nima_taba

I am seriously confused right now and I have searched and read how-to's for 2 hours now and still don't understand a few things. The story is this: I am getting a full straigh through exhuast, and before I install it I want my six ports working properly. I am going to be piping my air pump to the six ports actuator line, using a valve and a dump line.

1) Is the skinny little wire coming from the split air pipe and check valve the one that actuates the ports?

2) Can I remove the entire split air pipe and check valve and plug the hole on the engine side, since my exhuast wont' even have a spot for the split air pipe anyways?

3) Can I leave my ACV in, and just plug all the lines leading into/out of it? I dont' want to remove it just cause I want to keep everything as simple as possible right now.

4) How on earth do i get that skinny little six ports pipe to attach to the big valve I am going to have to get? Or do you hook it up to the fat split air pipe, which will have to be left in....?

5) In the future, should I remove the ACV and plug it with a plate?

6) THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP IT IS MOST APPRECIATED

* edit: and I just went and revved my engine to 5500rpm and my six ports are not freakin' working either. What the hell am I supposed to do about that? Will this airpump method perhaps make them work, or do I need to do other stuff?

Sniper_X

what year car do you have?
I am a 6 port expert.

I do this all the time.
just let me know what im dealing with.

nima_taba

Its a 1988 SE. Stock except for an intake.

I am very disturbed that my ports aren't opening...should I put grease on them and take it for a drive? Maybe under load they will open??

Thanks,
Nima

hypntyz7

IF he has this it must be a series 4...s5's are operated my air pump pressure therefore would have no small hose from the SAP...

YES

YES. you dont even need to plug it, just leave it there with no hose. Or plug it, either way...

You can either leave it in, or take it out. I would take it on off, it is only 3 bolts, and with a header you get a blockoff plate anyway.

You use vacuum hose... you do not do anything with the fat side of the SAP hose.

I once set up a similar system to this on a s4 NA car. There is one inherent problem with the way you're thinking of doing it.

I tapped into the main air pump hose with abrasas aquarium connector meant to join 2 small pieces of hose to one big one. They sell actual vacuum connectors at aotuzone, etc., but I figured metal would be sturdier and stand up to heat better, so I use aquarium supplies, which are the same size as regular vacuum hose, adn cost less.

I ran my line first to the 6 ports input line, for testing. revved on the engine and they opened way too soon, and stayed open. I figured this was because I had too much positive pressure being pumped in. ON to experiment #2.

I got an aquarium regulator valve, a dual version. IT has one input and 2 outputs, and adjustments on both outputs. I closed one totally off and used only the 2nd one. I ran my airpump supply line as the input to this valve, and the output from it to teh 6pi. I set the valve in a few positions until I got them to open around 4000rpm, but they stayed open even at idle after being opened.

I soon figured out that the problem is that the 6pi actuators are sealed to vacuum/pressure, meaning that once pressure is applied it must be totally relieved in order to let them close again. Since the air pump spins while the engine runs at all times, it never got to release that pressure.

I wound up opening the 2nd valve as a vent valve. IT constantly vented some of the air pump pressure out, and by [playing with both adjustments I got them to open around 4000rpm yet close within 3 seconds of letting off the gas. This is the best response that could be achieved.

The more I thought about it, the stock s4 6pi system sucks ***, both in design and execution. First off, the system cant work well even when new and well-lubed with proper exhaust in place. Just like a turbo builds different boost in each gear and rpm range due to changes in *load*, an NA motor moves a different amount of air in each gear and rpm range, making the actuation point change each time. For instance in 1st gear I cant see them opening much at all, but I can se them opening in 5th pretty easily, when you really wouldnt want them open. Also, I see no way that they could "tune* the system to open at any specific rpm, such as 4000 like they should, dependent on airflow alone. The s5 VDI/6pi system is MUCh better, electronically activated by a constant rate air source for a dependable and consistent operation.

The best way, in my mind to work th4e 6pi system is to do it just like teh stock s5 does, by an electronic signal generated at a preset rpm. Bad thing is, an s4 NA has no such signal generated anywhere near 4000rpm, so you'll have to make your own. How? MSD rpm switch and 4000rpm pill, about $75 from summit. Use this to trigger a vacuum solenoid, just like the stock s5 does.

A vacuum solenoid works like a 3 way valve...1 output and 2 inputs. ON most of the stock ones, one of the inputs is to open air, via an air filter. So you would run air pump ressure to one "input", and the other input would be atmosphere. The output would be the 6pi. When the system is not actuated(below 4000rpm, or whatever pill you install), the open air input is connected to the output, the 6pi, meaning they remain closed under no presssure. When the switch kicks in 12vdc, at the pill rpm, teh solenoid switches to the other input, air pump pressure, and quickly opens the 6pi. They stay open until the switch drops below 4000rpm. Then it kills power to the solenoid, and it *rapidly* switches to atmosphere again, *immediately* venting out all pressure from teh 6pi system and letting them close quickly.

Anybody see anything wrong with my ultimate 6pi system?

This is the way I would set it up, if i were running a s4 NA with full exhaust. IT would make full use of the engine's power all the time adn work bulletproof consistently without wondering about it.

nima_taba

Yeah I see your point...and the rpm activated way does seem to be the wiser route. If I can get my 6pi to work at all, I think I will have to do it that way. Thanks for the excellent response hypntyz7!

Nima

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

You could use an old EGR Solenoid to Initiate the 6 ports via the rpm switch. As I will be doing In a short time...

hypntyz7

All the vacuum solenoids work in teh same way egr or otherwise.

HAILERS

This statement is incorrect: All the vacuum solenoids work in teh same way egr or otherwise.

There are two types of solenoid on these cars. They work *** backwards from each other.

An example: The Switching solenoid (grey), WILL pass air from nipple to nipple when NOT energized. Where as the Relief solenoid (blue), will NOT pass air from nipple to niople when it is NOT energized.

nima_taba

I think if my six ports are working, I know exactly what to do with them now. Thanks everyone.

But if they are not opening, how do I get them to work again? Lube them up? Move them around a bit by hand? I am thinking of running an external air pump to them and seeing if they will open with high pressure. Sound good?

Thanks,
Nima

Sniper_X

remove the intake system, get a bunch of carb cleaner and gasket remover and some wire brushes and clean clean clean!

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

I'll vouch for that! When I did that to Install my PR 6 port Inserts, have FI machined cleaned,block off OM Oil Injectors, lines and Oil Metering Pump, have whole Intake cleaned and polished, I swear a half cup of pure carbon was what I was able to scrap out. I beleive I gained a min. of 5 HP alone on this alone.

Sniper_X

All the cars i do this too report 20% inrease in gas mileage when driven to open them properly.

dolemite85

question for you guys i dont know much about the six ports but if they werent working properly would that cause major power loss?

nima_taba

Phew! I went and hooked up my 6pi actuator pressure line to a tire inflation pump, and sure enough, they opened ( with like 40 psi!) . I did this a few times to loosen them up. Then I hooked it up again, and with my brother watching, I revved the engine up pretty hard. He said that both of them opened up to half-way at least! Thank lord the 6pi are working I did not want to take them apart and clean them. (I am inept at such matters).

So now I am ready to do the RPM switch and whatnot....where do I buy the rpm switch and electronic selenoid valve thing...? Someone said summit earlier??

This is a great day,
Nima

Sniper_X

the PSI to open them should be 1.5 PSI.

they shoudl be loose in your hands when the actuators are removed.

nima_taba

What pressure will the air pump be making at 4000rpm....it will be more than 1.5psi i assume? How much more, because it appears mine are not quite loose and will need more than 1.5psi.

Nima

Sniper_X

If the ports dont open at 1.5 psi, then they are gummed up and need cleaning BADLY.

they will lock soon.

Also they will not open at the right time.

Are you not thinking that the actuator were only meant for a particular pressure? well they are.
40 psi is TO HIGH.

theyll burst.

hypntyz7

I dont know what pressure the air pump generates, but I do know it'd be more than 1.5psi, but no more than about 5-10 Id say. IT would be safe to run them on teh air pump, aqnd it definitely creates adequate pressure. IF that wont work them right, like sniper said they need to be taken out and cleaned.

IF you have basic tools like a ratchet, 6" and 12" extension, 12mm socket, elbow, 10mm socket, pliers, etc. you can pull the upper and lower intakes yourself in about 45 minutes.

As far as teh setup I descibed above, you can get eh MSD rpm switch from jegs or summit or most any speed shop.