I know many of you have been looking for a big brake kit for the fronts of you FC. here is one more option for you if you are interested. there is a race service shop here locally that builds big brake systems for various cars.

they use the stock caliper from either a Nissan 300ZX turbo/HCR-32 skyline and the rotor from a ECR34 skyline with the center machined to fit the FC hub. they sell the rotors and brackets as a kit and you provide the calipers.

you end up with a 30 mm thick rotor thats 310 mm (1.15" x 12.2" for the metric impaired) for about 550 shipped. I am not sure what the calipers run in the states but over here they useually run about 100~150 ish per pair in decent shape. the good thing is that you can get several different compounds from hawk for the calipers at reasonable prices.

I just installed mine and still need to get my adjustable brake bias installed but it deffinitely requires less effort to get stopped due to the leverage on the rotor. best thin is the 4 piston calipers that the nissan uses (sumitomo) have about the same size pistons as the 4 pot mazda's I have not measured them with calipers yet, but they eyeball in fairly close, and I did not gain any pedal travel after installing them.

just one more item available for the FC guys....they also make a FD kit.

kenn

 

pics...?

 

Is there really a big difference between the braking power of Nissan's and RX7's 4 pot?? I know I'm deceived about my GXL brakes (4 pot) but still, I'm wondering....

 

You won't find improved braking power because your 4 pots will lock up your tires anyway. Big brake kits are for looks or track use. Looks in that its big, track use to reduce brake fade.

 

well you are in japan im sure its done more then out here where people think its unnecessary. Id sure love me some Z32 calipers though.. id the conversion on my old s13.

Someone should make Z32 adapters though,.. fit em to more cheaply mitsubishi 3000gt /gto for use out here... =Huge!!

 

agreed, as long as you can lock up your tires, your brakes are big enough. big brakes are just so they dissipate heat better so they don't get heat soaked and stop working efficiently (aka, only happens on a track, and even then, you have to be on the track for a while)

stock brakes are fine in my opinion...

 

and thats why the FC aftermarket would never sell in the US. =(

 

I'm interested. My brakes held up well at the last track event, but if I'm gonna run more power, I'm going to need something more substantial. A friend of mine was/is in the process of finalizing his BBK, but he's run into liability issues.

Pics would be nice.

 

Increasing the size of the rotor means a larger brake effective radius (lever arm from axle nut to outer edge of rotor) which increases the clamping power as well as dissipating heat faster.

Most people's brakes can outperform the tires at lower speeds, FCs come with a very nice fixed 4 piston caliper setup from the factory so unless you're tracking the car I doubt you'd notice the difference. It sounds like a great upgrade however and theres tons of track FCs on this board.

 

the stock calpiers may be big enough, but they still suck. they work great, but dont last for **** imo. i find that the only way to make them live longer is to bleed them constantly. and most of my miles are highway miles, too.

 

You've got a problem with your brake system.
First of all, on the highway you're hardly even using the brakes and second, once the system is bled it should be good for quite a while.

 

if air is getting back into the system after you bleed your brakes you have an air leak somewhere, probably in your caliper seals or your brake master cylinder.

 

no, no leaks, no air. i dont abuse my system but occasionally, i just find that after a small amount of working the stopping system, if not taken care of, the caliper pistions like to freeze up. if you let them sit too long when not driving the car for a while, they freeze up. new calipers are sometimes hard to find, (the 4 piston ones) and they cost a fortune. and one of the new ones i picked up had a stripped bleeder screw from the store.

when it works, it works fine. i just find the calipers rather finiky

 

If you have to bleed your brakes constantly, you have a leak. Either in the master cylinder, plumbing or caliper itself. Very common for a pinhole to develop where the main rear brake line passes under the storage bins and connects to the splitter.

The stock 4 piston design is good enough that Mazda used the same thing on the FD, though with a slightly larger rotor.

 

Remaned calipers are $80 at carquest...If you have stuck or sticking calipers you need to replace them.

If you get one with a bad bleder just give it back to them and ask for another.

 

previously discussed

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=300zx+brakes
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=300zx+brakes

possibly marginal benefit
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=21

US 300zx caliper differences for anyone who actually wants to do this
http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm <- see link for pictures on how to tell the calipers apart

 

i'd love to see more options for the FC, even better if it'll fit under the 16'' rims

current options:

evo :
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/my-evo-ix-brembo-calipers-fc3s-upgrade-719280/
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/my-20b-racecar-thread-767875/

stock caliper + bigger rotor
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/mandeville-style-4-wheel-big-brakes-fc-feedback-needed-739122/

edit:
none of those work with my 16's ....

 

I completely disagree. When I do downhill runs on my mountain pass, my brakes get so hot, even w/ the 4 pots. They get so hot I couldn't lock my tires up if I wanted to. It actually gets pretty sketchy near the bottom, cause I have so little braking force. I'm definately in need of better brakes. After I fix my oil leak, replace my water pump, get my header, presilencer, and exhaust combo. Then I'm definately doin something about the brakes.

This might work for me, cause just drilled and slotted rotors and pads are about $550 (roughly).

 

You are talking about brake fade, which if you read closely, I say big brake kits are good for.

 

What pads/rotors/fluids/lines are you running?

 

I would run some heavy brake ducting instead of a brake upgrade Tyler. Are you sure thats not your fluid boiling? Brake fluid absorbs air over time lowering its boiling point. I would run brake ducting and run DOT 4 fluid.

I remember I got fade a lot too on street runs, my hawk pads were shot at 5000 miles and had huge stress cracks and glazing.