jiyuan

Hey guys, I'm relatively new to the rotary, and I have a few questions concerning my 88 glx

first of all, when i got it, it came with a s5 TII afm. Are the s5 TII afm any differnt from the s4 TII/NA?

Also I seached on the boards and came up with a few posts siting that a bad afm or BAC causes idle problems. On a cold start, the car will start, then die immediately. In order to keep the engine form dieing, I need to hold the throttle at about 3k until the engine warms up, then the car is good to go. And this will only happen on a cold start. Does this sound like an afm problem, or something more like low compression?

Thanks ahead of time for eveyones help.

ilike2eatricers

If it runs while after warming up it is probably a thermowax problem. I would not hold the throttle at 3k rpm trying to warm it up faster. Just keep it at 1k if you can.

jiyuan

thanks for the quick reply

if the thermowax is bad, what would i need to do? Would it be bad to continue driving it as it is?

ilike2eatricers

Do a search on "thermowax." As far as I know it is just replaced. Nothing bad about it except you may have to keep your foot on the throttle for a minute or 2 until it is warmed up.

jiyuan

thanks for the help 1like2eatricers

bump for the afm question

rexman13b

iTrader: (7)

the afm on a s5 is different than a s4. the s4 afm is a flapper door style, which is more restrictive than the sliding style s5 afm. do you know for sure that it is a s5 t2 afm? what's the # on it? if it's n370 or n374 it's a s5 t2. n350 is a s5 na and n327 or n326 is a s4 na, which is what your car came with. there would need to be some custom wiring to make any s5 afm work on an s4, since the plugs are different.

rexman13b

iTrader: (7)

the afm on a s5 is different than a s4. the s4 afm is a flapper door style, which is more restrictive than the sliding style s5 afm. do you know for sure that it is a s5 t2 afm? what's the # on it? if it's n370 or n374 it's a s5 t2. n350 is a s5 na and n327 or n326 is a s4 na, which is what your car came with. there would need to be some custom wiring to make any s5 afm work on an s4, since the plugs are different.

rexman13b

iTrader: (7)

sorry for the double post, it took me about 5 minutes to get the f**kin thing to post. this site pisses me off sometimes when it doesn't respond.

jiyuan

rexman13b: its a n370 afm. how much would it go for if i tried to sell it?

What about an n332 ECU? I read that those are s4 TII ecus, but the guy who i got it from said that it was for a S5?

jiyuan

Also, I popped the hood and took a look. Looks like the cold start assist bottle is gone, and there seems to be lots of emissions stuff gone (2 or 3 block off plates, 2 jb welded vacum hose lines), but I cant be sure exactly what has been taken off. If I posted a pic, would someone be able to tell what has been removed? Thanks

Scott 89t2

the thermowax is probably removed too then. so common to have to hold the gas when cold. but not for that long. 1500rpm for 30-60 secs should be enough.

is the AFM black and"round" or silver (metal and "square"

jiyuan

the afm is black and has a round part that goes in and out in the middle and has a sticker that says n370 on it

Bambam7

Yep.. I bet someone did the "throttle body mod" on it.
It's so pointless on an N/A car.. I don't know why people bother.
Look on the throttle body on the top of the engine.
You see where the big plastic elbow that the air intake hose is?
Where that elbow bolts onto the throttle body, there may be a bolt into the center of the throttle body, on the front, about one inche from where the elbow meets the TB. It might not be a bolt, it might be JBwelded up instead...
ANother way to check is to remove that plastic elbow (easy)and look into the throttle body. If there are 2 plates right at the start of the TB, then the mod hasn't been done. IF there arent any plates, and holes(or filled holes) for a shaft, then they've been removed and you kjnow why it isn't idling!

jiyuan

bambam7: haha damn tb mod. thanks for the insight, ill check it out tomorrow

my main concern was that it was the motor itself that was at fault for the idleing, bcuz when i first bought the car (im the 3rd owner) the previous owner said that the car may have low compression which was causing the startup problems. it was the first owner that did all the current mods (rp exhaust, cartec intake, catz fogs, emissions removal), so we both kinda clueless to what exactly has been done and causing those problems.

also for some reason, he recommended that i not rebuild it and just get a new motor. from what i have said, does it sound like the motor is rebuildable? i want to do a tII swap, so i want to see if my n/a motor could be sold to recoop my costs. other than the cold starts, the motor is perfect as far as i can telling from looking under the hood and driving it, and its only got 120000 miles on it

jiyuan

found a pic, can anyone tell me what used to be here?

rexman13b

iTrader: (7)

you could get maybe $70- $100 for the n370 afm depending on the buyer. if it has a n332 ecu that a 87 t2 ecu, yours should be the n327, maybe $70 for the n332 ecu

rexman13b

iTrader: (7)

yeah the n332 ecu is for s4s

NZConvertible

It's not actually...

That is where the air control valve used to be. It's part of the emissions controls and it's removal shouldn't cause any problems.

As long as it starts easily, it sounds like nothing more than the normal symptom of removing the thermowax.