mguire

Can anyone tell me how the ACV works? I know it routs air to the split air pipe, port air, or air dump tube, but under what conditions does it send air to the air dump? (Acceleration, deceleration, etc.)

(I'm looking for some pressure to open up my 6ports under load and > 4k rpm (86 NA). The split air pipe doesn't generate enough pressure (exhaust mods), and the pressure in the tube between the air pump and ACV fluctuates too much (surges on deceleration).)

Thanks,

Eric

billy

i have been looking for the answer to the my self.


billy

Sniper_X

I know that theres a RPM switch that opens electric servos available.

I cant remember where I saw it, but it would remove the dependancy on the exhaust pressure.

mguire

Electronic servo's -too expensive and too much work to custom fit.

mguire

Ok, the acv dumps air to the air dump tube during acceleration, and this works well for opening up the 6ports. In my case, I had to slightly increase the back pressure in the dump tube to get them to open at the right rpm. Simple fix!

billy

how did you increase the pressure?


billy

hyperdaddy7

yeah how did you do that?

mguire

a) I cut the fitting that I plumbed into the tube at a 45 degree angle (pointing towards the ACV) to "scoup" the air

b) Put a hose clamp on the outlet (black tube, ~1 1/4 inch diameter under the front right bumper) and tighten it until the backpressure increases sufficiently.

billy

im going to have to try that.
is there anyway you can get some pics or maybe a full write up? i would love that.
thanks man
billy

mguire

I'll probably have time this weekend to take a couple pics and give a write-up. I'll post it under "6 port accuation with the ACV"

billy

mguire .... thanks very much that woyuld help out a hole lot.


thanks
billy

HAILERS

1. Get a spare solenoid valve off a wrecked car. Five bucks. 2. Buy a vacuum barbed pipe at PepBoys. 3/16 ths dia. 3. Buy five feet of 18 gauge wire. 4. Buy Three feet of vacuum hose. 5. Stick the 3/16 vac barb in the middle of the acv INLET hose. 6. Mount the spare solenoid valve on the r/h fender somewhere. 7. Run the vac hose from the 3/16 barb to the inlet on the spare solenoid valce. Run another vac hose from the outlet of the solenoid valve to the auxillary actuator inlet pipe. 8. Run two wires from the spare solenoid to the two wires that are present on the RELIEF SOLENOID VALVE. Thats the Blue one. 9. The RELIEF SOLENOID VALVE gets a ground on it from the ECU anytime 3500 rpm is reached. Now that you have your new spare solenoid patched to the Relief solenoid valve, it too will open at 3500 rpm and port air from the inlet hose on the acv, thru the spare solenoid valve to the inlet port for the auxillary actuators. 10. You can rev this outfit in the driveway and it will open each and eveytime the rpm hits 3500rpm. 11. The cost shouldn't be more than five to ten bucks. It will work each and everytime. 12. For the guy who will say that they are supposed to open at 3800 rpm, not 3500rpm, I'll bet a bucket of beer that you can't tell 3500 rpm from 3800 rpm if I put a blindfold on you. 13. The above is nothing more than a cheap copycat of the way the newer (after 88) cars work. Well, similar anyway. 14. And no, the 3/16 barb will not blow out of the acv INLET hose if you make the hole in the hose a touch smaller than 3/16th. The air pump is an impotent device that can barely blow up a balloon and eats up probably 1/200th of a horse power. Puts out maybe 5psi max on a good day.

HAILERS

A jpg of the parts:Except the plastic barb should just be a straight pipe, not the tee shown. Also should have a plug for the solenoid valve, but not required. Could use some common auto connectors to connect to the two blades on the solenoid. Can either solder the connections to the two relief solenoid wires or use wire taps on the two wires at the relief solenoid.

billy

HAILERS....thank you very much for that info ill see if i can do it this weekend. i think i know were i can get that spare solenoid valve from. i know im going to get flamed for this, but were is the solenoid located?
thanks for the wright up

billy

HAILERS

On the drivers side of the engine you've got four of them on a rack. One with a blue connector, one with a grey connector, one with a orange connector, and another one who's color I cannot remember. Anyway, they are plastic and pull right off the rail they are on. You want to get one that looks just like the jpg that I'm attaching. There are two types of solenoid valves and you can tell the differences by the arrangement of where they placed the inlet and outlet nipples. If you get one that looks just like the one in the jpg, your good to go. That one in the jpg is for the fuel pressure regulator and if its on an engine, it will have an orange connector on it. Frankly speaking you could use that one(fuel pressure regulator solenoid) that is on your car presently. Just remove it from its rail and install anywhere you want on the other side of the engine. Take the vac hose that went to it in its original place, and just couple both of the hose together. The fuel pressure regulator sees direct vac or manifold pressure 99.9 percent of the time anyway. You'll never know its gone and neither will the engine.

HAILERS

Billy....here is a jpg of the type of solenoid that is not desired. Compare this picture with the one I attached earlier. Notice where the nipples are on the two solenoids. This type soleniod in this picture, will not pass air from one nipple to the other if there is a loss of a ground and or 12v source to it, which would make it undesireable for opening the aux actuators. You NEED to get an electrical plug for the valve also, but you can do without that by buying some connectors that will slip over the blades on the solenoid without touching each other and shorting out..