Hello RX7 owners!!! I bought a lightly modified FC3s this late Febuary... The car is great and I love it, Rotary is really interesting... Recently the Add Coolant light is on, so I checked and add more coolant, but the light is still on, and I checked if theres a leak, but never found any leaks, so I tried driving it around for a couple of minutes without stopping, then light turns off, and if I stop the car and leave it on Idle for a couple of minutes the light turns back on again, and the water temp starts to rise... Can you guys help me out?? I called the local radiator shop and explained it to him, and he said if there a leak under the engine pass the front wheels its the water pump, but I told him that there is no leak, so he said it might be the thermostat, so I bought a thermostat a Autozone, and I'm planning to work on it tomorrow morning, but then I realize something, wont the thermostat only opens when its hot??? Cause the Add Coolant turns on right when I turn car.. Thanx

 

Hi

try air bleeding the radiator.
If you stand in front of the engine on the left side there is a point to air bleed.
Or in the middle, on the radiator there is the sensor for the add coolant light,
unplugg the cable and carefully open it.
Fill in coolant till it reaches the top end of the sensors hole or air bleed port ,
reassemble the sensor/screw, and add coolant till the level reaches the top of the fill in port,
and thats it..

-Patrick

 

Did you fill the reservoir or radiator? The warning loight means the radiator level is low, so that must be checked. Since the car is new to you, I recommend emptying and flushing the cooling system, then refilling it with fresh a water/coolant mix.

Aftermarket thermostats are not recommended. Return it and buy one from Mazda.

 

I filled the radiator, and as for the reservoir is in max.. How do I flush the cooling system??

Why can't I use the Autozone Thermostat?? And what would happen if i used it??

thanx

 

Aftermarket thermostats seem to fail often. Some may not include the proper bypass plug or jiggle pin.

 

Aaron wouldn't it be better to just tell people that they don't work? i mean comparing in my s4 oem vs stant themostats both brand new: a stant will result in my temp gauge hitting almost 1/2 way on the freeway when i'm WOT. putting in an oem and changing nothing else it sits consistantly at 1/4.

 

I had an after market thermo and my temp staid under the 1/4(it was also for 130degrees if I remember) and this back when I had your issue I did this and it worked fine, never had issues after. My issues started after getting my coollent changed.

 

put a Mazda brand thermostat in it.

if the temp rises and the low coolent buzzer comes on that means theres a few big air bubbles in it.

follow the directions in the FSM on how to bleed the coolent properely. basically you let the car run for a minute, pour a bit of coolent in while its running, let it run for another minute, add more coolent etc etc. then you unscrew the bleeder plug by the upper rad hose and let it run for a bit and "burp" the hose a bit by squeezing it. add coolent blah...

 

Thanx for ur help guys... I took my radiator sensor off and cleaned it and unscrewed the bleed screw, and added more coolant.. The Add Coolant light is not on anymore and the water temp is now stable at 1/4.. Thanx again for ur help

 

No, because that'll quickly be followed by several posts asking why. Do you believe everything you're told?

 

got an air bubble dude.
just open the cap once its cool and then put more coolant in. youll get the buzzer a couple of times and youll have to repeat this. but if its continuous, gotta get that **** check out dawhh gl