Janusz

Normally when I started to drive after speed reaches to about 10-15 km/h I used to hear abs motor pump sound for 1-2 sec. and everything was ok with ABS. Now when I started to drive after speed reches to about 10-15 km/h I hear motor pump sound for 30-40 sec. and after that ABS light is ON during drive. Car wasn`t use for 8 months but now I change brake fluid according to workshop manual book, I checked all brakes, cleaned speed sensors (there were a lot of particles of metal), cleaned rotors, I removed and cleaned valve relay and motor relay in ABS... unfortunately nothing change.
Of course I can drive with this but I really do not like when something do not work properly in my car.
Any ideas?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

they tend to fail. Replacing the system is so expensive that the couple of people I have met with ABS have bypassed it.

Janusz

Hmm but I really would like to solve this problem... any other ideas?

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Well, actually, no. There is no rebuilding the unit, and new ones cost around $2500 (US).... almost if not more than the value of the car. I bypassed mine, and have fun when I have to slam the brakes and the tail slides out

eage8

iTrader: (9)

yeah, mine was over-riden when I got my car. It works fine, I haven't had any issues. As long as you don't slam on your breaks in the rain, you won't really notice.

you only have 3 options:

a) pay $2500 for a new ABS pump
b) pay $37 for a bypass kit from mazdatrix: http://mazdatrix.com/j-3brake.htm
c) buy a ABS pump from a junkyard if you can find one and hope it works.


does anyone know where I could get a SS line for the ABS override instead of the normal rubber one mazdatrix sells?

No_love_for_pistons

iTrader: (4)

Yup... my ABS module is on the way out. You can bypass it with a T fitting, but like texFCturboII told me, you may need something to regulate the pressure to each wheel.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

that's what the proportioning valve is for, which is not part of the ABS pump. it's right next to your brake master cylinder.

you need a t-fitting and also a flex line like the mazdatrix kit has.

Janusz

Thank you now I know more... but dispel my doubts...am I right that when ABS light is ON my brakes works like normal brakes and I can slam the brakes on e.g. icy road?
So how this bypass kit works and in what way it can help during braking? What is a difference in braking with this kit?

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Well I wouldn't recommend slamming the brakes on an icy road ever, lol. But then again, I'm from texas, and the slightest amount of ice on the road and it's like everyone behind the wheel down here is six years old and retarded, lol. When the ABS light is constantly on, then the unit is not working. When it comes on during hard braking, then it is working. The bypass kit basically just loops the brake lines from the master cylinder. "Bypassing" the ABS unit. And it really won't help much during braking, unless you are trying to drift going into a left hand turn, because without some type of brake balancer along with the bypass kit your tail end is going to come out to the right every time you really have to mash the brakes. I think this is because the driver front brake caliper is closer to the master cylinder...Depending on your application, ABS is going to be the way to go; however if you are a super tyte jdm dorifto machine then you know that "No ABS can compete with a competent driver"