I came across a set of replacement hatch lift struts that fit an RX7 from a company called Lift Supports Deport that I ordered. They are about a 1/4 of the price of a replacement set of OE struts (with shipping, it's about $70 total).

Lift Supports

Two things you should know about them.
1. They open the hatch about an inch lower than stock, but makes no real-world difference.
2. The strut-to-body bolt covers don't fit. You might be able to trim the covers to snap in place.

Installation went without a hitch--I was able to do it alone using my body to hold the hatch up replacing one side at a time. One old support does not hold up the hatch, but you can still lift it. Once you have one new strut installed, it'll hold up the hatch on its own.

You will need a 12mm wrench, a 7/16" wrench or deep well socket, and a 12MM socket to install it.

Once the new struts are installed, open and close the hatch a few times to work the struts. Then, you should be able to smoothly close the hatch and using the hatch release or key will pop the hatch open fully.

 

Nice to kno thanks

 

You mean that when you unlatch it, it'll open itself up fully? No more having to stick my bottle opener keychain in the gap to pry it up with my fingers, and then having it slam on my head any time it's below 75 F outside? HM...I'm guessing you can't use the light anymore though, right? Not that it actually lights anything up anyways but maybe i just need a new lens...

 

do all fc's do this, i thought it was just mine. my hatch doesn't sag even in the dead of winter, but the hatch release only opens it far enough to wedge my pinky under. i've just gotten into the habit of pooping the hatch then shutting my drivers door so that the pressure pushes the hatch up

 

I just grab the rear wiper and lift.

 

Way to do it

 

Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying.

This is an FC being tested by old Top Gear in the 1980s. Look for yourself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMD-3VtMEq0
2:13 in and you can see for yourself.

 

Oh, I forgot.

Yes, you can transfer the hatch light and wiring over to the new hatch strut. The wires are held to the old strut with non-adhesive tape. All you have to do is cut it off and the wires come off. Then, using either regular electrical tape or silicone self-adhesive tape, just hold the wires and wrap it to the strut, then clamp the light in place. I converted mine to a cool white LED (the high-wattage version with a heatsink and power supply) and it works well enough.

 

Awesome, I don't have a rear wiper so not having to wedge it up would be awesome, thanks for the link

 

Finally, I figured out how to post a link to the photo album. It's not a totally step-by-step write-up, but it shows teh struts and the included hardware. You only need the 7/16" wrench or deep socket to install the new ball socket fittings, everything else is 12mm for the old struts.

"www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10200108056971942.2197610.1465780398&type=1 &l=ef119e7214"

I'm still marveling at my hatch opening when I unlock it (I converted my hatch release to electric, so the battery is out for storage).

 

struts are measured closed, open, and by how much weight they are rated for.
They are all 10mm ball socket mount.

Once you figure that out you can buy struts cheap or spend more and get all stainless versions.
You can go a little heavier duty on the lift rating just make sure that when you close it you dont have to put too much pressure otherwise you may end up ripping one of the mounts off.

 

I took a simple cabinet **** and bolted it to the window cover for easier lifting. then with the struts I took them in to autozone and got the closest match. no issues