Power door locks/ Alarm
02-12-10, 05:23 PM
#1
mmm doritos
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Power door locks/ Alarm
Hello, I have an 87 TII that i have invested around 50k into and its all show ready now except for a few things..I need to install power locks and a damn good alarm system. So I'm shopping around for a door lock kit that includes everything..actuators/rods/switches/brain boxes or whatever. and then also an alarm system that would interface with the power door locks, id also like to have the power hatch pop too.. So i need alot of guidance when it comes to buying a quality kit. I dont want some china garbage ya know..can someone please show me to a few good quality set ups. Thank you
02-12-10, 08:04 PM
#2
Hello, I have an 87 TII that i have invested around 50k into and its all show ready now except for a few things..I need to install power locks and a damn good alarm system. So I'm shopping around for a door lock kit that includes everything..actuators/rods/switches/brain boxes or whatever. and then also an alarm system that would interface with the power door locks, id also like to have the power hatch pop too.. So i need alot of guidance when it comes to buying a quality kit. I dont want some china garbage ya know..can someone please show me to a few good quality set ups. Thank you
With that said, the best alarm in the world will not do you any good if its poorly installed.
02-12-10, 08:04 PM
#3
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Prestige or Viper are good choices
i am a owner of a car stereo shop. It is the install that makes any alarm good. find a good installer or really take your time if you do it yourself. Also look into a gps tracker that u can hide in the vehicle to locate and track a stolen vehicle. 350 will get u a very good unit. I personall7 like the Prestige 998 or the Viper 5701 or 5901. Check out their web sites. both r good units.
02-13-10, 02:07 AM
#5
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Invest in a firearm. Alarms only slow down thieves. If they want your car they are going to take it. If you got 50k in a car I am sure you can spring for a nice shotgun or handgun.
02-13-10, 03:26 AM
#6
mmm doritos
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LOL yeah i got that covered bro..i have few pistols and a 38 ect. and i have my concealed weapons permit...but that dosent help me when im not at my car..however, the main thing im trying to do here is have power locks and power hatch pop. The alarm is just a bonus that kind of goes hand in hand with installing power locks in an older car. I found a nice kit online that comes with both door solonoids and remotes, hardware, boxes, keyless entry, solonoid for hatch..a shitload of stuff. everything i need to get power locks and keyless entry with remote hatch release. All i need now is a nice alarm..Im going to do a write up on this power setup so keep an eye out for that, i think its gonna be cool as hell to have all power..
02-13-10, 04:04 AM
#7
LOL yeah i got that covered bro..i have few pistols and a 38 ect. and i have my concealed weapons permit...but that dosent help me when im not at my car..however, the main thing im trying to do here is have power locks and power hatch pop. The alarm is just a bonus that kind of goes hand in hand with installing power locks in an older car. I found a nice kit online that comes with both door solonoids and remotes, hardware, boxes, keyless entry, solonoid for hatch..a shitload of stuff. everything i need to get power locks and keyless entry with remote hatch release. All i need now is a nice alarm..Im going to do a write up on this power setup so keep an eye out for that, i think its gonna be cool as hell to have all power..
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02-13-10, 11:46 AM
#8
mmm doritos
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i got the kit from commandolocks.com or whatever.. it includes 2 actuator, 1 solenoid to pop the hatch, brackets/hardware for those, all wire harnesses, keyless entry with two 3 button remotes, lock/unlock/hatch, brain box for remote keyless and it has other crap too, everything you need..its sweet
02-13-10, 11:50 AM
#9
mmm doritos
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i promise to do a detailed write up..because honestly i think this is going to be a ******* awesome mod to have...plus for all of those whos lock cylinders are going bad like mine, now you dont have to buy new matching set of locks!!!
02-14-10, 03:38 PM
#10
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Here's my 2-cents.
DEI is the standard for well-manufactured electronics. I have their actuators, an alarm (a DEI-manufactured Clifford) and modules and no issues (apart from forgetting to install a diode inline with the dome lamp trigger).
Do's and Don'ts:
Do study the factory service manual wiring diagrams and body electrical sections. They'll give you a wealth of information you'll need to wire everything up.
Do use solder and heatshrink to splice together wires. Avoid cheap crimp terminals and vamp taps. You want to keep dirt and moisture out.
Do use proper circuit protection at the right locations. Fuses are a must.
Do use quality made hardware. Cheap stuff won't necessarily last a long time or be easy to work with.
Do use the right tools. Use a quality crimping tool for crimping terminals.
Do use a generic red LED and generic alarm labels. Security depends on giving as little information as possible.
Do use ignition, starter and fuel pump cut offs.
Do be sure to document the wiring you utilize for troubleshooting. It helps in case you run into problems and need to eliminate the alarm system.
Do be sure to make all the wiring nicely bundled and wrapped and otherwise out of view.
Don't keep the alarm module under the dashboard--or at least anywhere near the old alarm module's location. That's the first place a thief looks. Hide it behind a sail panel or kickpanel. You can make use of most of the factory alarm's wires, but you'll need a few more for the parking lights and cut-offs.
Don't advertise what make/model alarm you have. The less a thief knows, the longer it takes for a thief to disable it--time that a thief won't have.
Other tidbits: You can also add a DEI actuator (or any actuator with 7 pounds of pulling force or more) to open the hatch--you even remove the cable assembly and convert the cable release lever to actuate a switch to trigger the actuator. Use a relay and fuse protect the circuit.
If you have a sunroof, you can use a power window module to add one-touch open/close operation, as well as rework the switch wiring to work as controls only (all the current to drive the sunroof motor goes through the factory buttons), leaving the load to be handled by the module (if it supports the current) or relays.
Instead of having the siren mounted in the engine compartment, bury it (or a smaller piezo siren) up and under the dashboard. You can use the car's horn as an external siren. People don't like things blasting away in their ear--thieves would have a harder time poking around under a dashboard if a siren is blasting away.
Focus more on function than bling. A good system is something you forget is even there.
DEI is the standard for well-manufactured electronics. I have their actuators, an alarm (a DEI-manufactured Clifford) and modules and no issues (apart from forgetting to install a diode inline with the dome lamp trigger).
Do's and Don'ts:
Do study the factory service manual wiring diagrams and body electrical sections. They'll give you a wealth of information you'll need to wire everything up.
Do use solder and heatshrink to splice together wires. Avoid cheap crimp terminals and vamp taps. You want to keep dirt and moisture out.
Do use proper circuit protection at the right locations. Fuses are a must.
Do use quality made hardware. Cheap stuff won't necessarily last a long time or be easy to work with.
Do use the right tools. Use a quality crimping tool for crimping terminals.
Do use a generic red LED and generic alarm labels. Security depends on giving as little information as possible.
Do use ignition, starter and fuel pump cut offs.
Do be sure to document the wiring you utilize for troubleshooting. It helps in case you run into problems and need to eliminate the alarm system.
Do be sure to make all the wiring nicely bundled and wrapped and otherwise out of view.
Don't keep the alarm module under the dashboard--or at least anywhere near the old alarm module's location. That's the first place a thief looks. Hide it behind a sail panel or kickpanel. You can make use of most of the factory alarm's wires, but you'll need a few more for the parking lights and cut-offs.
Don't advertise what make/model alarm you have. The less a thief knows, the longer it takes for a thief to disable it--time that a thief won't have.
Other tidbits: You can also add a DEI actuator (or any actuator with 7 pounds of pulling force or more) to open the hatch--you even remove the cable assembly and convert the cable release lever to actuate a switch to trigger the actuator. Use a relay and fuse protect the circuit.
If you have a sunroof, you can use a power window module to add one-touch open/close operation, as well as rework the switch wiring to work as controls only (all the current to drive the sunroof motor goes through the factory buttons), leaving the load to be handled by the module (if it supports the current) or relays.
Instead of having the siren mounted in the engine compartment, bury it (or a smaller piezo siren) up and under the dashboard. You can use the car's horn as an external siren. People don't like things blasting away in their ear--thieves would have a harder time poking around under a dashboard if a siren is blasting away.
Focus more on function than bling. A good system is something you forget is even there.
02-14-10, 03:45 PM
#11
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Use factory door lock actuators out of a S5. You can reverse the bends of the dirvers side actuator and it will fit perfectly in the drivers door. Holes are already there for the 10MM bolts.
Nothing fits as good as stock.
Wire to the alarm, and your good.
Nothing fits as good as stock.
Wire to the alarm, and your good.
