it was well over 400rwhp on pump gas alone and ahd a bad alt and that leaned it out from the supra pump being a bitch

 

S5. no rteks for me :-(

 

uhm, the hks fcon modifies the actual injector signal. I'd go w/ it if you're insistent on piggyback. Standalones are $$$ at first but worth it. FC is 8 bit, F-Con is 16bit and since it runs your injectors, it actually runs a tiny bit smoother, from a piggyback. imagine a 32bit standalone thats not early 1980s special. there are apexi power fc's for the s5, but never had any experience w/ them. they work real nice on the FDs though.
ive seen hybrids w/ just FCD and s-afc and pump and secondaries before though. it can work, it is just shoddy to me after a certain point. maybe it was the 1680cc secondaries and teh s-afc turned ALLLLLLL the way down at 3800rpm and up lol
im picky though and like to waste money, i am getting a wolf 3d for my hybrid, but its ported and hicomp too

 

I don't like rushing this either, but I'd like to get the turbo done before it takes a complete ****. 1680s are WAY bigger than I'd ever try to run off the SAFC... thats def standalone territory

 

yeah, ive heard of people running 1680s and t70s off of stock ecu totally ghetto rigged and it working just fine, but pig rich and nasty.

i understand what you mean, im coming up on the year mark for my **** being blowed up, and can just barely see the light at the end of the tunnel, but im starting to just go overkill on everything

 

You can run the s5 ECU, you just need a FCD and 4 720's with and AFC 2. You will want to retard the timing with the CAS anywhere from 3-6 degrees depending on port sizing and boost level. I wouldn't run the stock ECU past 350 RWHP or 14-15 psi of boost.

Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193

 

buying primary 720 cc injectors is pointless. 550's can handle 300 whp. you only need 720 secondaries because most of the power is made while the secondaries are open, not the primaries.

 

can anyone back this up'?

 

I believe that Bryan may be suggesting the 4 720cc inj and SAFC2 together for ease of tuning as well as some safety margin.

 

Why would you waste time with all of these shoddy ECU's?

Stock = POS

SAFC2 = Waste of money

Rtek(1.5,1.6,1.7,1.8,2.0) = Waste of money

F-Con = Waste of money

Megasquirt = VALUE! It is great..easy to tune, setup up, cheaper than most things listed, etc...

 

What's setup up???

 

No, cause its the most ridiculous statement I have ever seen..

 

Can't anyone just say "you should be fine" or "no, your gonna blow the engine the first time you hit the gas"? This is exactly what I ran into when searching past threads. I'm not looking to break any horsepower records here, I just want to know if it will run reliably til I can afford something better. I know there are better options out there than what I am running, but I can't afford/don't have experience with them. Until I graduate, I'm doin a budget build, but trying to do it as correctly as possible. I'm not upset at everyone in the thread for their input, its just that I was hoping to avoid having it descend into a huge debate about things like the other threads I looked at did.

Is it a general consensus that I need 4 720s? Would a 550-800 combo work just as well?

 

it should work, but for how long is entirely unanswerable.

The best combo for saftey tuning in my mind if using an S-AFC would be 4 - 720's. It will run rich at idle, and generally burn way more gas then now. But will be slightly more easier to tune.

You would probably be OK with just 720 secondaires though....

Don't bother with a FPR, you aren't going to be pushing HUGE IDC's on that setup....

I would personally go with a walbro pump though, cheap, reliable and readily available, but the supra pump will do it for ya.

*ideally* if you are even THINKING about getting an EMS, do it. You won't regret it and it will allow you to have this setup tuned very safely, and run very smoothly. Not to mention that any additions you make to the setup in the future will be added more easily because you've already got control over the ignition and fuel entirely.

Plus the engine bay looks sweet sans AFM......

 

A. you will blow something if you dont have enough fuel (if you do not have supporting fuel mods such as larger secondaries, and maybe larger primaries, and a fuel pump to support it all.)
B. you wont blow something if you have larger injector and a better fuel pump.
But i do advise you to get a some sort of fuel management otherwise you would run pig rich

 

I got both the supra pump and SAFC used at good prices which is why that is whats goin in at the moment. I'm looking towards a megasquirt this summer, but its not something I want to attempt on my only car during the winter when I need to get to work (I know a standalone will be more reliable blah blah but there isn't much of a rotary community out here in WNY, and I don't trust myself to set up a megasquirt with no one local to help me out). Plus, the SAFC was only $150, so thats still a whole lot cheaper than the MS.

 

The Main problem which I am currently finding out, which has already been addressed by Node is: 20 year old wiring harness. It'll **** you in more ways than one. I wish I had taken everyone's advice when they said "Get a Standalone, you won't regret it" And now thats the next thing on the list.

Chris