all 4 calipers locking up
06-11-16, 03:31 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
all 4 calipers locking up
yet another problem lol! never had a brake problem with the car but now they lock up after a few minutes. I even tried bleeding them so barely any pressure was applied with the pedal all the way down and after a bit the pedal was rock hard. it seems like there is some play in the pedal. what should I check next? the MC looks brand new but looks can be deceiving and I don't think all 4 calipers could have seized or had 4 collapsed hoses for each caliper
06-11-16, 07:05 AM
#2
its 30 years old, replace the system. its what i do. you can rebuild the calipers. but you have to hone the rust out of them, sometimes they are so rusty, not salvagble.. this is the difference in finding an rx7 that still is drive able, and one is blow and been sitting in someones yard. even if the drivable one is blown, it can still be tested for brakes/ suspention, tranmissiom noises, diff noises....
a car not running and just sitting could have nothing good on it but the body, and that aint worth squat.
a car not running and just sitting could have nothing good on it but the body, and that aint worth squat.
Last edited by lastphaseofthis; 06-11-16 at 07:11 AM.
06-11-16, 01:08 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
well this is weird... ever since my brakes got messed up my clutch seems to be grabbing at the WAY bottom like if I move it a MM Itll start grabbing it never did that it used to grab up more and now it's super squishy
06-11-16, 01:40 PM
#5
Red Pill Dealer
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This may be a longshot but, has the car been swapped from an auto to a manual? Maybe the pedal bracket has come loose?
06-11-16, 03:22 PM
#7
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would make sense but nope cars a 100% stock 70k mile old lady owned car lol wouldn't of imagined this many problems but hey makes you smarter :p and the hydro clutch fluid is full. does yours grab at the way bottom? like its no grabbing but I move it a tad and it starts idk if that's how these cars are all my cars were cable clutch
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06-11-16, 03:31 PM
#9
Red Pill Dealer
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I don't understand the brake clutch combo problem. There's more to the story, I grabbed like, the only thing that could affect both. You're just going to have to go through it.
06-11-16, 03:39 PM
#10
its easy to comprehend, the car has probably been sitting for who knows how many years, the rubber seals are dry rotted and compromised. in many cases the brakes and clutch masters will work intermittently and then bypass sometimes before failing completely.
my clutch master likes to do this, where randomly it will suck in air and become squishy and actuate at the floor until i bleed the air out then it may go months or years before doing it again.
my clutch master likes to do this, where randomly it will suck in air and become squishy and actuate at the floor until i bleed the air out then it may go months or years before doing it again.
06-11-16, 04:15 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
its easy to comprehend, the car has probably been sitting for who knows how many years, the rubber seals are dry rotted and compromised. in many cases the brakes and clutch masters will work intermittently and then bypass sometimes before failing completely.
my clutch master likes to do this, where randomly it will suck in air and become squishy and actuate at the floor until i bleed the air out then it may go months or years before doing it again.
my clutch master likes to do this, where randomly it will suck in air and become squishy and actuate at the floor until i bleed the air out then it may go months or years before doing it again.
06-11-16, 04:35 PM
#12
Red Pill Dealer
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Learn how to bleed brakes. I'm sure there is a youtube video on it.
06-11-16, 04:46 PM
#13
You mentioned earlier that the brake master "looked new" and may have been recently replaced (I assume you just got this car and have no history)...so try this:
Is the car off the wheels and the brakes are locked?
If so, unbolt the master cylinder from the booster, in fact, you needn't remove the two nuts entirely, just enough that the cylinder is free of the booster push rod.
Did the brakes release?
The booster pushrod could be too long (it's adjustable) and always pressing on the cylinder piston.
Is the car off the wheels and the brakes are locked?
If so, unbolt the master cylinder from the booster, in fact, you needn't remove the two nuts entirely, just enough that the cylinder is free of the booster push rod.
Did the brakes release?
The booster pushrod could be too long (it's adjustable) and always pressing on the cylinder piston.
06-11-16, 04:47 PM
#14
i dont know if you even have a brake problem according to your description.
how are you feeling the brakes locking up? is it because the pedal feels stiff? the pedal will be stiff with the engine off. if the pedal is stiff with the engine running then your brake booster isn't getting vacuum or is faulty.
how are you feeling the brakes locking up? is it because the pedal feels stiff? the pedal will be stiff with the engine off. if the pedal is stiff with the engine running then your brake booster isn't getting vacuum or is faulty.
06-11-16, 05:15 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
i dont know if you even have a brake problem according to your description.
how are you feeling the brakes locking up? is it because the pedal feels stiff? the pedal will be stiff with the engine off. if the pedal is stiff with the engine running then your brake booster isn't getting vacuum or is faulty.
how are you feeling the brakes locking up? is it because the pedal feels stiff? the pedal will be stiff with the engine off. if the pedal is stiff with the engine running then your brake booster isn't getting vacuum or is faulty.
pressing the brake pedal it eventually gets rock hard and all 4 calipers are locked from the pressure not being released I already tested it I jacked the car up while it was locked and couldn't spin the front and it was hard to spin the back by hand. only way I can break them free is if I lose. the bleeder valve and let the fluid come out. with the car running if I press the brake pedal fast the car idles horribly and almost dies so that has to be something with the vacuum line. I removed the line and checked for suction and theres a lot of it
06-11-16, 06:56 PM
#16
if your idle is low pumping the pedal will cause the RPMs to drop, that's rather normal but it sounds like the car is running lean if it is stumbling while doing it.
for the hard pedal issue, you may have air in the lines and a misadjusted pedal rod like clokker was mentioning. when the brakes warm up the air expands and can potentially cause the calipers to seem like they are freezing up.
for the hard pedal issue, you may have air in the lines and a misadjusted pedal rod like clokker was mentioning. when the brakes warm up the air expands and can potentially cause the calipers to seem like they are freezing up.
06-11-16, 11:46 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
if your idle is low pumping the pedal will cause the RPMs to drop, that's rather normal but it sounds like the car is running lean if it is stumbling while doing it.
for the hard pedal issue, you may have air in the lines and a misadjusted pedal rod like clokker was mentioning. when the brakes warm up the air expands and can potentially cause the calipers to seem like they are freezing up.
for the hard pedal issue, you may have air in the lines and a misadjusted pedal rod like clokker was mentioning. when the brakes warm up the air expands and can potentially cause the calipers to seem like they are freezing up.
06-11-16, 11:54 PM
#18
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If you are up to it..Try this..it will take you about ONE minute.(I'm curious to see what will happen on this)
Walk over to the Brake BOOSTER..
..see the Rubber hose going Off the brake booster to the Steel line that goes across the Firewall???
It is "S" shaped..
Disconnect that hose..Take it right OFF..now..FLIP IT..(so that the hose's direction is now "reversed")..
Put the hose on and try the brakes.
IF it remains the same then I am thinking that the problem lies in the checkvalve located IN the hose.
IF it Changes then your hose was installed backwards.
(SO if it works OK after swapping the hose direction then Leave it alone..!)
Walk over to the Brake BOOSTER..
..see the Rubber hose going Off the brake booster to the Steel line that goes across the Firewall???
It is "S" shaped..
Disconnect that hose..Take it right OFF..now..FLIP IT..(so that the hose's direction is now "reversed")..
Put the hose on and try the brakes.
IF it remains the same then I am thinking that the problem lies in the checkvalve located IN the hose.
IF it Changes then your hose was installed backwards.
(SO if it works OK after swapping the hose direction then Leave it alone..!)
06-12-16, 01:15 AM
#19
Full Member
Thread Starter
If you are up to it..Try this..it will take you about ONE minute.(I'm curious to see what will happen on this)
Walk over to the Brake BOOSTER..
..see the Rubber hose going Off the brake booster to the Steel line that goes across the Firewall???
It is "S" shaped..
Disconnect that hose..Take it right OFF..now..FLIP IT..(so that the hose's direction is now "reversed")..
Put the hose on and try the brakes.
IF it remains the same then I am thinking that the problem lies in the checkvalve located IN the hose.
IF it Changes then your hose was installed backwards.
(SO if it works OK after swapping the hose direction then Leave it alone..!)
Walk over to the Brake BOOSTER..
..see the Rubber hose going Off the brake booster to the Steel line that goes across the Firewall???
It is "S" shaped..
Disconnect that hose..Take it right OFF..now..FLIP IT..(so that the hose's direction is now "reversed")..
Put the hose on and try the brakes.
IF it remains the same then I am thinking that the problem lies in the checkvalve located IN the hose.
IF it Changes then your hose was installed backwards.
(SO if it works OK after swapping the hose direction then Leave it alone..!)
06-12-16, 10:00 PM
#23
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
Jeezus Christ Breanne.
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