Eple

Alrighty, so I'll start off with the basics here, I've got a 1989 GX (Canadian Base), no power locks, converted to power windows (which I *THINK* has an extra harness/plug).

Alright, I've already researched and I know the FC incorporates a 'follow me' system (which Icemark has explained in nearly ever thread I've read on the subject, haha) with the stock alarm; however, my car has no alaram, no armrest 'security' light, and no idiot cluster light (NO Stock alarm). The car currently has a Compustar system installed and working on the car, however it looks pretty stupid disabling the alarm, then unlocking it with a key.

Basically what i'm asking is if I were to get actuators, I'm just wondering if anybody has any experience as to the wiring of the actuators to a Compustar system. I'm sure it's something along the lines of plugging the actuators into the alarm brain box, and no splicing into the car's electrical harness, correct? (Note, I've installed remote start systems, so If I am splicing, I'm okay with that).

Can anybody shed some light here?

woode87

If you have installed remote start systems before, then this should be cake.. I can't give information specific to that alarm system (Computsar) however they all work the same.
The actuator(s) are just a motor that spins 1 of two directions depending on the polarity (lock vs unlock). There should be two wires off your alarms brain's harness that will register +12v and ground when you press 'lock' and will flip-flop when you press 'unlock' for a second or so after you press each button. Just splice the actuator right into these and your good to go. (make sure you get lock and unlock correct otherwise you might be unlocking your doors and turning the alarm on lol)
If you tell me which alarm system you have I could probably tell you exactly which wires they are, but then again you can find the same info in your manual or the web site.

Boosted11

iTrader: (11)

I would just take it to a compustar autorized dealer. When I got my compustar system I paid $75 a door. Just do that and you know its not messed up. Pretty sure all you would have to pay for is the actuators because most dealers are comitted to fixing/tweaking the alarm system.

Eple

Thank you good sir, that's exactly what I was looking for. The brain is a CM3300, and I believe i just found the correct wiring outline for it.

On the box it's labeled in the group called "CN4" (connector housing 4?) there's 3 outputs. They read: "lock output, unlock output, 2n unlock output. Now let me just make sure I'm right about this. I'd splice the lock actuators into the line that read "lock output" (durrrr), then splice the other line on the actuators to the "unlock output", right? (Leaving the "2nd unlock output" alone - nothing spliced into it. OR would i have the drivers in "unlock output" and the passenger's in "2nd unlock output"?).

Is that right?

My local shop wants a week and $200 to install them, that's ludicrous in my opinion.

Boosted11

iTrader: (11)

Ouch, that is ridiculous. In that sence, I would attempt to do it myself.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

If it's polarity activated, unless there is a controller, you will need some relays, one relay for each polarity switch, so two.

Its very vague but do you get what i'm saying?

Eple

Yes, I do.

woode87

If you have a volt-meter the best thing to do is check the voltages on the wires while pressing the buttons on the key chain -- you will see the 1-2 second blip of like 9-13 volts (sometimes its not long enough for volt meters to go up to 13.04 or whatever your battery reading is.. but the fact that it spikes up when you press the button is what your looking at) and go from there

Edit: looked into it a little more:
I am going off of this website:
http://www.compustar.com/dsupport/ma...ing_manual.pdf
It is a wiring diagram/install guide type thing for your brain.

Off of the CN4 harness, you will want to connect Blue Pin 4 (+lock output // -unlock output) to one wire off the actuator, and Blue/Black Pin 5 (+unlock output // -lock output) to the other wire off the actuator. Press the lock or unlock button on the keychain and see if it performs the right action.. If its opposite, switch the wires around. You will want both actuators wired into these same 2 wires together. Assuming stock power door locks, usually this harness is hooked up to the switch that unlocks all of the doors, but since you are installing actuators you will have to splice 2 into 1.. this shouldn't cause any problems -- I have done this before w/ DEI alarms.

If you wanted, now would be the time to grab another actuator and hook up the trunk release in a similiar fashion. Although, usually trunk releases are a (-) so you would need a relay..

MidnightOwl

Actuators are easy to install. At my old shop we charged $100 a door for actuators, since the part was only like $40. I put some in my FC a few years back, was really easy. Try to obtain some backstrap so you can bolt the actuator in place. I had very limited experience with the Compustars, but some of the DEI alarms I had to use relays to power the actuators, which was fairly simple to do.

The trunk release actuators are different entirely, and operate off of another channel on the keyfob, like channel four or something. Door lock actuators have a push and pull, whereas the trunk release has just a pull. It wires up in the same fashion and I believe (it's been a WHILE since I've put one in) it requires a positive pulse and has a ground wire on the actuator itself. I can't remember, but it is pretty easy to do and wires up much the same way, just on a different wire. You don't want to open your trunk every time you unlock the doors.

Eple

Awesome, thanks guys.



On a side note, I took it to another store today and they quoted me $300 to get effing door actuators installed....