I was putting my 13B back together. Following the directions on a video i bought. This was my first time btw. So when i got done torquing the bolts on the short block... It was seized... If you guys know what i did wrong that would be great. I thought i was doing it right.

 

the motor doesn't rotate? you are supposed to make sure it turns every time you add a housing. most likely the apex seals are jammed and locked the motor. is the front cover on when you tried to rotate the motor? if so then the endfloat is too tight. if anything i said doesn't make sense then you should have a more experienced tech to reassemble it for you.

 

Did you lube the bearings enough?

Try putting on the oil pump and turnin it by hand with the sump submerged in oil. Does that make it easier?

 

thanks for your help. I will take it apart. im just gonna try again. I didnt rotate it every time... so i think by the end it was jammed...

 

So it won't move at all? Even with a little bit of pressure from a breaker bar? The engine will be stiff to turn the first time but it will turn without a horrendous amount of force.

Sounds like something bad happened (duh ). Common causes for this are a seal falling out during rotor installation. That's about the only thing that will lock an engine solid other then a tool/nut/bolt being left inside. You're probably going to have to pull it apart again...

Turning the engine with each additional housing installation is a great way to allow seals to fall into the intake ports and spread assembly lube into sealants. It's best to leave the engine as stationary as possible until it's fully assembled.

Having too tight of an end float won't lock the engine up, but installing the bearings and spacers in the wrong order (leaving out a bearing, etc.) could.

 

Thanx aaron that was helpful

 

Well as an update. I put the engine back together about a month ago. And i have been trying to get it running with no success. I am completley frustrated and need to get some help.

 

Ill go out tomorrow and look at it closer. I dont even knoe where to start. It wont crank and idk if i have fuel or spark. IDK. I dont even wanna look at it.

A month ago i just wanted to get rid of it. (I was gonna get a camaro)

Now that im working on it. I realize how much i love this car. Its in such good condition and i love the color. I want to get her runninhg. But like i said before i dont know what to do.

 

If there is anybody near Flint, MI, that really know there stuff or has done a Turbo conversion. I would really appreciate your help. Let me know.

 

oh no this thread is alittle disconcerting. i just got an FD with bad seals and the motor came out last night and its going to be broken down this weekend and rebuilt who knows when. but now seeing this im alittle worried. i hope it all works out for you man. good luck.

 

u probley just have some bad wiring or even possibly a bad ecu just take a minute step back and go through everything make a check list if u need 2

 

yea i know the wiring is bad. I had a T2 EM harness that was cut at the firewall that i had to splice together and then i cant figure out where half of the alternator harness plugs in... I was just out there looking and i think part of my main harness was chopped off. I think im fucked.

 

well u said u are doing a t2 swap u do know thats it actually easier to use the n/a harness and just buy some wire for like 10 dollars at walmart or whereever and use thefsm and trace everything down

 

I heard using the T2 harness was easier..

 

well if u are trying to keep emisions it might be but doing a t2 swap i would think u arnt to concerned about emisions and if u dont use emissions the n/a harness is a direct plug and play

 

I took off all emmisions

 

that was helpful.

But would it make a difference. Wats harder about using the T2 Engine harness?\

I understand but im confused.

 

i just had a brain fart u mentioned the alt wiring wasnt right well do u know that when using the t2 harness in the swap that u have to run 2 alt wires and u have to repin a wire to get the temp guage working?

 

with the n/a harness its all plug and play and everything will work like its supose to no messing with non existant wires

 

yea im using the N/A Alt harness. Thats wat i dont get there are a few connectors i cant hook up. Could it be a/c or p/s or some emissions? im not sure Im trying to figure out what all the solenoids are for. Everyone says delete the rats nest. but dosent one of those control the wastegate. Idk i got rid of the Twin scroll thing.

 

if u got rid of the twin scrowll how? by goinf with an s5? and eleminating the rats nest dosent affect the wastegate.the rats nest is emissions related only and the other plugs could be ps and ac. what do u mean u have an n/a alt ahrness the alt harness and ecu harness is all 1 thing if u have a t2 harness then u have a t2 alt harness the other harness on the driver side isint for the alt its mainly lights and your coils and only acouple wires from it hook up to the motor and most are ground except for the starter pos.

 

go check out rotaryressurection.com he has some great how too all on swaps

 

There are 3 harnesses. The engine harness comes out of the passenger firewall. The main harness comes out of the drivers side harness and hooks up to the lights and stuff. Then there is the alternator harness which hooks up to the relay box. the battery, starter, etc...

To take out the twin scroll I cut out the flapper for one of the halves...
you lose some low end power/ response. oh well.

I am trying deseratley to simplify this so i can get it running.

 

Does anyone know exaxtly what inputs are required for the computer to allow starup... Whether running well or not.

 

im not sure what u got but iv only got 2 harnesses