make one

 

its election time. tons of free coroplast

 

Got an under tray, will be mounting shortly. Thanks. If this doesn't do it I will be venting the hood.

 

Mounting the radiator horizontally also seems like a doable idea?

 

Better off with a v-mount, and keep the radiator where it sits, sure ubwont have the cool front mount look but you'll have a much cooler running engine

 

I ran without an underbelly and my temp gauge was broken, when I took my motor apart, the water pump blades were split into 3 pieces

 

Just spent all that money on doing the piping too, that's life!

 

At least u can probably use the same pipes just cut em down lol

 

UNderstray and make sure that rad is shrouded in! that's about all you can do.

Don't go cutting up the hood unless you buy or borrow a manometer to figure out where the high and low pressures are. You could just make it worse.

Try a Mishimoto racing t-stat
Thermostats
opens earlier, and has a bigger opening. There was a thread by Manzai on here recently.

My na with big e-fan, Koyorad, stock tstat was running 220-230F in 110F track day, speeds 60-120mph. At that speed the cooling system better dam well work. It was not, and that was on a wimpy na. I'm trying the t-stat and Evans next.

 

My motor is an s4 t2 motor, the next thermostat opens at 71* instead of 82*, not much difference. I am going to try the water wetter as well as the undertray.

 

Of course you should install an undertray and check for obvious mechanical issues (air in the system, etc). But if I'm readin this right, you're complaining about 98C water temperatures?

 

98*c water temps cruising in low 70* weather. I picked up an under tray yesterday. I will be mounting that and already burped the system. I am also thinking about Evans npg. I am running 50/50 and distilled water. The microtech was warning me about my temp so I am a bit worried.

 

Evans won't make your coolant gauge run lower. In my experience, the gauge will likely run a couple of degrees higher.

It will theoretically will make the internal surface temps lower on the inner side of the coolant jacket.

It will also refuse to boil (at any temp you can reach) or even after boil after a hard run.

Airflow is your issue and the large intercooler is the likely cause.

Good Luck!

 

Venting the hood wont help out at all? I'm
Trying to avoid redoing the ic set up again.

 

Sure, if you vent it like this......
Justin

 

I noticed under the hood theres bracing. I was thinking of cutting out the sections that aren't braced. I am talking about 4 sections, 2 up front and each side? It's a steel hood.

 

Hears the deal. If you build a "box" around the radiator like the above pic to direct the airflow threw the radiator and out of the hood vent, then yes a hood vent will help. But if you just vent your hood without a way to direct the airflow threw the radiator and out the vent, then no its pointless and the vent is just a hole in your hood. I say help because, IMHO, your problem is the HUGE front mount on your car.
Justin

 

It's a 31x12x4 ic, I'm still wondering on how guys with fmic don't have the issues I do? My buddy is having the same issue with a smaller ic, I guess it's just Florida!

 

You seem willing to go to extreme lengths avoiding the original problem, which IS the IC.

BTW, I've seen hoods vented as you propose and they look pretty nifty but I still don't think that solves your problem.

 

I was reading here on the forum people that have gone vmount, there temps did not improve. I'd like to daily the car thats why I'm trying to get the temps in the 80's

 

For what it's worth, I ran a bigass Greddy front mount intercooler with Fluidyne radiator for years. I used an efan from a Pontiac 6000, same that Aaron Cake uses. I had the original plastic undertray on there. My water temperatures would max out between 95-100C in the kind of driving I was doing.

Do what you can to improve it. If you notice temperatures quickly spiking, or running sustained over 100-105C I would start to get concerned. You realize that Rx-8's don't kick the fans on until 97C? and FD's don't kick the fans on until 105C? The FD temperatures are higher than we would like, but a lot of engines have been running like that for years.

and I can list piston engines that run sustained temperatures in the 105-108C range all day long...

if you lose an engine, it'll probably be from a boost spike or fuel starvation, not from running cooler than your uncle's GMC pickup truck. just sayin'

 

Are you running a v mount now? Temp changed by how much? Thanks

 

temp change isnt dependent so much on radiator size. its more dependent on the thermostat./

also, idling you should be at 80C and cruising should be around 90 to 95C.

 

I am running a new oem s4 thermostat as well as a new Koyo N flow with the Taurus E Fan on high. I have not drilled out any holes in the thermostat as I have read some people do to help? I also have not mounted the under tray yet, but will before I move the car again. I am also thinking about boxing in the radiator to a opening in the hood. I thought about mounting a pusher fan in front of the radiator but was told it would only cause turbulence and not help at all? Thanks

At 98*c my Microtech is warning me already about temps.

 

thats kinda high, but not so much.

what you are doing is going about it all wrong.

your cooling ability is on par. if you arent overheating in the driveway, you are good. when driving, you want as much ambient air forced into your radiator as possible in a natural way. a fan is never EVER going to push more air into your radiator than ambient air will be forced into it. now, what ducting does is maximize the amount of air that gets through it. lowering temps via thermostats isnt the right way to go about it at all. a bigger radiator is good, to a certain point.

like i said. get an undertray and drive around with that on. if the foam on the oil cooler is ok, use it, but install new foam. easy. craft store. and then cut a length of it and glue it. simple.

usually the simplest fix, is the best. PUT AN UNDERTRAY ON!!!