AHHHHHH...HELP...I think I blew a rotor!
AHHHHHH...HELP...I think I blew a rotor!
I'm not positive but I was driving as I normally do down a highway yesterday, switched gears, and all of a sudden got a huge stall and my car was ridin real rough. I pulled over and checked what was wrong and a belt was broke so I figured that's what the problem was....as it turns out, the mechanic (who claims he's been working on mazdas since the mid 80's) thinks one of my rotors went flat but he isn't sure. They are going to run diagnostic tests tomorrow to see what's wrong and that's gonna cost me $130 alone
hmmm...
Rotor went flat???....ummm....ok...sure
I don't see how a rotor can become "flat"
I can see maybe an apex seal stuck or smushed into the rotor housing causing loss of compression and possibly scraping (if the apex seal jammed into the rotor housing, chances are the engine wouldn't even run).
But I do not think a rotor can go "flat"
Get him to put the belt back on, if it still runs like *** then get a compression test done. That will let you know for sure.
btw...which belt? Alternator? Power steering? Air Pump?
I don't see how a rotor can become "flat"
I can see maybe an apex seal stuck or smushed into the rotor housing causing loss of compression and possibly scraping (if the apex seal jammed into the rotor housing, chances are the engine wouldn't even run).
But I do not think a rotor can go "flat"
Get him to put the belt back on, if it still runs like *** then get a compression test done. That will let you know for sure.
btw...which belt? Alternator? Power steering? Air Pump?
Last edited by PraxRX7; Jun 11, 2002 at 12:21 PM.
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It's an 88 FC (SE)...never really had problems with it before. It has 133000 miles on it. In great shape. I will say this though...I did leave the oil cap off after I changed it cause I forgot to put it back on but I highly doubt that did anything. I figured it was the belt only but apparently the mechanic doesn't think so. What else would ya like to know about it?
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Puerto Rico Land Of The Fastest Rotaries
It sounds like a bent or broken Apex Seal(s) problem. If the car starts and sounds like a V6 at low rpm and sounds better around 3000 rpm you need to do surgery. The problem will most likely be on the rear of the engine. If you got no broken apex seals when you open the engine look at the corner piece side of the seal, if you see a diffrence in color (not evenly colored by combustion) your Apex Seals are bent... This is the most common consequence of leanning at some point, it does not even have to happen the same day. I really hope I'm wrong man!!!!
Prax.. You can drop your cat theory...
Just because the airpump ceased to work due to a broken belt does not mean that his cat would spontaniously melt into one large glob .. It would eventually destroy itself over time, as was mentioned by Tony..
Just because the airpump ceased to work due to a broken belt does not mean that his cat would spontaniously melt into one large glob .. It would eventually destroy itself over time, as was mentioned by Tony..
It was riding real rough and sounded like a lloud awn mower
IF it does turn out to be engine problems I can probably get you an engine rebuilt for $1000 or so, give or take, so keep that in mind as well...dont junk it out or sell it just because of engine problems. Feel free to contact me if I can help...hypntyz@charter.net
I seriously doubt that by "flat" he really MEANT "FLAT".
C'mon guys.
now, to PAY $130 is the issue here.
I cant understand why your doing that.
Just remove your trailing plugs, pull the EGI fuse, and turn over the engine for a few secondss.
If it sounds like a galloping horse, then you dumped an Apex seal.
Now,
replace the front trailing plug, turn the engine.
Note the sound
Remove the font and replace the rear trailing plug, turn the engine.
One rotor will sound different from the other.
This will tell you if you have a blown motor.
$1200, and you should get a very nice low mie replacement installed complete.
Not a BIG deal, but not what you want to hear if you can avoid it.
C'mon guys.
now, to PAY $130 is the issue here.
I cant understand why your doing that.
Just remove your trailing plugs, pull the EGI fuse, and turn over the engine for a few secondss.
If it sounds like a galloping horse, then you dumped an Apex seal.
Now,
replace the front trailing plug, turn the engine.
Note the sound
Remove the font and replace the rear trailing plug, turn the engine.
One rotor will sound different from the other.
This will tell you if you have a blown motor.
$1200, and you should get a very nice low mie replacement installed complete.
Not a BIG deal, but not what you want to hear if you can avoid it.
I assume you know everything involved in a turbo II swap?
http://hypntyz.rx7life.com read turbo conversions 1 and 2 to get an idea of what youre getting into.
IF youre thinking instead of converting your NA engine to turbo duty, check out aaron's install links at the top of the 2nd gen section for what's necessary to make that work as well.
http://hypntyz.rx7life.com read turbo conversions 1 and 2 to get an idea of what youre getting into.
IF youre thinking instead of converting your NA engine to turbo duty, check out aaron's install links at the top of the 2nd gen section for what's necessary to make that work as well.
Good info from Kevin.
The swap is in no way hard. When I bought my car last year, it needed an engine. Needless to say, i was pretty sure I couldnt swap one, but I did.
There are many parts needed, listed on the site above.
You could do a true swap, or simply turbocharge your car.
It might be cheaper to get a TII with a blown motor, and save yourself the time involved with hunting for TII drivetrain parts/installing them, and a little money.
Its your call.
The swap is in no way hard. When I bought my car last year, it needed an engine. Needless to say, i was pretty sure I couldnt swap one, but I did.
There are many parts needed, listed on the site above.
You could do a true swap, or simply turbocharge your car.
It might be cheaper to get a TII with a blown motor, and save yourself the time involved with hunting for TII drivetrain parts/installing them, and a little money.
Its your call.
Well the guy said if it was a new engine, to get a factory installed new engine from mazda it would cost $3500. I was gonna ask if it does actually turn out to be that I need a new one, how much a turbo install would be. If it's not too much more I'm thinking about doing it.
Oh and get this, the guy that was suppose to run the tests today called in sick, so now I wont know untill tomorrow. Apparently these are quote "sophisticated" engines and they only have one guy that works on them.
Oh and get this, the guy that was suppose to run the tests today called in sick, so now I wont know untill tomorrow. Apparently these are quote "sophisticated" engines and they only have one guy that works on them.


