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I just wanted to get a recommendation for a aftermarket alarm and power door locks (Actuators). I've seen some good reviews on the viper alarm system. Mind you I just need the keyfob open/close the door, and let me know where the car is. I noticed the kits don't come with door actuators. Does anyone recommend any particular door lock actuators that doesn't interfere with the door panel or power window.
I tackled the same project last year (I have an S4, so if you have an S5 the wiring might be different but otherwise everything should be the same).
I got a basic Viper alarm that had 3 channels (two doors + hatch). For the power locks, I used generic actuators that I bought at Princess Auto, no issues for over a year of use. There are plenty of existing mounting holes in the door, I used the ones near the interior handle. Roll your windows up and down once installed to make sure there aren't any problems. The lock controller is simple, you can make it yourself with two standard 5 pin automotive relays. Google for a wiring diagram, there are a bunch of them. Alternatively you can buy kits that include the controller, and most of them allow for an alarm to control them. Then all you have to do is connect the outputs from the Viper to the inputs for your controller and it will actuate the locks as designed.
You can save yourself a lot of time and wiring for the alarm by using the stock alarm inputs from the stock alarm under the dash (passenger side). Some of the wiring is here, I found the rest by just probing the connector and noting which wire did what. I'm sorry, I don't think I wrote it down.
The project isn't that difficult, but plan all of your wiring before you do it. It will save lots of headaches later. Also, acquire some wire to fish your new actuator wires through the rubber tube that covers the door>dash wiring.
I tackled the same project last year (I have an S4, so if you have an S5 the wiring might be different but otherwise everything should be the same).
I got a basic Viper alarm that had 3 channels (two doors + hatch). For the power locks, I used generic actuators that I bought at Princess Auto, no issues for over a year of use. There are plenty of existing mounting holes in the door, I used the ones near the interior handle. Roll your windows up and down once installed to make sure there aren't any problems. The lock controller is simple, you can make it yourself with two standard 5 pin automotive relays. Google for a wiring diagram, there are a bunch of them. Alternatively you can buy kits that include the controller, and most of them allow for an alarm to control them. Then all you have to do is connect the outputs from the Viper to the inputs for your controller and it will actuate the locks as designed.
You can save yourself a lot of time and wiring for the alarm by using the stock alarm inputs from the stock alarm under the dash (passenger side). Some of the wiring is here, I found the rest by just probing the connector and noting which wire did what. I'm sorry, I don't think I wrote it down.
The project isn't that difficult, but plan all of your wiring before you do it. It will save lots of headaches later. Also, acquire some wire to fish your new actuator wires through the rubber tube that covers the door>dash wiring.
I didn't wire for the hatch only because at the time I didn't have a 3rd actuator. The hatch (if I recall correctly) is actuated purely by cables, so I may have to fab some brackets and use a bicycle brake cable to make it work. On the upside, that means the actuator could be mounted in a variety of places.
I don't have a picture of the door actuator on me, but I can take one for you tomorrow. Basically there are two holes on the door, one round and one square beside the interior handle. These holes lined up almost perfectly with the mounting holes on my actuator, so after elongating one slightly with a dremel it fit perfectly. The actuators usually include a small bracket that can be used to mount the actuator anywhere and maintain it at an almost 0 degree angle to the stock lock rod, but I didn't need it in my setup as the angle at which the actuator sat worked perfectly fine when mounted directly to the door.
I didn't wire for the hatch only because at the time I didn't have a 3rd actuator. The hatch (if I recall correctly) is actuated purely by cables, so I may have to fab some brackets and use a bicycle brake cable to make it work. On the upside, that means the actuator could be mounted in a variety of places.
I don't have a picture of the door actuator on me, but I can take one for you tomorrow. Basically there are two holes on the door, one round and one square beside the interior handle. These holes lined up almost perfectly with the mounting holes on my actuator, so after elongating one slightly with a dremel it fit perfectly. The actuators usually include a small bracket that can be used to mount the actuator anywhere and maintain it at an almost 0 degree angle to the stock lock rod, but I didn't need it in my setup as the angle at which the actuator sat worked perfectly fine when mounted directly to the door.
Sorry about the wait, finally got out there and took that picture.
As I said, the holes fit nearly perfectly for my particular actuator. You can see that conveniently the angle for the connection to the lock rod is very shallow, but if I were to do it again or on another person's car, I would use the bracket provided with the actuator and mount it across the void that you can see below the actuator. That way it's nearly 0 degrees.
When I am able to roll the car out of the garage and open the door completely I can post better pictures for you, but that won't be for awhile.
Sorry about the wait, finally got out there and took that picture.
As I said, the holes fit nearly perfectly for my particular actuator. You can see that conveniently the angle for the connection to the lock rod is very shallow, but if I were to do it again or on another person's car, I would use the bracket provided with the actuator and mount it across the void that you can see below the actuator. That way it's nearly 0 degrees.
When I am able to roll the car out of the garage and open the door completely I can post better pictures for you, but that won't be for awhile.
