ACV and related concerns
11-18-07, 10:51 PM
#1
ACV and related concerns
I've got an 89 vert with a JDM 13BT swapped into it. I'm having multiple problems and getting into all the details would make this a very long post.
The short of it is, I'm having really bad idle issues. Car only runs if I keep the RPMs up, anytime I'm not the car stalls. I checked compression and got even bumps of around 90 PSI on both rotors. I get a CEL of 3 and 38. I checked the resistance on my crank angle sensor and it's within SFM tolerance. I checked for the AWS solenoid and it's non-existent. On the backside of my UIM my BAP feeds into nothing but a fitting..no electronic harness, no nothing. I pulled the BAP and tested it's resistance and it's good. I tested the ACV harness and it reads 30 ohms, instead of the 16-20something that the FSM indicates.
Also I found that my Turbo Boost Pressure Control Duty Solenoid (the part sitting on the oil filler neck) had crimp and spliced wires. One of those crimps came loose and the wire was sitting unconnected.
I'm considering doing the rats nest mod but wanted to get a little bit of advice. Can the ACV be a contributing factor to bad idle. I've seen how-to's posted on emmisions removal, but not much on pro's and con's.
Thanks
The short of it is, I'm having really bad idle issues. Car only runs if I keep the RPMs up, anytime I'm not the car stalls. I checked compression and got even bumps of around 90 PSI on both rotors. I get a CEL of 3 and 38. I checked the resistance on my crank angle sensor and it's within SFM tolerance. I checked for the AWS solenoid and it's non-existent. On the backside of my UIM my BAP feeds into nothing but a fitting..no electronic harness, no nothing. I pulled the BAP and tested it's resistance and it's good. I tested the ACV harness and it reads 30 ohms, instead of the 16-20something that the FSM indicates.
Also I found that my Turbo Boost Pressure Control Duty Solenoid (the part sitting on the oil filler neck) had crimp and spliced wires. One of those crimps came loose and the wire was sitting unconnected.
I'm considering doing the rats nest mod but wanted to get a little bit of advice. Can the ACV be a contributing factor to bad idle. I've seen how-to's posted on emmisions removal, but not much on pro's and con's.
Thanks
11-19-07, 03:35 AM
#2
HAILERS
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I'm considering doing the rats nest mod but wanted to get a little bit of advice. Can the ACV be a contributing factor to bad idle. I've seen how-to's posted on emmisions removal, but not much on pro's and con's.
************************************************** *************
There's only one part of the internals of a ACV that has a passage to the intake. It's called a anti afterburn valve and diaphram. It is possible for this part to leak air into the intake. So spraying a little starter fluid into the airpump intake hose could give you a clue. IF the idle changes when you do that, then there is a leak internal to the ACV. I don't see any other passage from the ACV to the intake passage.
And yes, the ACV pumps air to the exhaust ports to make the mixuture leaner before it enters the catalytic converter. What the heck did you think the Port air is all about anyway? Jeez. To cool the cat? B.S.
************************************************** *************
There's only one part of the internals of a ACV that has a passage to the intake. It's called a anti afterburn valve and diaphram. It is possible for this part to leak air into the intake. So spraying a little starter fluid into the airpump intake hose could give you a clue. IF the idle changes when you do that, then there is a leak internal to the ACV. I don't see any other passage from the ACV to the intake passage.
And yes, the ACV pumps air to the exhaust ports to make the mixuture leaner before it enters the catalytic converter. What the heck did you think the Port air is all about anyway? Jeez. To cool the cat? B.S.
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-19-07 at 03:57 AM.
11-19-07, 04:22 AM
#3
I've got an 89 vert with a JDM 13BT swapped into it. I'm having multiple problems and getting into all the details would make this a very long post.
The short of it is, I'm having really bad idle issues. Car only runs if I keep the RPMs up, anytime I'm not the car stalls. I checked compression and got even bumps of around 90 PSI on both rotors. I get a CEL of 3 and 38. I checked the resistance on my crank angle sensor and it's within SFM tolerance. I checked for the AWS solenoid and it's non-existent. On the backside of my UIM my BAP feeds into nothing but a fitting..no electronic harness, no nothing. I pulled the BAP and tested it's resistance and it's good. I tested the ACV harness and it reads 30 ohms, instead of the 16-20something that the FSM indicates.
Also I found that my Turbo Boost Pressure Control Duty Solenoid (the part sitting on the oil filler neck) had crimp and spliced wires. One of those crimps came loose and the wire was sitting unconnected.
I'm considering doing the rats nest mod but wanted to get a little bit of advice. Can the ACV be a contributing factor to bad idle. I've seen how-to's posted on emmisions removal, but not much on pro's and con's.
Thanks
The short of it is, I'm having really bad idle issues. Car only runs if I keep the RPMs up, anytime I'm not the car stalls. I checked compression and got even bumps of around 90 PSI on both rotors. I get a CEL of 3 and 38. I checked the resistance on my crank angle sensor and it's within SFM tolerance. I checked for the AWS solenoid and it's non-existent. On the backside of my UIM my BAP feeds into nothing but a fitting..no electronic harness, no nothing. I pulled the BAP and tested it's resistance and it's good. I tested the ACV harness and it reads 30 ohms, instead of the 16-20something that the FSM indicates.
Also I found that my Turbo Boost Pressure Control Duty Solenoid (the part sitting on the oil filler neck) had crimp and spliced wires. One of those crimps came loose and the wire was sitting unconnected.
I'm considering doing the rats nest mod but wanted to get a little bit of advice. Can the ACV be a contributing factor to bad idle. I've seen how-to's posted on emmisions removal, but not much on pro's and con's.
Thanks
11-19-07, 04:31 AM
#4
There's only one part of the internals of a ACV that has a passage to the intake. It's called a anti afterburn valve and diaphram. It is possible for this part to leak air into the intake. So spraying a little starter fluid into the airpump intake hose could give you a clue. IF the idle changes when you do that, then there is a leak internal to the ACV. I don't see any other passage from the ACV to the intake passage.
11-19-07, 05:21 AM
#5
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Tell you what. There's two small holes on the mating side of the ACV that are anti afterburn related. In the past I've suggested just blocking those two holes with RTV so there is NO possibility of the airpump air getting into the intake. Works for me, BUT I've had a couple of guys I've suggested this to and they say it didn't work for them. I've no idea why it wouldn't work for them, but it didn't.
I see no other possible passages for airpump air to enter the intake manifold and effect idle, so it's something that makes me wonder just a little (why it didn't work for them).
On the whole, airpump air has zip to do with intake air. Only when you lift up on the pedal does the anti afterburn valve in the ACV open and put a bit of air to the intake. It's normally a closed anti afterburn section of the ACV. But old age can cause it to leak.
I see no other possible passages for airpump air to enter the intake manifold and effect idle, so it's something that makes me wonder just a little (why it didn't work for them).
On the whole, airpump air has zip to do with intake air. Only when you lift up on the pedal does the anti afterburn valve in the ACV open and put a bit of air to the intake. It's normally a closed anti afterburn section of the ACV. But old age can cause it to leak.
11-19-07, 02:56 PM
#6
I'm slowly learning about my engine as I'm driving it. Apparently I'm running with no air pump, but a single belt alternator pulley. No wonder I've been hearing belt squeals and broke my alternator belt on the hottest day of the summer...causing my radiator to blow it's top.
I've got a RB turbo back exhaust, no cat. I'm assuming I can just get an ACV blockoff plate and remove it all together? I've got a JDM S5 with no AWS on it. I'm a lil concerned about cold weather starting, I've never driving thru winter without one. What about adding an AWS? And a related question, the BAC, can it be removed without any consequence? I'll read more on the rats nest mod when I get home from work tonight, but if I remove the BAC and I have no AWS do I then cap the coolant line that fed into the BAC and also cap the line that fed into the back of the UIM from the BAC? Or do I run a hose bypassing the BAC and the AWS?
Any suggestions for a dual alternator pulley? Are they all the same with name brands simply being bling, bling bragging rights? Or are there actual performance differences? Point being, I'll pay extra if it's a performance issue, but I could care less if I have a name brand if all it is is a name.
Thanks for the advice
I've got a RB turbo back exhaust, no cat. I'm assuming I can just get an ACV blockoff plate and remove it all together? I've got a JDM S5 with no AWS on it. I'm a lil concerned about cold weather starting, I've never driving thru winter without one. What about adding an AWS? And a related question, the BAC, can it be removed without any consequence? I'll read more on the rats nest mod when I get home from work tonight, but if I remove the BAC and I have no AWS do I then cap the coolant line that fed into the BAC and also cap the line that fed into the back of the UIM from the BAC? Or do I run a hose bypassing the BAC and the AWS?
Any suggestions for a dual alternator pulley? Are they all the same with name brands simply being bling, bling bragging rights? Or are there actual performance differences? Point being, I'll pay extra if it's a performance issue, but I could care less if I have a name brand if all it is is a name.
Thanks for the advice
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11-20-07, 07:40 AM
#8
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Yeah. Remove it and block it off. Or install the present ACV with a piece of gasket paper b/t the ACV and manifold but no holes in the gasket paper. With no cats you have no need for the ACV. It's quite possible it is causing the vacuum leaks and only takes a few minutes to put a piece of solid gasket paper b/t it and the manifold to find out. You could do that while waiting/deciding on getting a blockoff plate.
You could make a blockoff plate out of a piece of metal with a hacksaw/bandsaw etc for close to nothing. BUT...the boost sensor gets its vacuum off a nipple on that ACV. You'd have to add a nipple to the new blockoff plate (common sense says the people who make these plates would have one on it) or tee into the other vacuum line that goes to the *blowoff valve* (forgot the proper name).
AWS only works for seventeen seconds during a Cold start and never again duing the day. It's meant to heat up the pre-cat to get it working faster during cold starts. So remove it since you don't have any catalytic converters.
The water line Attached to the side of the BAC carries water from the throttle body. That water is meant to heat up the waterthermowax on the throttle body. The water thermowax holds the throttle plates open a touch during cold starts so you will have an idle of approx 1100rpm when the engine is cold. After warming up the plates close fully and you then have a 750rpm give or take idle. That water path originates from a nipple on the back of the rear side housing and from there goes to a nipple on the bottom of the throttle body.....thru the water thermowax on the throttle body .......out to the nipple on the side of the BAC ......to return to a nipple on the back of the water pump housing.
I don't see any sense in removing the BAC. It helps maintain a idle of approx 750rpm especially if you put a load on the engine when sitting at a stop light etc.
I've no opinion on dual pulleys. I kinda wish someone had come out with just an idler pulley to replace the lack of the airpump. I had to make my own idler pulley/bracket instead. Usually people go with the dual pulleys.
IF you think this forum is slow on answers, try this forum http://www.teamfc3s.org/ on that one you'll have to wait days or weeks for an answer. Good forum but not very active imho.
NZCONVERTIBLE has in the past posted a jpg of the minimal amount of required vacuum lines needed. You might search around for it. That'd be related to your question about removing the vacuum rack.
Just FYI: the solenoids on the ACV have nothing to do with the idle problem. Especially since you have no airpump etc. One solenoid only opens when in fifth gear and the other, Port, does not feed into the intake air ever.
It sounds like someone has/had some of the vacuum lines going to the wrong spots or maber the vacuum lines to the oil injectors under the intake have fallen off or ???????
You could make a blockoff plate out of a piece of metal with a hacksaw/bandsaw etc for close to nothing. BUT...the boost sensor gets its vacuum off a nipple on that ACV. You'd have to add a nipple to the new blockoff plate (common sense says the people who make these plates would have one on it) or tee into the other vacuum line that goes to the *blowoff valve* (forgot the proper name).
AWS only works for seventeen seconds during a Cold start and never again duing the day. It's meant to heat up the pre-cat to get it working faster during cold starts. So remove it since you don't have any catalytic converters.
The water line Attached to the side of the BAC carries water from the throttle body. That water is meant to heat up the waterthermowax on the throttle body. The water thermowax holds the throttle plates open a touch during cold starts so you will have an idle of approx 1100rpm when the engine is cold. After warming up the plates close fully and you then have a 750rpm give or take idle. That water path originates from a nipple on the back of the rear side housing and from there goes to a nipple on the bottom of the throttle body.....thru the water thermowax on the throttle body .......out to the nipple on the side of the BAC ......to return to a nipple on the back of the water pump housing.
I don't see any sense in removing the BAC. It helps maintain a idle of approx 750rpm especially if you put a load on the engine when sitting at a stop light etc.
I've no opinion on dual pulleys. I kinda wish someone had come out with just an idler pulley to replace the lack of the airpump. I had to make my own idler pulley/bracket instead. Usually people go with the dual pulleys.
IF you think this forum is slow on answers, try this forum http://www.teamfc3s.org/ on that one you'll have to wait days or weeks for an answer. Good forum but not very active imho.
NZCONVERTIBLE has in the past posted a jpg of the minimal amount of required vacuum lines needed. You might search around for it. That'd be related to your question about removing the vacuum rack.
Just FYI: the solenoids on the ACV have nothing to do with the idle problem. Especially since you have no airpump etc. One solenoid only opens when in fifth gear and the other, Port, does not feed into the intake air ever.
It sounds like someone has/had some of the vacuum lines going to the wrong spots or maber the vacuum lines to the oil injectors under the intake have fallen off or ???????
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-20-07 at 07:58 AM.
11-20-07, 08:03 AM
#9
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On the backside of my UIM my BAP feeds into nothing but a fitting..no electronic harness, no nothing. I pulled the BAP ************************************************** *******
That confuses me a little. I've no real series five time, but your location of the BAC seems a little off. Check the FSM out or a Hayenes manual and make sure your talkig about a BAC and not a Air Supply Valve.
The BAC should be on the righthand side of the intake and the fwd part of the intake. The valve on the BACK of the throttle body is the Air Supply Valve used for input when the pwr steering is moved one way or the other. If the plug is off it, it'll just be a static display. On a series four it gets it's air supply from a nipple on the back of the intercooler. Then feeds that air to the intake manifold when the valve is switched open. No harness means it won't open.
Download the FUEL SECTION of the free, online FSM. Not the whole manual, just the Fuel section. Page F2-7 of the series five Turbo Fuel section shows the routing.
Page F2-3 shows most of the parts on the intake including the air supply valve.
You might look into that DUTY SOLENOID. Make sure the lines to it are routed right. I'm a little weak on series five turbo duty solenoid routing. Look at the Fuel Section of the online and free FSM.
ON the whole it sounds like something is misrouted on the engine.
That confuses me a little. I've no real series five time, but your location of the BAC seems a little off. Check the FSM out or a Hayenes manual and make sure your talkig about a BAC and not a Air Supply Valve.
The BAC should be on the righthand side of the intake and the fwd part of the intake. The valve on the BACK of the throttle body is the Air Supply Valve used for input when the pwr steering is moved one way or the other. If the plug is off it, it'll just be a static display. On a series four it gets it's air supply from a nipple on the back of the intercooler. Then feeds that air to the intake manifold when the valve is switched open. No harness means it won't open.
Download the FUEL SECTION of the free, online FSM. Not the whole manual, just the Fuel section. Page F2-7 of the series five Turbo Fuel section shows the routing.
Page F2-3 shows most of the parts on the intake including the air supply valve.
You might look into that DUTY SOLENOID. Make sure the lines to it are routed right. I'm a little weak on series five turbo duty solenoid routing. Look at the Fuel Section of the online and free FSM.
ON the whole it sounds like something is misrouted on the engine.
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-20-07 at 08:32 AM.
11-20-07, 11:57 AM
#10
Going to pick up a piece of gasket paper today and give it a shot.
I'm curious on the BAC. So it feeds from the throttle body to the BAC, or from the BAC to the throttle body?
I'm curious on the BAC. So it feeds from the throttle body to the BAC, or from the BAC to the throttle body?
Yeah. Remove it and block it off. Or install the present ACV with a piece of gasket paper b/t the ACV and manifold but no holes in the gasket paper. With no cats you have no need for the ACV. It's quite possible it is causing the vacuum leaks and only takes a few minutes to put a piece of solid gasket paper b/t it and the manifold to find out. You could do that while waiting/deciding on getting a blockoff plate.
You could make a blockoff plate out of a piece of metal with a hacksaw/bandsaw etc for close to nothing. BUT...the boost sensor gets its vacuum off a nipple on that ACV. You'd have to add a nipple to the new blockoff plate (common sense says the people who make these plates would have one on it) or tee into the other vacuum line that goes to the *blowoff valve* (forgot the proper name).
AWS only works for seventeen seconds during a Cold start and never again duing the day. It's meant to heat up the pre-cat to get it working faster during cold starts. So remove it since you don't have any catalytic converters.
The water line Attached to the side of the BAC carries water from the throttle body. That water is meant to heat up the waterthermowax on the throttle body. The water thermowax holds the throttle plates open a touch during cold starts so you will have an idle of approx 1100rpm when the engine is cold. After warming up the plates close fully and you then have a 750rpm give or take idle. That water path originates from a nipple on the back of the rear side housing and from there goes to a nipple on the bottom of the throttle body.....thru the water thermowax on the throttle body .......out to the nipple on the side of the BAC ......to return to a nipple on the back of the water pump housing.
I don't see any sense in removing the BAC. It helps maintain a idle of approx 750rpm especially if you put a load on the engine when sitting at a stop light etc.
I've no opinion on dual pulleys. I kinda wish someone had come out with just an idler pulley to replace the lack of the airpump. I had to make my own idler pulley/bracket instead. Usually people go with the dual pulleys.
IF you think this forum is slow on answers, try this forum http://www.teamfc3s.org/ on that one you'll have to wait days or weeks for an answer. Good forum but not very active imho.
NZCONVERTIBLE has in the past posted a jpg of the minimal amount of required vacuum lines needed. You might search around for it. That'd be related to your question about removing the vacuum rack.
Just FYI: the solenoids on the ACV have nothing to do with the idle problem. Especially since you have no airpump etc. One solenoid only opens when in fifth gear and the other, Port, does not feed into the intake air ever.
It sounds like someone has/had some of the vacuum lines going to the wrong spots or maber the vacuum lines to the oil injectors under the intake have fallen off or ???????
You could make a blockoff plate out of a piece of metal with a hacksaw/bandsaw etc for close to nothing. BUT...the boost sensor gets its vacuum off a nipple on that ACV. You'd have to add a nipple to the new blockoff plate (common sense says the people who make these plates would have one on it) or tee into the other vacuum line that goes to the *blowoff valve* (forgot the proper name).
AWS only works for seventeen seconds during a Cold start and never again duing the day. It's meant to heat up the pre-cat to get it working faster during cold starts. So remove it since you don't have any catalytic converters.
The water line Attached to the side of the BAC carries water from the throttle body. That water is meant to heat up the waterthermowax on the throttle body. The water thermowax holds the throttle plates open a touch during cold starts so you will have an idle of approx 1100rpm when the engine is cold. After warming up the plates close fully and you then have a 750rpm give or take idle. That water path originates from a nipple on the back of the rear side housing and from there goes to a nipple on the bottom of the throttle body.....thru the water thermowax on the throttle body .......out to the nipple on the side of the BAC ......to return to a nipple on the back of the water pump housing.
I don't see any sense in removing the BAC. It helps maintain a idle of approx 750rpm especially if you put a load on the engine when sitting at a stop light etc.
I've no opinion on dual pulleys. I kinda wish someone had come out with just an idler pulley to replace the lack of the airpump. I had to make my own idler pulley/bracket instead. Usually people go with the dual pulleys.
IF you think this forum is slow on answers, try this forum http://www.teamfc3s.org/ on that one you'll have to wait days or weeks for an answer. Good forum but not very active imho.
NZCONVERTIBLE has in the past posted a jpg of the minimal amount of required vacuum lines needed. You might search around for it. That'd be related to your question about removing the vacuum rack.
Just FYI: the solenoids on the ACV have nothing to do with the idle problem. Especially since you have no airpump etc. One solenoid only opens when in fifth gear and the other, Port, does not feed into the intake air ever.
It sounds like someone has/had some of the vacuum lines going to the wrong spots or maber the vacuum lines to the oil injectors under the intake have fallen off or ???????
11-20-07, 12:07 PM
#11
Sorry about the confusion. My BAC sits on the passenger side of UIM just above the ACV and points towards the front bumper and firewall. There is a coolant line that feeds from the BAC to a fitting on the backside of the UIM. The FSM and Haynes show that it should be feeding into a AWS, but mine is just a fitting. The FSM and Haynes show an AWS with a wiring harness and such. There is no wiring harness to be found on my car.
About the misrouting. The shop that did my swap was able to swap pins on my N/A harness. At the time saving a few bucks by not buying a T2 harness sounded great. Now that I'm trying to learn and self-diagnos problems, it's not sounding so good. The car is going to Banzai sometime in January so they can give the car a once over.
About the misrouting. The shop that did my swap was able to swap pins on my N/A harness. At the time saving a few bucks by not buying a T2 harness sounded great. Now that I'm trying to learn and self-diagnos problems, it's not sounding so good. The car is going to Banzai sometime in January so they can give the car a once over.
On the backside of my UIM my BAP feeds into nothing but a fitting..no electronic harness, no nothing. I pulled the BAP ************************************************** *******
That confuses me a little. I've no real series five time, but your location of the BAC seems a little off. Check the FSM out or a Hayenes manual and make sure your talkig about a BAC and not a Air Supply Valve.
The BAC should be on the righthand side of the intake and the fwd part of the intake. The valve on the BACK of the throttle body is the Air Supply Valve used for input when the pwr steering is moved one way or the other. If the plug is off it, it'll just be a static display. On a series four it gets it's air supply from a nipple on the back of the intercooler. Then feeds that air to the intake manifold when the valve is switched open. No harness means it won't open.
Download the FUEL SECTION of the free, online FSM. Not the whole manual, just the Fuel section. Page F2-7 of the series five Turbo Fuel section shows the routing.
Page F2-3 shows most of the parts on the intake including the air supply valve.
You might look into that DUTY SOLENOID. Make sure the lines to it are routed right. I'm a little weak on series five turbo duty solenoid routing. Look at the Fuel Section of the online and free FSM.
ON the whole it sounds like something is misrouted on the engine.
That confuses me a little. I've no real series five time, but your location of the BAC seems a little off. Check the FSM out or a Hayenes manual and make sure your talkig about a BAC and not a Air Supply Valve.
The BAC should be on the righthand side of the intake and the fwd part of the intake. The valve on the BACK of the throttle body is the Air Supply Valve used for input when the pwr steering is moved one way or the other. If the plug is off it, it'll just be a static display. On a series four it gets it's air supply from a nipple on the back of the intercooler. Then feeds that air to the intake manifold when the valve is switched open. No harness means it won't open.
Download the FUEL SECTION of the free, online FSM. Not the whole manual, just the Fuel section. Page F2-7 of the series five Turbo Fuel section shows the routing.
Page F2-3 shows most of the parts on the intake including the air supply valve.
You might look into that DUTY SOLENOID. Make sure the lines to it are routed right. I'm a little weak on series five turbo duty solenoid routing. Look at the Fuel Section of the online and free FSM.
ON the whole it sounds like something is misrouted on the engine.
11-26-07, 02:43 PM
#13
Well I blocked off the ACV using a sheet of gasket cutdown to size. One complication that you touched on was that my aftermarket boost sensor is now blocked off, as well as the smallest of the lines feeding in/out of my OEM BOV. The closest other vacuum line is one coming from the UIM that goes to my boost pressure sensor. Can that line be tapped into for both my aftermarket boost sensor and my OEM BOV? Also my boost pressure sensor has a part numbe of N390, is that the correct part for a S5 TII? I thought those parts were N370?
11-26-07, 03:29 PM
#14
HAILERS
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About the ACV and using a gasket to block it off.....................your concerned with the nipple on the ACV that feeds the boost/pressure sensor. So simply make a hole in the new blockoff gasket to match that nipple. Problem solved.
EDIT: I must be misunderstanding you. The ACV has but ONE nipple that feeds vacuum. That nipple originally fed the boost/pressure sensor near the right hand strut tower. That was the only thing it fed.
The original, stock *blowoff valve* (called another thing in the FSM) got fed vacuum from a nipple on the intake manifold, somewhere just aft of the bac. I might give a better description later.
I've never seen a JDM engine so maybe they have the vacuum locations for the BOV somewhere else.
EDIT: Yes, tap into that other hose to feed both boost sensor and BOV. But also consider that you just have to make a small hole in the ACV gasket opposite the nipple. Nipple near the top of the ACV and sticks straight out towards the fender.
EDIT: I must be misunderstanding you. The ACV has but ONE nipple that feeds vacuum. That nipple originally fed the boost/pressure sensor near the right hand strut tower. That was the only thing it fed.
The original, stock *blowoff valve* (called another thing in the FSM) got fed vacuum from a nipple on the intake manifold, somewhere just aft of the bac. I might give a better description later.
I've never seen a JDM engine so maybe they have the vacuum locations for the BOV somewhere else.
EDIT: Yes, tap into that other hose to feed both boost sensor and BOV. But also consider that you just have to make a small hole in the ACV gasket opposite the nipple. Nipple near the top of the ACV and sticks straight out towards the fender.
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-26-07 at 03:36 PM.
11-26-07, 03:43 PM
#15
I thought of that also, but the line is right there and could more easily spliced and tee'd off. I just wanted to find out if that line to the N390 boost pressure sensor is safe to tap into.
How important is the smallest of the vacuum lines going to the OEM BOV. Will it being blocked off effect the idle?
I'm going to start a seperate thread looking for my N390 boost pressure sensor question. It seems like if N350 parts are N/A and N370 are TII, that N390 would be 3rd Gen.
It doesn't seem like my ACV has a vacuum leak that's causing my bad idle and stalling. Unless the gasket I rigged up is leaking also, but it passed the carb cleaner test.
How important is the smallest of the vacuum lines going to the OEM BOV. Will it being blocked off effect the idle?
I'm going to start a seperate thread looking for my N390 boost pressure sensor question. It seems like if N350 parts are N/A and N370 are TII, that N390 would be 3rd Gen.
It doesn't seem like my ACV has a vacuum leak that's causing my bad idle and stalling. Unless the gasket I rigged up is leaking also, but it passed the carb cleaner test.
11-26-07, 03:50 PM
#16
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Yeah. You need the vacuum line going to the BOV. So just splice into the line you have going to the boost sensor.
I know the electrical output of a n/a boost/pressure sensor is quite a bit different than that of a Turbo boost/pressure sensor and will effect the idle some. I know nothing of N390 boost sensors. I guess I'll do a Search.
I know the electrical output of a n/a boost/pressure sensor is quite a bit different than that of a Turbo boost/pressure sensor and will effect the idle some. I know nothing of N390 boost sensors. I guess I'll do a Search.
11-26-07, 03:59 PM
#17
My choice of words probably isn't helping with misunderstanding. I'm using aftermarket boost sensor to mean the fitting that feeds to my electronic Greddy boost gauge in the cockpit of the car. And the N390 boost pressure sensor I was meaning the small box mounted on the strut tower. My apologies for confusing matters.
I have a diff. setup than you described. I have that one nipple on the ACV you're refering to feeding my Greddy boost gauge and the small line on the OEM BOV (whateer the FSM calls it). Then my N390 boost pressure sensor is fed by the nipple aft of the BAC. Also I have a FCD which I may remove till I upgrade my fuel system and fuel pump. From what I've read boosting above factory specs without upgrades to the fuel system causes the engine to run lean at high boost..which seems like a recipe for disaster.
A part of my problem is that I had a shop perform my JDM TII swap and they switched pins around on my N/A harness. The rotary tech is no longer with that shop so getting feedback on my car is impossible. Which is compounded by me being new to rotaries and learning my way. Currently my car is undriveable and I've got an appt with Banzai Racing in mid Jan. for a once over. Get their help figuring out my N/A harness wiring changes. Having the car driveable would save several hundred in renting a hauler and paying for diesel. I bought a TII harness which is enroute..just in case Banzai decides it's best to get rid of the N/A harness.
I have a diff. setup than you described. I have that one nipple on the ACV you're refering to feeding my Greddy boost gauge and the small line on the OEM BOV (whateer the FSM calls it). Then my N390 boost pressure sensor is fed by the nipple aft of the BAC. Also I have a FCD which I may remove till I upgrade my fuel system and fuel pump. From what I've read boosting above factory specs without upgrades to the fuel system causes the engine to run lean at high boost..which seems like a recipe for disaster.
A part of my problem is that I had a shop perform my JDM TII swap and they switched pins around on my N/A harness. The rotary tech is no longer with that shop so getting feedback on my car is impossible. Which is compounded by me being new to rotaries and learning my way. Currently my car is undriveable and I've got an appt with Banzai Racing in mid Jan. for a once over. Get their help figuring out my N/A harness wiring changes. Having the car driveable would save several hundred in renting a hauler and paying for diesel. I bought a TII harness which is enroute..just in case Banzai decides it's best to get rid of the N/A harness.
About the ACV and using a gasket to block it off.....................your concerned with the nipple on the ACV that feeds the boost/pressure sensor. So simply make a hole in the new blockoff gasket to match that nipple. Problem solved.
EDIT: I must be misunderstanding you. The ACV has but ONE nipple that feeds vacuum. That nipple originally fed the boost/pressure sensor near the right hand strut tower. That was the only thing it fed.
The original, stock *blowoff valve* (called another thing in the FSM) got fed vacuum from a nipple on the intake manifold, somewhere just aft of the bac. I might give a better description later.
I've never seen a JDM engine so maybe they have the vacuum locations for the BOV somewhere else.
EDIT: Yes, tap into that other hose to feed both boost sensor and BOV. But also consider that you just have to make a small hole in the ACV gasket opposite the nipple. Nipple near the top of the ACV and sticks straight out towards the fender.
EDIT: I must be misunderstanding you. The ACV has but ONE nipple that feeds vacuum. That nipple originally fed the boost/pressure sensor near the right hand strut tower. That was the only thing it fed.
The original, stock *blowoff valve* (called another thing in the FSM) got fed vacuum from a nipple on the intake manifold, somewhere just aft of the bac. I might give a better description later.
I've never seen a JDM engine so maybe they have the vacuum locations for the BOV somewhere else.
EDIT: Yes, tap into that other hose to feed both boost sensor and BOV. But also consider that you just have to make a small hole in the ACV gasket opposite the nipple. Nipple near the top of the ACV and sticks straight out towards the fender.
11-26-07, 03:59 PM
#18
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FYI.....Mazda calls the BOV the Air Bypass Valve. The Fuel and Emissions sections of the factory service manual are downloadable from this site. See the FAQ thread at the beginning of this 2nd gen site.
EDIT:
OOps. I forgot you had a series five. I *cut* what I wrote in this space. It was series four stuff.
EDIT AGAIN: Seems if memory serves, there isn't much difference b/t turbo and non turbo EM series FIVE harnesses. Just a wire or maybe two.
EDIT:
OOps. I forgot you had a series five. I *cut* what I wrote in this space. It was series four stuff.
EDIT AGAIN: Seems if memory serves, there isn't much difference b/t turbo and non turbo EM series FIVE harnesses. Just a wire or maybe two.
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-26-07 at 04:11 PM.
11-26-07, 04:00 PM
#19
Yeah. You need the vacuum line going to the BOV. So just splice into the line you have going to the boost sensor.
I know the electrical output of a n/a boost/pressure sensor is quite a bit different than that of a Turbo boost/pressure sensor and will effect the idle some. I know nothing of N390 boost sensors. I guess I'll do a Search.
I know the electrical output of a n/a boost/pressure sensor is quite a bit different than that of a Turbo boost/pressure sensor and will effect the idle some. I know nothing of N390 boost sensors. I guess I'll do a Search.
11-26-07, 04:17 PM
#20
hehe, yeah I use the online FSMs, I'm just feeling too lazy to go look up the actual name. We both knew the part we were talking about so I wasn't sweating it. Thx for the info though.
It would be very nice if I ended up not needing the TII harness and could turn around and sell it. Thanks for all your help today, I need to head to work....gotta pay for my rotary
Maybe tomorrow I can get some pics of my ACV and BOV/ABV, make this thread a little easier.
It would be very nice if I ended up not needing the TII harness and could turn around and sell it. Thanks for all your help today, I need to head to work....gotta pay for my rotary
Maybe tomorrow I can get some pics of my ACV and BOV/ABV, make this thread a little easier.
FYI.....Mazda calls the BOV the Air Bypass Valve. The Fuel and Emissions sections of the factory service manual are downloadable from this site. See the FAQ thread at the beginning of this 2nd gen site.
EDIT:
OOps. I forgot you had a series five. I *cut* what I wrote in this space. It was series four stuff.
EDIT AGAIN: Seems if memory serves, there isn't much difference b/t turbo and non turbo EM series FIVE harnesses. Just a wire or maybe two.
EDIT:
OOps. I forgot you had a series five. I *cut* what I wrote in this space. It was series four stuff.
EDIT AGAIN: Seems if memory serves, there isn't much difference b/t turbo and non turbo EM series FIVE harnesses. Just a wire or maybe two.
11-26-07, 04:32 PM
#21
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As long as you original car was NOT a automatic, then there are but two wires in the n/a harness that need attention to.
Pin 2M is used for the VDI solenoid on a non turbo car. On a Turbo it's used for the Knock sensor.
Pin 3R is used for the 6 P system on a non turbo (auxillay ports) and on a Turbo its used for the Duty Solenoid for the Turbo itself. This in particular sounds important to me if it got plumpbed wrong. I'm talking about the hose that goes b/t the turbo and the Duty solenoid. Could cause a leak of some sort. Plus he would have had to add a Duty solenoid to the engine. NEVER done that myself. I'm series four oriented.
Several people in the past have noted those are the only two wires of any significance b/t a turbo and a non turbo EM harness. Like NZCONVERTIBLE.
I just compared the pinouts in the online FSM for turbo vs non turbo series five cars and those two are what I come up with.
BANZI should be able to figue this out for you pretty easily.
Pin 2M is used for the VDI solenoid on a non turbo car. On a Turbo it's used for the Knock sensor.
Pin 3R is used for the 6 P system on a non turbo (auxillay ports) and on a Turbo its used for the Duty Solenoid for the Turbo itself. This in particular sounds important to me if it got plumpbed wrong. I'm talking about the hose that goes b/t the turbo and the Duty solenoid. Could cause a leak of some sort. Plus he would have had to add a Duty solenoid to the engine. NEVER done that myself. I'm series four oriented.
Several people in the past have noted those are the only two wires of any significance b/t a turbo and a non turbo EM harness. Like NZCONVERTIBLE.
I just compared the pinouts in the online FSM for turbo vs non turbo series five cars and those two are what I come up with.
BANZI should be able to figue this out for you pretty easily.
11-27-07, 10:53 PM
#22
Well I believe the car is up and running!! I spliced into the vacuum line that is feeding the boost pressure sensor. I fed the BOV/ABV from that hose and the car is purring like a kitten again. The car has been garaged away from home and it was late so I didn't want to drive the car home and find another problem..or that the problem wasn't indeed fixed. I had to leave my aftermarket boost gauge with no vacuum cause I didn't have anymore splitters. Tomorrow when I have sunlight I'll get another splitter and take it for a drive.
Thanks for all your help and advice. I believe the immediate problem is fixed and it can be driven to Banzai for all the other details.
Thanks for all your help and advice. I believe the immediate problem is fixed and it can be driven to Banzai for all the other details.
12-10-07, 12:27 PM
#23
Strange I posted but must have gotten some kind of glitch in the server, it never showed. Forgive if I end up posting twice...
I've got my blockoff plate, does anyone know the size/thred of the studs that hold the ACV on? I'm simply trying to save myself a trip backout to the store once I pull the studs off. I once found an archive of bolt/thread sizes but can't seem to find it now.
I've got my blockoff plate, does anyone know the size/thred of the studs that hold the ACV on? I'm simply trying to save myself a trip backout to the store once I pull the studs off. I once found an archive of bolt/thread sizes but can't seem to find it now.
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