iceblue

Is it worth getting an alignment with blown struts?

Trying to avoid rapid ware of new tires.

Stock 5lug system on 205x40xr17

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

yes, it'll get the tires all even with the position the struts sit in, and it'll help the wear, but you'll need to redo it once you get good struts again.

iceblue

Thank you bro. That is what I wantd to know.

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

Why not buy some struts, are they worn or are they actually blown? If they're blown and cost is an issue, why not buy a set of used ones as a temporary measure?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yeah i would suggest holding off on doing the alignment until you get them replaced, the strut tower plates need to go back in in their original clocked position or the alignment measurements will change.

baby doll

They are really warn, 143k on them. I have to many other things that have to be done to the car. A full/complete suspension system will be done. I would like to get every part I need then put it on car at one time.

I still need exhaust really bad. Last compression check before car was driven allot was 75F and 100R. If the front hasn’t climbed any a rebuild will be needed soon.

I don't want to ware my tires bad and have to replace them to when the above needs to be done as well. I will end up out of money and car sitting broke in driveway. I really want my body kit and paint. I want everyone to know it is a girl that owns it.

ian99rt

iTrader: (7)

Yeah you should not get an alignment with bad struts , you should get new struts then an alignment. Bad shocks cause excesive tire wear just as badly as being out of alignment.

The Count say: "1, 2, 3, 4 yes 4 new shocks please, wa ha ha ha ha".

baby doll

I do not think you are correct. Warn struts just fubar your ride and handling up. The reason it was being asked is to see if it is possible to bring the alignment into specs with warn struts, as well to see if the struts will force the car quickly out of alignment. This being a factored question as a FC only allows the front camber to be adjusted around 0.5 degrees wile the rear allows zero adjustment. There is zero caster control as well.

RETed

Unless your alignment it REALLY bad (i.e. excessive tire wear or nasty pulling to one side), don't bother.
It is recommended to wait till you replace the worn components before trying to get your alignment done.

Worn / blown shocks can allow the car to sit lower, so that, in itself, will cause the alignment to change once the shocks are replaced.

A replacement set of Tokico HP's non-adjustables is just about $300 shipped.
There is no excuse not to take care of them.
Since you got new tires, why would you risk premature wear cause you didn't want to fix your shocks (and alignment) right away?


-Ted

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Worn shocks or struts can cause scalloping of the tires. The 2 together make for a miserable ride and constant vibration.

Find some cheap used tires and replace the struts first. It will be cheaper in the long run.

Tournapart

iTrader: (4)

300 is alot of money, in my world, lol

inflatablepets

That's the price you have to pay if you want to play. Get a bicycle. Or at least a non-sports car. I don't understand how you guys don't insist on having the car in perfect (or close to) mechanical condition. Blown struts are also a safety issue, causing longer braking times unsafe bouncing of the car etc... I rethought this and the only conclusion i can come up with, is that the FC is probably many peoples daily driver on this forum. I've driven old worn out junk and can honestly say, I always want 2 vehicles at my disposal. 1, my DD a late model truck, 2, the FC.

Now to offer help, or addvice if you will. I agree with what someone else suggested, used tires until you have to get the struts replaced. Hell, you can have a couple free ones (tires) if you come over and pick 'em up.

Tournapart

iTrader: (4)

ok so although 300 is alot of money in my world, when i sense something going wrong or wearing out i have time to save to purchase the parts, i also have money saved for that exact reason, so when i say 300 is alot of money it is to me, but i have it covered

JamesBong

here's a couple for ya, if you don't mind eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...982682331&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...982683190&rd=1

Here's the search I used:
http://motors.search.ebay.com/RX-7-R...885Q29QQsotrZ2

I'm running the Tokiko blues and I really like them, but I've heard that the KYB's are just as good.

iceblue

My out look is. If am going to do something on her car I want to do it the right way. It is her DD and have to consider it. And there is so much that needs to be done it is hard to choose what one to do first. So when I do the suspention I want to do evrything the right way. I am up for sugestions on the struts of choice. But I will do the struts springs toe eliminators sway bars all new bushings uper sway bars front caster controlls and rear camber adjuster. Other thing is I cringe at doing something twice lol like to get under there and do evrything at one time.

It will take me 2.5 months to have the money to do all this to her car.

I think I am going to go with the idea of use old rims and tires and order struts for now. Take about 1 months. What struts do you recomend? Remember I want to do it right.

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

What is "do it right?" The KYB GR2s are stock replacements. Does the car need to have above stock performance? If not than it simpfies your choices. Things like sway bars are final tuning peices when you've improved the suspension. Most of the stuff you've mentioned isn't a matter of doing it right, you're talking about chaning the car for performance purposes.

iceblue

Doing it right to me is not taking any short cuts on the upgrades. I want good struts I was looking at the tokico illuminas RB suspention package cork sport duel rear adjuster when its released and the toe eliminators, all new bushings.

Meaning not replaceing with stock struts and calling it a job well done. The car allways being upgrade for performance, it is a sports car why wouldent you? It is around 235bhp right now.

ilike2eatricers

If you get a shock and spring combo you wont really need the rear camber adjusters or even front camber plates for that matter (most spings wont lower the car enough to warrant them IMO). Like said above swaybars and DTSS bushings are things you dont really need that you can always do later. If you're planning to get all of the suspension parts at once it'll be a large sum of money and it will be hard to tell where the most improvement came from. That's why many people take modding their cars in gradual steps to gauge improvements and to determine if the money spent for each upgrade was worthwhile. Of course there are exceptions such as turbo upgrades that require various upgraded parts but we're talking about suspension here.

jhammons01

Go to sears and get a lifetime warrantee on your alignment. Then get your shocks and take it back....then take it back again, then take it back again.

RETed

If you can't afford to maintain the car, then you shouldn't be owning it.
Sorry to be blunt, but a lot of people get into FC's and find out it's too much of a headache.
Keep in mind that the car is approaching *20* years for some models.
Things are going to break.
Things are going to fail.
I tell potential buyers that have at LEAST $1,000 budgeted to fix stupid things on the car when you buy a used one.


-Ted