Allright, what front Mounts do you guys have
10-17-06, 10:28 PM
#28
I used the Greddy piping and TB elbow from the kit (that everyone else has), but I used a 24x12x3 XS Power, Ebay core (like everyone else). 
So yeah, best of both worlds I suppose.
I paid like $150 for the core, and $150 for the Greddy piping. I got hooked up.
~Erik
So yeah, best of both worlds I suppose.
I paid like $150 for the core, and $150 for the Greddy piping. I got hooked up.
~Erik
10-18-06, 10:00 PM
#31
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i got mine in a trade. but it was an ebay brand, i dont know size but it has 2.75 pipping along with it. he tiold me he paid like 200 for the core and then like 75-80 for piping. that is with out shipping. .
10-23-06, 08:52 AM
#33
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Im running a Tanaka, bar and plate design, FMIC from Justin @ www.alienauto.com
I had my IC piping custom fabbed up by a local shop. IC pipes are now black to match the manifolds.
I had my IC piping custom fabbed up by a local shop. IC pipes are now black to match the manifolds.
10-26-06, 01:32 PM
#38
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warning on the ebay pipe kits:
I cant speak for everyone, but my kit that i just had installed was a aluminum pipe kit and came with silicone couplers and radiator clamps. after installation, the pipes blow off consistantly and is not only a pain but also an embarisment when my friends see me on the side of the road with the hood up, putting stuff back together. There a few ways to fix this, do what i'm doing and buy better couplers and t-bolt clamps, should do the trick. or get your pipes beaded. I'm having some 3 layer silicone coupler with t-bolt clamps sent to my house right now, i got a deal... 89.10 shipped (10 couplers and 20 clamps) it would normally cost you close to the same # for just the 20 clamps anywhere else.
I cant speak for everyone, but my kit that i just had installed was a aluminum pipe kit and came with silicone couplers and radiator clamps. after installation, the pipes blow off consistantly and is not only a pain but also an embarisment when my friends see me on the side of the road with the hood up, putting stuff back together. There a few ways to fix this, do what i'm doing and buy better couplers and t-bolt clamps, should do the trick. or get your pipes beaded. I'm having some 3 layer silicone coupler with t-bolt clamps sent to my house right now, i got a deal... 89.10 shipped (10 couplers and 20 clamps) it would normally cost you close to the same # for just the 20 clamps anywhere else.
10-27-06, 08:09 AM
#42
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
My problem with the greddy is that literally HALF of the massive core gets stuffed up inside the bumper and doesnt see much airflow. It's a huge waste, and probably hurts overall efficiency. I have NO IDEA why they felt the core needed to be so big, especially when most of it doesnt see any air unless you cut the front bumper to the point that it looks stupid. Seriously, the core mounts right under the hood latch.
Ideally, you'd want to duct all of the incoming air into the IC core, but that'll just *** to the cost / price.
People willing to pay for it?
I doubt it - they are already balking at almost $1,000 for the price of the kit itself.
Corky Bell goes into a rule-of-thumb about 1/4 opening for the full IC core area.
The FC should be able to hold to that rule.
The IC is basically a huge heatsink.
The more metal...the better...
Sure, the design is not ideal, but I don't think it's that big of a deal that you make it out to be.
Look at the FD unit?
The FD has a SMALLER front bumper opening!
Finally, I think economics plays a little into this.
The 24V / 24R core is a basic dimension core, and it's used for other applications.
Cutting the cores down just to fit into the FC opening would've meant more production cost on Trust / GReddy's end of things.
The old GReddy FMIC kit was about the same price as the new 24R / 24V kits!
So why is would the new kits with significantly bigger IC cores cost the same?
Production costs were lowered...
-Ted
11-01-06, 10:57 PM
#46
what I dont like about 99% of intercoolers most kits are HUGE. As Kevin said, most of the bumper blocks it. I have a smaller core, will easily handle 400+hp. I mounted it back near the radiator, and higher, this enable me to get sufficent air to the radiator, and still get air to the whole intercooler. The oil cooler I relocated to the front bumper where the trim would be a cut out a section, so any air that passes through the oil cooler, will also go to the intercooler and radiator, even though it will be warmer, its still some air flow.
11-02-06, 01:51 AM
#47
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I've never seen that CP Racing strut bar until now...
Sorry to say that thing looks like CRAP, and it looks like some 3rd grader managed to design and weld that thing.
No wonder it's so cheap...
For someone who spent a decent amount of money on their FC, I'm suprised you got cheap with that bar?
Sorry for the OT.
-Ted
Sorry to say that thing looks like CRAP, and it looks like some 3rd grader managed to design and weld that thing.
No wonder it's so cheap...
For someone who spent a decent amount of money on their FC, I'm suprised you got cheap with that bar?
Sorry for the OT.
-Ted
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