Fingers

Hey guys... i got a f&cked up problem with my electrical components in my 7 (join the club, eh?).... i finally seem to have figured out what might be causing it.... you see, for the longest time, my voltage kept dropping from 13.5 to about 8 for a brief period of time (about a second). This sometimes causes my amps to shut down. since i have a competition system, its not the most desireable thing in the world to shut down the amps and turn them back on... it also gets annoying. Now then... i have an Optima yellow top battery, a new alternator, 4 gauge grounds from the battery to the ground.

The problem stems from when i depress my brake pedal with medium force. Sometimes it happens then. Sometimes it does not. Whenever it doesnt, if i press my brake pedal HARDER, while already depressed it does it then. Sometimes it doesnt do it at all, until i press it 4 or 5 times within the proximity of about 20 seconds. I've noticed a trend that will help me in my troubleshooting though... whenever the drain happens, i hear a click coming from the back of my car, specifically where the spare tire is. WTF COULD THIS BEEEEE!!! This is driving me NUTS!!! none of the fuses are blowing... nor the lights... but i gotta fix this voltage drop asap!!!. The click only happens when the voltage drops. 1987 GXL non-turbo.

I'm running out of hair to tear off my head. Perhaps you guys could help
If you need further clarification, PLEASE CONTACT ME!!!
Thanks
-Ross

Bambam7

Are you sure the click is coming from the back of the car??

OK- Do you have adjustable suspension?

If so- it's probably that that's causing the drain.
When braking, it changes the modes to prevent front end dive...
IF you have AAS, then try switching it from normal to sport and watching your voltage gauge, see if it drops much.
If so- that's your problem.... How to fix it? Well. several options, like replacing your shocks, are the AAS brain... or whatever, I'm not too sure.
There may be a fuse for it- take it out, and see what happens.

Fingers

wicked! i think that might be it, because it does depend alot on the brake pressure... i'll check that out today. Now then, would it be possible to just unplug the shock towers? There is a connector there (however, it is blocked by my enclosure)... i'll check this out today
thanks alot!!

RETed

If your clutch hydraulics are original, change ALL OF THEM.
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/DT/CLUTCH/cmaster.htm



-Ted

Scott 89t2

Ted's be on a downward fall latly... what does the clutch have to do with the voltage LOL

Icemark

Would help if we knew the model and year.

Have you check alt. output yet?

I would be looking at either a bad alt or the AAS, but the AAS wouldn't be on anything but a GXL and a T2.

Fingers

Hey BAMBAM7, have i told you how much i love you? Your diagnosis was right on. I never noticed before but when you switch between normal and sport, thats when the voltage drop occurs (two clicks) when you press the brakes, or accelerate sharply, one click. So now i ask you, wtf could be wrong? can i fix it, or should i just turn the entire bloody system off?

Fingers

oh yes, its a 1987 gxl

RETed

I swear that reply was for some other thread!&nbsp DOH!



-Ted

Fingers

All hail almighty Ted :P
It's alright ted, we'll allow one mistake a week.
haha!
Now seriously, what the hell could i do to fix my aas?
will my handling be adversely affected if i remove the system?
Thanks
-Ross

RETed

How low does the RPM's get?&nbsp It could be possible you have an intake vacuum leak, and it's almost stalling when trying to idle under load (electrical).&nbsp Low RPM's KILL output from the alternator...


-Ted

Fingers

drops about 200-300 rpms... but yeah... its definitely the AAS.