Allright, what front Mounts do you guys have
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Allright, what front Mounts do you guys have
Need a front mount for my next mod and was wondering what you guys had, prices, procedures, ect. Thanks
-Dustin
-Dustin
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Thanks Snowball, looks like a sharp job well done. Just what I have in mind for my 88t2-(microtech lt-8s, 3'' turbo-back stainless, weapon-r intake,hks super BOV, rebuilt/streetported /ECU street tunned by banzairacing.net, trottle body mod, 1000cc secondaries, intrax springs, tokico shocks, drilled slotted rotors. Need fuel pump, boost controller, and bigger turbo than stock. I'm pushing about 9lbs but not worried until I find a boost controller.
-Dustin
-Dustin
damn... another front mount thread.... thats like 4 this week.... sheesh
ebay front mounts are fine... i got a godspeed 12x24x3 intercooler w/ 3" piping
also, check this thread out.. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/where-can-i-get-intercooler-piping-fmic-586506/
ebay front mounts are fine... i got a godspeed 12x24x3 intercooler w/ 3" piping
also, check this thread out.. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/where-can-i-get-intercooler-piping-fmic-586506/
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I live in the lounge...
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,000
Likes: 0
From: lathrup, MI
Originally Posted by RX7Boy06
hey snoball in that sec pic is the door on that car flat black? Cause thats wat i want to paint my whole car, also how good are are the ebay front mounts?
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Thanks a lot guys. Keep ur installs, prices,locations, pictures, and comments comming. And would somebody give ( kckhan) up here a proper explanation of the purpose for a front mount intercooler set-up. later
-Dustin
-Dustin
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Most people will be running the newer style greddy. It is actually made for jspec cars, meaning one of the pipes hits the lefthand drive cars' (ours) brake master cylinder, unless you do some trimming. When installing these in the past, I use big hose clamps from dryer vents around the brake master cylinder to hold the reservoir from getting disturbed by this pipe.
You also have to relocate your leading coil, and the pipe between the P/s pump and the strut tower basically barely fits after you wedge it in. When driving normally the engine's torque pushes it against this pipe, basically turning the pipe into an engine torque brace and transmitting vibration into the chassis from the engine. This kit works best on cars with removed P/s and a/c.
My problem with the greddy is that literally HALF of the massive core gets stuffed up inside the bumper and doesnt see much airflow. It's a huge waste, and probably hurts overall efficiency. I have NO IDEA why they felt the core needed to be so big, especially when most of it doesnt see any air unless you cut the front bumper to the point that it looks stupid. Seriously, the core mounts right under the hood latch.
Another problem I have with it is that the pipes prohibit you from keeping the (cool, in my opinion) series 5 fog lights, if you have them.
The new greddy kit costs about $950 new, or about 750 used when you can find them. You also have to buy an aftermarket BOV and a weld flange, and have it welded onto your pretty new piping, which I think is really gay. IF they can design the piping for a specific vehicle, they could just as easily pick an appropriate location for the BOV and put the damned flange on there for you.
I personally like the old school HKS kit where both pipes run on the passenger side of the car. It requires minimal cutting, the core sits further back and doesn't catch every little rock that flies up at it, and isn't so "bling bling, look at my FMIC" since it sits further back from the bumper. You dont even have to remove the bumper to install it...it just slides right up in there. You only have to cut one small hole in an obscure location for the piping. IT cools very well. The throttlebody elbow has 2 spots for additional injectors.
Trust/greddy made an old school kit similar to this, as did RE Amemiya. They are all basically teh same with small differences in pipe routing. The HKS, from what I recall, had a smaller nipple welded onto the pipes that allowed you to run the stock BOV if you wanted, or of course you can just get a hose/flange and aftermarket valve as well, no welding required. You can usually get these old kits for $400-600 depending on condition, but generally the pipes are a little hacked up and the core fins are a bit bent up.
The purpose of a front mount intercooler is to cool the hot air that the turbo pushes into the engine. Anytime you compress air you heat it. Hot air makes less power than cold air. It also is more likely to cause damaging engine ping/preignition which is what blows up boosted engines. An intercooler simply cools the air passing through it, so the more cool/ambient air you can expose the intercooler to, the better job it can do of cooling the air inside. More air hits the very nose of the car than goes through the tiny turbo II hood scoop, so putting an IC in the front makes it far more efficient.
You also have to relocate your leading coil, and the pipe between the P/s pump and the strut tower basically barely fits after you wedge it in. When driving normally the engine's torque pushes it against this pipe, basically turning the pipe into an engine torque brace and transmitting vibration into the chassis from the engine. This kit works best on cars with removed P/s and a/c.
My problem with the greddy is that literally HALF of the massive core gets stuffed up inside the bumper and doesnt see much airflow. It's a huge waste, and probably hurts overall efficiency. I have NO IDEA why they felt the core needed to be so big, especially when most of it doesnt see any air unless you cut the front bumper to the point that it looks stupid. Seriously, the core mounts right under the hood latch.
Another problem I have with it is that the pipes prohibit you from keeping the (cool, in my opinion) series 5 fog lights, if you have them.
The new greddy kit costs about $950 new, or about 750 used when you can find them. You also have to buy an aftermarket BOV and a weld flange, and have it welded onto your pretty new piping, which I think is really gay. IF they can design the piping for a specific vehicle, they could just as easily pick an appropriate location for the BOV and put the damned flange on there for you.
I personally like the old school HKS kit where both pipes run on the passenger side of the car. It requires minimal cutting, the core sits further back and doesn't catch every little rock that flies up at it, and isn't so "bling bling, look at my FMIC" since it sits further back from the bumper. You dont even have to remove the bumper to install it...it just slides right up in there. You only have to cut one small hole in an obscure location for the piping. IT cools very well. The throttlebody elbow has 2 spots for additional injectors.
Trust/greddy made an old school kit similar to this, as did RE Amemiya. They are all basically teh same with small differences in pipe routing. The HKS, from what I recall, had a smaller nipple welded onto the pipes that allowed you to run the stock BOV if you wanted, or of course you can just get a hose/flange and aftermarket valve as well, no welding required. You can usually get these old kits for $400-600 depending on condition, but generally the pipes are a little hacked up and the core fins are a bit bent up.
The purpose of a front mount intercooler is to cool the hot air that the turbo pushes into the engine. Anytime you compress air you heat it. Hot air makes less power than cold air. It also is more likely to cause damaging engine ping/preignition which is what blows up boosted engines. An intercooler simply cools the air passing through it, so the more cool/ambient air you can expose the intercooler to, the better job it can do of cooling the air inside. More air hits the very nose of the car than goes through the tiny turbo II hood scoop, so putting an IC in the front makes it far more efficient.
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Most people will be running the newer style greddy. It is actually made for jspec cars, meaning one of the pipes hits the lefthand drive cars' (ours) brake master cylinder, unless you do some trimming. When installing these in the past, I use big hose clamps from dryer vents around the brake master cylinder to hold the reservoir from getting disturbed by this pipe.
You also have to relocate your leading coil, and the pipe between the P/s pump and the strut tower basically barely fits after you wedge it in. When driving normally the engine's torque pushes it against this pipe, basically turning the pipe into an engine torque brace and transmitting vibration into the chassis from the engine. This kit works best on cars with removed P/s and a/c.
My problem with the greddy is that literally HALF of the massive core gets stuffed up inside the bumper and doesnt see much airflow. It's a huge waste, and probably hurts overall efficiency. I have NO IDEA why they felt the core needed to be so big, especially when most of it doesnt see any air unless you cut the front bumper to the point that it looks stupid. Seriously, the core mounts right under the hood latch.
Another problem I have with it is that the pipes prohibit you from keeping the (cool, in my opinion) series 5 fog lights, if you have them.
The new greddy kit costs about $950 new, or about 750 used when you can find them. You also have to buy an aftermarket BOV and a weld flange, and have it welded onto your pretty new piping, which I think is really gay. IF they can design the piping for a specific vehicle, they could just as easily pick an appropriate location for the BOV and put the damned flange on there for you.
I personally like the old school HKS kit where both pipes run on the passenger side of the car. It requires minimal cutting, the core sits further back and doesn't catch every little rock that flies up at it, and isn't so "bling bling, look at my FMIC" since it sits further back from the bumper. You dont even have to remove the bumper to install it...it just slides right up in there. You only have to cut one small hole in an obscure location for the piping. IT cools very well. The throttlebody elbow has 2 spots for additional injectors.
Trust/greddy made an old school kit similar to this, as did RE Amemiya. They are all basically teh same with small differences in pipe routing. The HKS, from what I recall, had a smaller nipple welded onto the pipes that allowed you to run the stock BOV if you wanted, or of course you can just get a hose/flange and aftermarket valve as well, no welding required. You can usually get these old kits for $400-600 depending on condition, but generally the pipes are a little hacked up and the core fins are a bit bent up.
The purpose of a front mount intercooler is to cool the hot air that the turbo pushes into the engine. Anytime you compress air you heat it. Hot air makes less power than cold air. It also is more likely to cause damaging engine ping/preignition which is what blows up boosted engines. An intercooler simply cools the air passing through it, so the more cool/ambient air you can expose the intercooler to, the better job it can do of cooling the air inside. More air hits the very nose of the car than goes through the tiny turbo II hood scoop, so putting an IC in the front makes it far more efficient.
You also have to relocate your leading coil, and the pipe between the P/s pump and the strut tower basically barely fits after you wedge it in. When driving normally the engine's torque pushes it against this pipe, basically turning the pipe into an engine torque brace and transmitting vibration into the chassis from the engine. This kit works best on cars with removed P/s and a/c.
My problem with the greddy is that literally HALF of the massive core gets stuffed up inside the bumper and doesnt see much airflow. It's a huge waste, and probably hurts overall efficiency. I have NO IDEA why they felt the core needed to be so big, especially when most of it doesnt see any air unless you cut the front bumper to the point that it looks stupid. Seriously, the core mounts right under the hood latch.
Another problem I have with it is that the pipes prohibit you from keeping the (cool, in my opinion) series 5 fog lights, if you have them.
The new greddy kit costs about $950 new, or about 750 used when you can find them. You also have to buy an aftermarket BOV and a weld flange, and have it welded onto your pretty new piping, which I think is really gay. IF they can design the piping for a specific vehicle, they could just as easily pick an appropriate location for the BOV and put the damned flange on there for you.
I personally like the old school HKS kit where both pipes run on the passenger side of the car. It requires minimal cutting, the core sits further back and doesn't catch every little rock that flies up at it, and isn't so "bling bling, look at my FMIC" since it sits further back from the bumper. You dont even have to remove the bumper to install it...it just slides right up in there. You only have to cut one small hole in an obscure location for the piping. IT cools very well. The throttlebody elbow has 2 spots for additional injectors.
Trust/greddy made an old school kit similar to this, as did RE Amemiya. They are all basically teh same with small differences in pipe routing. The HKS, from what I recall, had a smaller nipple welded onto the pipes that allowed you to run the stock BOV if you wanted, or of course you can just get a hose/flange and aftermarket valve as well, no welding required. You can usually get these old kits for $400-600 depending on condition, but generally the pipes are a little hacked up and the core fins are a bit bent up.
The purpose of a front mount intercooler is to cool the hot air that the turbo pushes into the engine. Anytime you compress air you heat it. Hot air makes less power than cold air. It also is more likely to cause damaging engine ping/preignition which is what blows up boosted engines. An intercooler simply cools the air passing through it, so the more cool/ambient air you can expose the intercooler to, the better job it can do of cooling the air inside. More air hits the very nose of the car than goes through the tiny turbo II hood scoop, so putting an IC in the front makes it far more efficient.
i gotta buy a flange also. do u know wat the 2 holes on the pipe that go over the manifold are for?
also where does the 2 metal pipes go?
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Most people will be running the newer style greddy. It is actually made for jspec cars, meaning one of the pipes hits the lefthand drive cars' (ours) brake master cylinder, unless you do some trimming. When installing these in the past, I use big hose clamps from dryer vents around the brake master cylinder to hold the reservoir from getting disturbed by this pipe.
You also have to relocate your leading coil, and the pipe between the P/s pump and the strut tower basically barely fits after you wedge it in. When driving normally the engine's torque pushes it against this pipe, basically turning the pipe into an engine torque brace and transmitting vibration into the chassis from the engine. This kit works best on cars with removed P/s and a/c.
My problem with the greddy is that literally HALF of the massive core gets stuffed up inside the bumper and doesnt see much airflow. It's a huge waste, and probably hurts overall efficiency. I have NO IDEA why they felt the core needed to be so big, especially when most of it doesnt see any air unless you cut the front bumper to the point that it looks stupid. Seriously, the core mounts right under the hood latch.
Another problem I have with it is that the pipes prohibit you from keeping the (cool, in my opinion) series 5 fog lights, if you have them.
The new greddy kit costs about $950 new, or about 750 used when you can find them. You also have to buy an aftermarket BOV and a weld flange, and have it welded onto your pretty new piping, which I think is really gay. IF they can design the piping for a specific vehicle, they could just as easily pick an appropriate location for the BOV and put the damned flange on there for you.
I personally like the old school HKS kit where both pipes run on the passenger side of the car. It requires minimal cutting, the core sits further back and doesn't catch every little rock that flies up at it, and isn't so "bling bling, look at my FMIC" since it sits further back from the bumper. You dont even have to remove the bumper to install it...it just slides right up in there. You only have to cut one small hole in an obscure location for the piping. IT cools very well. The throttlebody elbow has 2 spots for additional injectors.
Trust/greddy made an old school kit similar to this, as did RE Amemiya. They are all basically teh same with small differences in pipe routing. The HKS, from what I recall, had a smaller nipple welded onto the pipes that allowed you to run the stock BOV if you wanted, or of course you can just get a hose/flange and aftermarket valve as well, no welding required. You can usually get these old kits for $400-600 depending on condition, but generally the pipes are a little hacked up and the core fins are a bit bent up.
The purpose of a front mount intercooler is to cool the hot air that the turbo pushes into the engine. Anytime you compress air you heat it. Hot air makes less power than cold air. It also is more likely to cause damaging engine ping/preignition which is what blows up boosted engines. An intercooler simply cools the air passing through it, so the more cool/ambient air you can expose the intercooler to, the better job it can do of cooling the air inside. More air hits the very nose of the car than goes through the tiny turbo II hood scoop, so putting an IC in the front makes it far more efficient.
You also have to relocate your leading coil, and the pipe between the P/s pump and the strut tower basically barely fits after you wedge it in. When driving normally the engine's torque pushes it against this pipe, basically turning the pipe into an engine torque brace and transmitting vibration into the chassis from the engine. This kit works best on cars with removed P/s and a/c.
My problem with the greddy is that literally HALF of the massive core gets stuffed up inside the bumper and doesnt see much airflow. It's a huge waste, and probably hurts overall efficiency. I have NO IDEA why they felt the core needed to be so big, especially when most of it doesnt see any air unless you cut the front bumper to the point that it looks stupid. Seriously, the core mounts right under the hood latch.
Another problem I have with it is that the pipes prohibit you from keeping the (cool, in my opinion) series 5 fog lights, if you have them.
The new greddy kit costs about $950 new, or about 750 used when you can find them. You also have to buy an aftermarket BOV and a weld flange, and have it welded onto your pretty new piping, which I think is really gay. IF they can design the piping for a specific vehicle, they could just as easily pick an appropriate location for the BOV and put the damned flange on there for you.
I personally like the old school HKS kit where both pipes run on the passenger side of the car. It requires minimal cutting, the core sits further back and doesn't catch every little rock that flies up at it, and isn't so "bling bling, look at my FMIC" since it sits further back from the bumper. You dont even have to remove the bumper to install it...it just slides right up in there. You only have to cut one small hole in an obscure location for the piping. IT cools very well. The throttlebody elbow has 2 spots for additional injectors.
Trust/greddy made an old school kit similar to this, as did RE Amemiya. They are all basically teh same with small differences in pipe routing. The HKS, from what I recall, had a smaller nipple welded onto the pipes that allowed you to run the stock BOV if you wanted, or of course you can just get a hose/flange and aftermarket valve as well, no welding required. You can usually get these old kits for $400-600 depending on condition, but generally the pipes are a little hacked up and the core fins are a bit bent up.
The purpose of a front mount intercooler is to cool the hot air that the turbo pushes into the engine. Anytime you compress air you heat it. Hot air makes less power than cold air. It also is more likely to cause damaging engine ping/preignition which is what blows up boosted engines. An intercooler simply cools the air passing through it, so the more cool/ambient air you can expose the intercooler to, the better job it can do of cooling the air inside. More air hits the very nose of the car than goes through the tiny turbo II hood scoop, so putting an IC in the front makes it far more efficient.
Burning up Time
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 805
Likes: 2
From: Earth
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
I personally like the old school HKS kit where both pipes run on the passenger side of the car. It requires minimal cutting, the core sits further back and doesn't catch every little rock that flies up at it, and isn't so "bling bling, look at my FMIC" since it sits further back from the bumper. You dont even have to remove the bumper to install it...it just slides right up in there. You only have to cut one small hole in an obscure location for the piping. IT cools very well. The throttlebody elbow has 2 spots for additional injectors.
Trust/greddy made an old school kit similar to this, as did RE Amemiya. They are all basically teh same with small differences in pipe routing. The HKS, from what I recall, had a smaller nipple welded onto the pipes that allowed you to run the stock BOV if you wanted, or of course you can just get a hose/flange and aftermarket valve as well, no welding required. You can usually get these old kits for $400-600 depending on condition, but generally the pipes are a little hacked up and the core fins are a bit bent up.
Trust/greddy made an old school kit similar to this, as did RE Amemiya. They are all basically teh same with small differences in pipe routing. The HKS, from what I recall, had a smaller nipple welded onto the pipes that allowed you to run the stock BOV if you wanted, or of course you can just get a hose/flange and aftermarket valve as well, no welding required. You can usually get these old kits for $400-600 depending on condition, but generally the pipes are a little hacked up and the core fins are a bit bent up.
Last edited by The Griffin; Oct 13, 2006 at 11:33 AM.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
I agree with RotaryResurrection about the Greddy kit. For a bolt in kit specifically designed for our cars, an aweful lot of modification needs to take place. 
Also, there is about 2 million feet of piping used which I'm sure has a negative effect on boost response.
With the availability of cheap intercoolers (via eBay) anyone with a little fabrication skill can easily make their own setup. And with that, choose where they run their pipe and how much of it to use.
My setup uses a 14x24x3 intercooler, positioned just under the hood latch, and runs the pipes through the rad supports:
I did have to modify the end tanks to get the pipes to exit at the appropriate angles which may not be possible as not everyone has access to a TIG welder.
There's only about 6 feet of piping total in this installation.
Also, there is about 2 million feet of piping used which I'm sure has a negative effect on boost response.With the availability of cheap intercoolers (via eBay) anyone with a little fabrication skill can easily make their own setup. And with that, choose where they run their pipe and how much of it to use.
My setup uses a 14x24x3 intercooler, positioned just under the hood latch, and runs the pipes through the rad supports:
I did have to modify the end tanks to get the pipes to exit at the appropriate angles which may not be possible as not everyone has access to a TIG welder.
There's only about 6 feet of piping total in this installation.
A-Spec FC-FMIC
^Don't mind the messed up bumper. I didn't put the holes in it... The privious owner decided to screw the license plate INTO the bumper... This will all be taken care of eventually.
^Don't mind the messed up bumper. I didn't put the holes in it... The privious owner decided to screw the license plate INTO the bumper... This will all be taken care of eventually.
Greddy.
Resurrection is right about the alterations to the piping, I ended up shaving about 2 inches off of the throttle inlet end of the IC pipe to clear my master cylinder. Plus having to cut the holes in the car, weld my damn BOV flange and have to design a shroud for the top of the intercooler that hides behind the bumper was a real pain. If I would have known what was available then I probably would have went a different route. Don't get me wrong, the kit is very nice quality and it cools just fine but I can't believe I spent that much.
Resurrection is right about the alterations to the piping, I ended up shaving about 2 inches off of the throttle inlet end of the IC pipe to clear my master cylinder. Plus having to cut the holes in the car, weld my damn BOV flange and have to design a shroud for the top of the intercooler that hides behind the bumper was a real pain. If I would have known what was available then I probably would have went a different route. Don't get me wrong, the kit is very nice quality and it cools just fine but I can't believe I spent that much.