advanced timing
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,946
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From: Bellingham Wa
advanced timing
i Know there is no vavles and head ect
im talking about the spark on a NA 88
i heard somewere that advacening the timeing on your spark will give you some more HP
is this true and if so about how far should i go if i do this, and to the right or left?
thanks
im talking about the spark on a NA 88
i heard somewere that advacening the timeing on your spark will give you some more HP
is this true and if so about how far should i go if i do this, and to the right or left?
thanks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 3
From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
The most suggested to be run on an NA is 20degrees over stock, and to set that I'd get a timing light inwhich you can set the fire using either a dial (on the analog ones) or a button on digital, this will let you be exact with your settings and not just guessing. Oh, and I'm with the above crew, learn more about the car before you tinker with it, otherwise you'll just get pissed off when you send an apex seal through your exhaust.
The guy is just asking a question, no need to be smart *** and say something like that GTR! im sure he knows what an apex seal is. he just wants some more hp out of his car and probly heard advanced timing is an easy way to do it.
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yep, innocent enough question...we were all newbies once and hey many of us still are
best to work with bolt ons at first (full exhaust, intake, pulleys, aluminum flywheel, TB mod). messing w/ the timing should only be done on a dyno to fine tune your motor...you could also play w/ the AFM spring to fine tune the mixture but again these are very crude ways to play and should only be done on a dyno to get that extra couple horsies, don't look for huge gains. i blew my first motor bc i thought (timing advance = power) yeaaaaars ago. basically it slowed the car down and tossed an apex seal a few days later (yea, i CRANKED the CAS). new rotary people learn the hard way
that really sucked too, that motor was original and passed emissions w/ ZERO HC's (only mods were 2.5 inch single motor back exhaust, K&N, high flow cat). GRRRRRRRRRR
best to work with bolt ons at first (full exhaust, intake, pulleys, aluminum flywheel, TB mod). messing w/ the timing should only be done on a dyno to fine tune your motor...you could also play w/ the AFM spring to fine tune the mixture but again these are very crude ways to play and should only be done on a dyno to get that extra couple horsies, don't look for huge gains. i blew my first motor bc i thought (timing advance = power) yeaaaaars ago. basically it slowed the car down and tossed an apex seal a few days later (yea, i CRANKED the CAS). new rotary people learn the hard way
that really sucked too, that motor was original and passed emissions w/ ZERO HC's (only mods were 2.5 inch single motor back exhaust, K&N, high flow cat). GRRRRRRRRRR
Last edited by jon88se; May 7, 2003 at 01:41 PM.
Actually, I've heard that you can run up to 30* BTDC (35* advanced over stock) without problems in a stock N/A configuration.
If you're running bigger ports you want to keep it at below 20* BTDC for safety. (still 25* advance over stock)
I noticed a nice increase in idle speed when I brought mine up to 10* BTDC. I haven't done anything with the car since so I can't tell if there is any pinging under heavy load. (the ecu will advance the timing even more)
10-20* BTDC is commonly agreed fine for n/a's.
If you're running bigger ports you want to keep it at below 20* BTDC for safety. (still 25* advance over stock)
I noticed a nice increase in idle speed when I brought mine up to 10* BTDC. I haven't done anything with the car since so I can't tell if there is any pinging under heavy load. (the ecu will advance the timing even more)
10-20* BTDC is commonly agreed fine for n/a's.
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