Are ABS and non-ABS brake boosters the same?
As the question states, I just need to know if they're interchangeable.
Wasn't happy with my leaky ABS unit, so I decided to bypass it.
I used the worthless mazdatrix ABS delete setup from spare parts, and the car won't stop for crap. Just locks the rears up occasionally.
...Now I'm trying to swap out the front hard lines, master, and proportioning valve for non-ABS ones...
But will I also have to replace/swap out my current ABS booster?
I'd just like to know my total parts list before I post in the classifieds.
Thanks guys
Wasn't happy with my leaky ABS unit, so I decided to bypass it.
I used the worthless mazdatrix ABS delete setup from spare parts, and the car won't stop for crap. Just locks the rears up occasionally.
...Now I'm trying to swap out the front hard lines, master, and proportioning valve for non-ABS ones...
But will I also have to replace/swap out my current ABS booster?
I'd just like to know my total parts list before I post in the classifieds.
Thanks guys
I could imagine that trying to SWAP IN abs would be a nightmare lol. But i'm just complaining i guess.
Swapping in abs would prove to be difficult particularly because of the parts you need...
all the hardlines, master cylinder, booster, abs-computer, etc.
And good luck finding a ABS-unit that doesn't leak. Thats why I took mine out
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The answer is yes and no. It's a different booster on base model cars. Cars that had the 4 piston calipers all have the same boosters. The boosters on single piston caliper equipped cars are smaller.
Base model boosters (single piston calipers) are single diaphragm, the rest are twins.
If the OP is going to redo the entire system, I'd recommend he go to the larger booster/MC of a 929, Maxima, Acura or (my personal fave) Subaru Legacy.
Two hints...
Try to get the combo as a pair, that way you don't have to set the pushrod/MC clearance which isn't technically difficult but somewhat of a PITA without special tools.
No matter what, you'll have to use the FC clevis on the pedal.
Stock boosters have 10mm input shafts, many of the others are only 8mm.
You can adapt the stock 10mm clevis to an 8mm shaft by simply screwing a 8mm Helicoil into the clevis...no drilling/tapping required, it just screws in.
If the OP is going to redo the entire system, I'd recommend he go to the larger booster/MC of a 929, Maxima, Acura or (my personal fave) Subaru Legacy.
Two hints...
Try to get the combo as a pair, that way you don't have to set the pushrod/MC clearance which isn't technically difficult but somewhat of a PITA without special tools.
No matter what, you'll have to use the FC clevis on the pedal.
Stock boosters have 10mm input shafts, many of the others are only 8mm.
You can adapt the stock 10mm clevis to an 8mm shaft by simply screwing a 8mm Helicoil into the clevis...no drilling/tapping required, it just screws in.
You don't have abs. Even if you did, the way to tell visually would be to look next to the intake manifold on the passenger side of the car. This is where the abs plumbing is located.
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Jeff20B
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thanks
