well ... weirdly the car came back 2 life. (the turbo motor) I turned the bac screw all the way out and then turned the idle screw in the back of the motor up hella. The car idled and I almost died. It was a 2500 rpm idle but it was an idle. I slowly dropped the idle screw down little by little, till now I have a 1000 rpm idle.

Its weird though, I hit the gas, and it revs up after a little bit of hesitation, but when the rpms drop back down, it goes to 500, then bounces up to 1000 and back down to 500 a couple times, backfires, and then goes back to holding idle at 1000. Any ideas? The tps is hard to set seeing how every time I change the idle, the warm setting of the TSP changes. Its super sensitive to keeping it at 1k ohm.

Also I cant figure out what the screw that is by the pot does. It also changes the tps, but I dont know why or what its connected to.

i have the bac screw back in, about half way with no change. I still cant figure out what the bac screw has to do with the idle. *shrugs*

 

why would you change the idle anyway? thats not very effecient.

you idle is supposed to be at about 750 rpms....maybe thats why...oh and its not supposed to hesitate when you step on the gass....well at least mine doesnt.
i think the flux in the idle after you rev it would be that your sensors are going crazy trying to find the idle because its in the wrong place

 

hmm.... ... .... k

 

so I have this kinda wierd thing going on now. If I tap the gas, it slows the idle down, or if I let go of the clutch (in Neutral so there is little to no load) the idle will fall down to 300 rpm and sometimes it will recover, but most the time it dies.

*CONFUSED HELP!*

 

my turbo 2 does that too. I thought it was a air leak at first, but i dont think it is. sometimes itll idle under 500 rpm after reving .I tried advancing the timing just a lil bit on the distributor cap, it helped abit, but still does it.It also back fires too, does that mean its rich?

 

that i can help you with, my car does almost the same thing you most likely have a vaccum hose leak this would be correct if it is starting hot if its a cold start then it may be an issue with your injectors or the fuel system in general meaning your not getting enough fuel to continue the combustion cycle, if not it could also be an electrical problem, in otherwords if its electrical your not getting enough power to keep the engine turning.

let me no if it does it when you cold start it and when it starts hot

as for your problem dkwasherexd you might want to recheck tose vaccum hoses there hard to catch sometimes, try doing that stethescope trick they tell you to do in the haynes manual on the hoses

 

get some new vacuum lines and nipples for your upper intake manifold. adjust the thermowax screw (this is what causes the car to die when cold).

dont know if its related or not. i put in a new o2 sensor and it helped my idle. no more spuddering or pop corn noises.

question::

what did you do to the car to cause you to have to adjust the BAC screw and rear idle screw? unless it was either tampered with or broken it should never need any adjustiing.

 

yaaaaa Was my mistake to touch the throttle plate screws (and thermowax). I am going to take the throttle body off tomorrow and adjust it back to specs (acording to fsm) I need to leave .5 mm of space between the plate and the TB wall. Other then a spark plug gapper, I have no clue how im goint to tell .5mm on a round TB whole. (@ 77 degrees F) haha. Going to be interesting. But if that doesnt work, I will be checking to make sure spark is getting to the spark plugs when I think its running off 1 rotor (bouncing up and down) Not quite sure how im going to check that but I will search. I have NOOOO clue how to test if injectors are doing what they should be. *Shrugs*

 

You'd use a pin gauge...

Just adjust the primary throttle stopper to touch the level slightly. You might need to do it a few times to get it within the right range.

 

adjust the rear dashpot. it is supposed to be in contact with the thermowax cam untill about 3000 RPM where it seperates. then when the rev drops it cushions the throttle and calms it as it de-revs (scientific term...)

 

I am having this same problem!! where are the guru's when we need them. ice mark, reted, aaron we need your help

 

I'd check the TPS again...
Yes, the TPS is very touchy.
If you're having problems trying to set it, try to set it on the low side.
Aim for 0.99x k ohms...or just slightly under 1.0k ohms.
The TPS tends to drift higher as it gets older or normal wear & tear.

The hesitation part sounds like it's TPS related.
Also do a full-sweep TPS check and make sure the resistance rises linearly - max at 5.5k ohms.

Don't worry about the BAC...in fact, unplug the BAC valve to see if this changes anything?


-Ted

 

My guideline for setting the TPS is to turn it until both test lights are on, then turn it until one goes out... the closer you get to two lights being on, the closer you are to the optimum value of ~1 ohms.

 

I dont have the 2 light thing, but every1 keeps saying they recommend it. So I think I might make a trip out to radioshack while my TB warms up to 77 degress so I can set the Thermowax and such.

 

WELLLLLL im an idiot ! its true dont beleive what everyone else tells you! I had my injector plugs messed up. I had my primary inj plug on my trailing and my trailing on my primary. Kinda doesnt like to run right when you do that.

Wow she pulls a lot harder then the NA. Also stops really fast when you hit the fuel cut at 4000 rpm @ WOT. lol I only have down pipe. Not as loud as I was thinking it would be either. Anyways anybody reading any of my posts in the last 3 days, unless you have ur injectors mixed up, dont listen to anything I am saying.

Good luck to you all!!