FCKing1995

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It went from smooth idle to now it has a hunting idle. The typical 1000-1500rpm, and the BAC valve is non responsive to idle adjustment. Anyone know what the simplest thing it could be is? Im pretty sure its not a vacuum leak because I made damn sure everything was sealed well when I installed my injectors.

BTW, when I set my TPS, at idle position (after I had warmed up the car and turned it off) it was reading way up at around 2.2v-2.5v, and WOT at approx. 6.2-6.5. The adjustment screw was almost all the way in. After I reset it, I got it to sit right at 1.05v idle and approx 4.8v WOT... why do you think it was turned in so far, and why do you think my idle has gone from good to bad?

FCKing1995

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I hate rotaries... Just did all of this work, spent almost a grand getting new injectors, rtek ecu, replacement stuff and got it all back together and the damn car is still flooding and undrivable. Now it has this seeking idle bullshit and a buzzer that bugs me... Once its hot it wont restart and the flood clear feature isnt working

Ruffryder_29

the rtec1.5 have that option disabled on the CPU. It is actually supposed to correct it on its own. I have one as well.

rx7 FC TII

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where in bham are you...i might be able to come help sometime.....

FCKing1995

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leeds. and its the 1.8, so i have the flood clear. i adjusted my tps thinking it was why the flood clear wasnt working, but still isnt working!!! Im wondering if maybe bad plugs would cause hot start issues. Itm ight not be the fact its flooding, it might be the fact the engine is hot as to why its not cranking... ugh, this is my second rotary in over a year and still i dont have an rx7 that runs well enough to make it a daily driver. Have an fb that runs like **** and detonates and now a T2 that I cant get to even start most of the time. its so damn stressful

rx7 FC TII

iTrader: (3)

are you sure you installed the injectors correctly? they could be leaking and causing the flood....that is why the rtek wouldnt recognize that it is flooding.

Ruffryder_29

hmmmm...bad BAC maybe?

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

How would you install them wrong? Put one in each injector port, had both the top and bottom grommet and an o-ring on top of each, seated them into the rails and made sure they sat flush, bolted it back down, hooked back up the fuel lines and put the rest of the stuff back on

rx7 FC TII

iTrader: (3)

actually that would make sense

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Would a bad BAC cause hot start/flooding issues? What about people who block off the BAC? I have noticed that the idle adjust screw on the BAC doesnt change the idle at all. Its lal plugged up right, so could that maybe be it? Also how do you go about testing one?

Ruffryder_29

Yes it would cause flooding....it could be send a false reading to your CPU.you can check it with a voltmeter but I dont know off hand what the reading should be. It is in the haynes manual as well though as to the specifics and how to

FCKing1995

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Well, I sorta hope thats all it is, cause its an easy fix, but at the same time I hope not cause a new one is like $450

takahashiRyosukeFC3S

a quick and dirty way to test if your BAC works it to take a 12volt power supply and test across the pins to see if the BAC clicks open and closed.

you do this test with the car battery disconnected. i tested mine with a spare Yuasa 12v battery lying around.

you way want to do a search on "test BAC" if you are confused about what I'm talking about.

TR

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The BAC doesn't send any signals to the ECU.

Adjust for 1K resistance with the throttle closed. That's the only reliable method I have found for adjusting the TPS.

When you reassembled the intake after swapping the injectors, are you sure you didn't create any vacuum leaks? Common areas are at the injector o-rings and intake gaskets...Also a million vacuum lines that could have been connected wrong.

This is not a rotary issue. Similar things can and do cause similar problems in any vehicle...

FCKing1995

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As far as I can tell I created no vacuum leaks. I put all of the gaskets on correct and the injectors as far as I know are seated and dont leak. Only thing that it could be, but I doubt it is the gasket between the upper and lower manifold. I left the old gasket on, yes I know I know, not good practice, but all of it stuck to the lower section and was going to be hard to get off without dropping tons of it into the runners. Plus the old gasket was harneded and was still smooth from the upper manifold mating surface. So all it did was act as a milimeter spacer. I put RTV on both sides of the new gasket to make sure it was 100% sealed. So Im almost possitive it sealed, plus I sprayed around with some carb cleaner and didnt get any idle changes... Ill test my BAC when I get a new volt meter, mine started being a bastard and the display stopped working so I can only see the first number on a 00.00 scale... I did however notice when I wiggled the plug the idle jumped a bit. So it might just be not making a good ocnnection at the plug. I broke one side of the female part of the plug off, where the wire clip holds it on. So I used a piece of wire, which isnt doing too well of holding it on. Anyone know where you can get those new? I guess Id have to cut the old one off and add a bit og length to it cause its so short... problems problems, whats new

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Also, refering to the TPS adjustment. When i adjusted it, like I said the screw was almost all the way in, and I had to back it almost all the way out before it read close to 1. but once I got it near 1 the adjustment was much more fine. is that normal? When it was all the way in, 5 turns only equaled maybe .25 volts, but right near the correct spot .25 volts could be changed with only about 1/4 of a turn. Normal?

FCKing1995

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A fellow rotary owner brought a good idea to light on another forum im on. I dunno why I didnt think of it before. For my flooding problem, why the hell not just use a toggle swtich on the fuel pump? not that hard to take 1 extra step when you start or turn off the car,

Also, dont oyu think a blocked or old rotted fuel return line could cause pressure on the system and cause flooding? of course i have new injectors so i dunno. something is causing this damn thing to flood and i dunno what

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I very much doubt that it's sealed. Do it right by scraping off the old gasket, cleaning both mating surfaces with gasket remover, then use a new gasket with a skim coat of silicone on each side. Torque to spec.

Not always a good indicator, especially if the car is still in cold start or running rich.

A loose connection at the BAC will cause problems. The BAC actually draws a good amount of current so resistance in the connection will cause a major voltage drop.

The connector is almost the same as a standard injector connector so any auto parts store can provide one...

I have not adjusted a stock TPS for quite a while...Make sure you are measuring on the right pins for resistance otherwise it will be backwards. And make sure you are reading in kilo-ohms and not ohms. Stop using voltage as the adjustment method. It doesn't work.

That's the standard flooding fix/hack. It will stop the symptom, but of course does not correct the problem.

With the stock EFI system, short starting the car will likely cause it to flood. So that could be a big cause. Low compression is another, and if the car in in poor tune (which I suspect it is) then it will be more prone to flooding.

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

I didnt expect them all to be answered lol. thanks though! Answers above

FCKing1995

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I was just coming home from the bank a few hours ago and when I was almost home i started to smell raw fuel really badly. Burning my eyes and throat. got it home and popped the hood and was met by a bigger wave of fuel smell. I started taking it all back apart (still have stock tmic and other junk in the way) and got to the injectors and could see the fuel on top of the engine. Im lucky nothing caught fire because despite my turning off the fuel pump and letting the car die of starvation, then opening the fuel cap... it still had tons of pressure built up. After getting the injector out I saw my problem. When putting them in somehow I cut one of the injector orings, and it was just sorta sitting in there. Replaced it and put it back together, then broke a plastic nipple off of something. Its the little valve bolted to the top of the uim, with a hose that goes to the bac valve. My bac valve isnt plugged in anyway so I just removed it and caped off the bac valve nipple and the nipple on the intercooler. Seems to work fine now. Though im a bit scared, I forgot that I only tightened up the fuel rail as tight as my hand could get it with the socket and extension on it. but maybe it wont vibrate loose and burn my car up If i start smelling fuel again Its not but a 20 minute teardown with all the right tools. I also cleaned up the uim gasket and put some silicon on the throttle body spacer thing, so Im sure I fixed all of my vacuum leaks.

RxFC3S-13B

S4s runs better when you adjust the TPS to 0.95 - 1Kohm.
S5s run better when you adjust the TPS to 1v. I have never had luck when adjusting the tps to 1K Ohms on S5s

Like Arron said, sounds like you might be measuring the TPS backwards.

RxFC3S-13B

What size injectors did you buy? Does Rteck 1.8 allow you to adjust with a Palm or is that the 2.0? If it does maybe you have it set wrong?

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

no only 2.0 does. My injectors are correct/ i really dont have a problem anymore, was just using this thread to avoid making a new one. 95% of my problem is low compression #'s. After a rebuild and blocking off all of this emmisions crap I dont need it should be fine