bought a 87 with the intakes off and the air pump off.
i have searched, but i need a visual understanding to go off of.

Do i need to put the removed actuator things and air pump back on the engine? it will be na with a tubular exhaust, safc, and intake.

 

That depends on if you want the actuators to work or not. Some people like them, others don't care. I have removed mine and removed the sleeves as well and i am fine with it. Sluggish in the lower RPMs yes, but driveable in the city, and most of my driving is in the city.

If your going to run a different exhaust other than stock or stock aftermarket replacement, leave the 5th/6th port actuators off along with the air pump.

Now if you ha e to pass emissions where you live, than you ha e no choice but to hook everyghing back up to stock because you won't pass smog

 

S4 actuators use exhaust back pressure. Not air pump.

 

iduley, this is why I always like your responses, you point out the pros and cons to doing something instead of what a lot of others do. It's nice to see something besides "take off the aux and vdi, gain eleventy hundred moar horsies"!

 

I lurk here alot and have done a TON of research on here before i do something to my car. So pretty much all the info i provide, is from READING

But thanks, i know what its like, been working with the general public for 10 years plus, i've learned what to, and ehag not to say through the years lol

But, i can say, the ole butt dyno did notice a difference when i did mine, but i also ported my intakes, and had a stuck sleeve, so i expected a difference anyways

 

thanks a ton!

also, since i started a thread, is there any drawback to not tying the primaries of the exhausts together? I'm intrigued as to what an exhaust would sound like if you had each primary on its own back to the dual bumper slots

 

You don't need the aux port actuators, but there is no advantage in removing them, and doing so will cause the car to accelerate slower. Most people tend to modify their car to make it faster, not slower. No way in hell would I ever do this to my street car. However, to each his own.

Fancy sleeves for the aux port actuators are available from Pineapple Racing:
6-Port Sleeve Inserts (Pair) & pins(2)

As explained earlier, the main point of the air pump is to pass emissions testing. If you don't care about this, then it is OK to remove it, although there is no significant performance advantage to doing so. However, one downside to running without the air pump is that the water pump / alternator belt will tend to slip. This can be fixed with a "Yoohoo" belt from Pineapple Racing. You could also use a double sheave pulley, but most of them are sized to underdrive the alternator, which is horrible for a street car. The other downside is that removing the air pump will disable the anti-afterburn system, which will result in exhaust popping ("backfiring") noises when decelerating. It doesn't hurt anything, but girls will look at you funny. If girls look at you funny already, then you have nothing to lose, lol.
Yoohoo Belt

It would sound like the Racing Beat "Road/Race" exhaust system. Road Race Exhaust System for 86-88 RX-7 Non-turbo - Racing Beat

My favorite custom NA exhaust is a "long primary" collected exhaust system. See this link for dimensions. Contrary to popular belief, primary pipes that are larger in diameter than recommended will result in more noise and less power, so try to stick to the guidance.
Rotary Tech Tips: Exhaust System Configurations

Be sure to use good thick-walled pipe and mufflers that are compatible with rotary engines (Racing Beat, Apexi, Borla, HKS, GReddy, or Rotary Performance). The best overall material is 321 stainless, but 304 stainless or mild steel will work if you are on a budget. The header flange needs to be at least 1/2" thick, and you can buy them pre-made from Racing Beat or Mazdatrix. If you want to see how it's supposed to be done, look at the 2-rotor exhaust pics at the Defined Autoworks website.
DEFINED AUTOWORKS

 

spectacular post, thanks!

I'm a stainless tig welder/fitter, so I have some nice 316L plans. I think I will see what it sounds like with not collecting, and letting the rotors keep their own pipe flange to bumper