JCurry

iTrader: (6)

well my stock metal oil feed line for my 89 TII is all bent up and very hard to get into place...is there anywhere that sells a aftermarked turbo oil feed line that bolts to the top of the turbo and has a banjo fitting on the other end so it can go into the stock place on the block?? I found one on ebay for the hitachi 18s but it dosent say too much about it...

thanx

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

i tried to find one when i did my swap and all that i came up with is anything other than oem will have to be made. but if you need one pm me. ive got one thats in perfect condition

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

thanx...i would rather have one that is flexable because i always seem to have problems fitting them after i take my turbo out or something....

here is the one on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo...Q5fAccessories

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

that looks like it should work, but first id do to your local parts store and see about getting a custom one made before making the ebay gamble.

afpreppie04

iTrader: (5)

You could make one yourself with some braided stainless. You need an adapter to change the threads on the front iron, then just run -4an line to the turbo. Since you have the turbo off anyway just take it to your local speed shop and get the plate that fits.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

not a local speed shop within 1 and a half hours from me...so i would prefer mail order lol

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

himni racing

http://himni-racing.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=1018

The Himni Racing Stainless Steel Braided 'Stock FC Turbo' Mazda RX-7, Turbo Oil Feed Line Kit is for use with the OEM turbo found on the 87-92 Mazda FC RX-7. Direct bolt-on (pick the engine being used from the menu) Our RX-7 oil feed kits are top of the line with a Teflon coated core that insures a long life & superior oil resistance. Kit Includes Everything needed::: -4 SS line with ends, Inlet Flange, gasket, bolts & all required fittings. Allows you to utilize the stock turbo oil feed port in the front housing & even uses the stock bolt & copper washers. A very clean, leak free fit at any pressure you throw at it. Replaces the whole stock line, quickly and easily.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

any idea how long that line is^^? i emailed the sellers of the one on ebay they said theres is 27.5in...which i think is a bit too long i would bet

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

if himini is selling it trust it, dont trust a ebay one unless the seller is a reputable rotary shop

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

ya himini is a reputable shop..but money is tight these days so 35 bucks shipped vs 80+ shipped looks good...i might give them a try just too see if it is a cheaper option...thanx for the responses

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

there is a big price difference, I noticed the ebay one does not specify stainless steel, this seems to be where the price difference might weigh in

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

The Ebay one doesn't say it is Teflon coated either. Why buy an aftermarket setup if you want to go cheap on it.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

its is stainless and teflon coated...ive emailed them serveral times...they respond back usually within the hour...

oakback

You could try calling around to local hydraulic shops, usually if you bring the old line in they can make a new SS line for you, many times they're cheaper than online (no shipping and same-day service is nice, too).

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

ok i got my line in and everything fits up fine and the length is just right...only thing i have a question about is. The adaptor that bolts ontop of the turbo where the oil line fastens too only has a hole in it about the size of the end of a pen. Is this done on purpose to act as a restrictor or should i drill it out to make it bigger?? because the stock hard line is way bigger where it bolts to the top of the turbo..

thanx

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

unfortunately they also are very slow at getting out even simple parts.

sounds like a restrictor, the stock turbo has the restrictor inside the turbo on the feed side so it's doubling up which could be bad.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Is the oil inlet, on the stock turbo, internally threaded? If so, what're the specs?

On my Project, I'm using a Lamco adapter that's tapped and threaded (1/4") to a -10AN line and waiting on the turbo-side adapter (STILL). If it's threaded, I can call and cancel the CNC project and just get the line to supply.

Any help, here?

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

I ran into a similar situation with the 20b twin turbos as mine only had the hardline that split the supply to both turbos. After lots of googling for metric to NPT adapters, I gave up and changed gears to AN, finding that the Mitsubishi 3000GT/Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo guys have the EXACT same problem: M14x1.5 Male fitting on the hardline. The solution to it was at Jegs, listed here.

Hardline M14x1.5 to AN6 adapter fitting, Part# ERL-9894DBH, $11.99
Block M14x1.5 to AN6 adapter fitting, Part# 361-991954, $6.99
5ft of Jegs Push-Loc AN06 hose in red, Part# 555-102110, $12.99
Jegs Push-loc AN06 straight fitting, Part# 555-100051 $3.99
Jegs Push-loc AN06 90 degree fitting, Part# 555-100071 $9.99

Since the FC's Turbo oil supply port is M16x1.5 female (tested on my spare S4 turbocharger), you'll need Aeroquip #023-FCM2608 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeroquip/023/FCM2608/10002/-1) instead of the $11.99 adapter.

They make the hose in Red, Blue, Yellow, Gray and Black, from AN04 to AN10, and the fittings in Red/Blue, Nickel and Black finishes. That'll be handy when I redo all the underhood plumbing, color coded for each application. 5 feet of the hose is more than enough for this project. For my 20b turbos, I'll only need about 20" of it, so the rest can be reused for another project down the road. And best of all, the fittings are reusable too.

You might not need the 90 degree fitting, but I'd get one just in case you need the extra room around the LIM. I thought it'd be used at the block, but the straight one wouldn't clear the water pump where it meets the hardline on the twins

Also, I'd recommend picking up one of these nifty adapters too: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/100526/10002/-1. It's a cheap way to add a 1/8" NPT port to the oil system for a proper oil pressure gauge. Beyond that, all your fitting needs can be taken care of at Lowes/Menards/Home Depot. And when you buy a plug for it, make sure it's a hex head. Square heads strip easier, as we all know from the transmission fill plug

PS. Harbor Freight has an infinitely useful Oil Pressure test set (http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-...kit-98949.html) The fittings alone are worth more than the gauge, especially the 28-BPST to 1/8" NPT one. Very handy for figuring out what threads are in the block when you don't have a bolt or plug that size

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

I did not have that problem the 2 times I ordered from them

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

So, today I got the final bits to do this same task... Here's what I've got:

Solid Billet slug (2.25" x 1" x 3/8") +/- $5.00;
XRP Teflon line (XRP #640048 - Straight -4 to Straight 48" Hose Assembly > 3000psi) +/- $30.00;
XRP Straight Fitting (XRP # 981604 - Adapter, #4 Flare- 1/8" NPT) +/- $5.00;
Precision Performance 45° fitting (-4 AN- 1/8" NPT) +/- $10.00.

Add-in the tapping & threading (Lamco adapter and billet slug) and tax, and it equals out to about 57 bucks.... Basically it's the same from Rob's post (#7), minus the banjo fitting on the right-hand side. Since my project is an NA-T, my front iron isn't equipped with the receptor for that banjo.

Here's how I went about it:

Wednesday, I took my turbo and my Lamco adapter in to a place (Rollins Automotive) and got the latter T&T to fit the straight-fitting, and the billet piece.

Thursday morning, I replaced both the turbo and the Lamco and measured, with a piece of string, the distance from it, to the turbo (which, with a good deal of slack, came out to 48"; trekking back, across the firewall and to the oil-feed, on the turbo).

I then took the turbo BACK off and, using some oil, put it on the oil-feed flange, on the center housing, of the turbo, and pressed the billet slug onto it, there-by marking the holes (two bolt holes and supply hole).

Taking a Sharpie, I then marked the holes, more permanent and took it BACK to the shop, taking one of the bolts with me for diameter reference.

I had it drilled through, for the mounting bolts and had it tapped and threaded for the 45° fitting.

The whole process (minus the 20 minute drive, one-way) took about an hour.

After I test fit everything, I'm going to take the billet adapter BACK off and make it a little more pretty (since it IS just a wafer of solid billet aluminum.

If wanted, I'll be happy to take pics of the parts, the individual bits, connected, and/ or the final.

I must say, it DOES look pretty crispy!

Since that shop is like a candy-store - and me being the proverbial KID, in it - I had to seriously hold off on buying all kinds of stuff... Luckily it's a HOT ROD (read: domestic muscle) shop, so the imports don't have much shelf-space there.

I DID find a BAD-*** pair of wheels and tires for $100 for the pair (16x6), and came DAMNED close to walking out with them... If I hadn't had the foresight to verify their bolt-pattern...

Of course they would be in a CHEVY 5-lug pattern NOT the 5x4.25, Ford/ Nissan/ Mazda/ etc.

GRRR!!!! *shakesfist*

One of the employees said he'd've taken my wheels from me, if they were wider... Damn I hate my wheels.

SOMEONE SAVE ME FROM "Ugly-Wheel" MADNESS!!!


Please!?

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Here're a couple of pics from my adventure:

Turbo w/ new feed line. You can see the new line, fitting and billet adapter, in this:



Engine frontal. You can see the new, shiney, feed-line, snaking across from the Lamco adapter, to the turbo-side.


All-in-all, it looks pretty good!