Under tray is on and I'm still seeing the 99* c on the screen. The warning light on the microtech is flashing. Would dual oil coolers, each placed at the fog light opening help cool down the car? I also cut the front bumper where the trim is to help air in.

 

I <del>am pleased as punch</del> hate to say "I told you so" but I ******* well did...three weeks ago.

Would it be possible to temporarily remove the intercooler and run (easily) the car?
That would tell you right away how to proceed.

What's your current oil temp?
I know roadracers augment the oil system but you seem to be having problems just tooling around, not doing much of anything. And of course, the current oil cooler is being starved of airflow just like the radiator...fix one and you've probably fixed the other.

 

Stealing this line, Friends Don't Let Friends Front Mount!!! Especially if it's that big.
I would try Clokker's advice first just to give you a baseline. I know it sucks but your probably going to have to re-fab you intercooler back to a top mount or v-mount. This is going to be the only way to lower your temps and save your engine.

Justin

 

So would remote mounting fd oil coolers eliminate the issue? I could also run puller fans on them. I'm trying to avoid redoing the ic and piping to save some cash.

 

How is that any cheaper?
And does it solve the barndoor intercooler problem?

 

I've scrolled through endless pages of v mount set ups. Which v mount set up is the most efficient? Could I reuse my huge ic for the v mount? On the koyo, do solid alum pipes get welded at the in and out locations ? Any help is appreciated. The oem oil cooler goes where on a v mount?

 

Take the damn front mount off and just try it. You will spend way more money dodging your problem, the front mount, then fixing right. Nothing else seems to work so, YOUR GUANT FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER IS THE PROBLEM, NOT YOUR OIL COOLER, NOT YOUR HOOD!!! We are really try to help you here, no one on this site wants to see another members engine/car break down. I know it sucks that you spent all that money on you front mount, but you going to spend a whole lot more on the rebuild.....

Justin

 

Yes. I am going v mount. I'm just wanting to do this the last time correctly. I just need some ideas or tips on the v mount. I could always sell the ic and get another. Thanks

 

idk if feel like i had the same problem as u . make sure the fan is blowing towards the engine not the front lol . put waterwetter in the coolant . my car stays soo cold now i had soo many problems with it before

 

I like the part where he wants to change over to v-mount to save cash...

 

I actually wanted to do the remote oil coolers to save cash, thanks.

 

saving cash is putting the stock top mount back on and driving it normally.

 

Upgrading the oil circuit <del>will</del> may be necessary after you've gotten the water circuit straightened out.
IIRC, the oil is credited with about 30% of the total cooling capacity of the rotary engine. Even were you able to increase the oil cooling efficiency by 50%, it's still the minor player in a bigger game.

 

One more thing: check the specs on the temp sender. What if the sender is gimpy and you are chasing ghosts?

 

I will be swapping the sender behind the pump. I am also going to add some water wetter. I'm looking into either a v mount or h mount ic. I have a aem water inj kit sitting on the shelf, that I'm sure will be sold to help fund my money pit. Thanks guys

 

The sending unit behind the pump is for the ECU, not the gauge.
The gauge's sender is next to the oil pressure sending unit on the driver side below the filter.

 

Did you bother ducting the space between the FMIC and the rad?

Air travels in the path with least resistance.... meaning air after the I/C is going anywhere except through the rad.

And from owning an FC in the past, there is a WHOLE lot of space at the bottom of the rad.

Consider going back to the stock clutch fan and shroud. Clutch fans will ALWAYS pull more air than any e-fan will ever do

 

I am running an lt10 and use the sender behind the pump. I am running a mini laptop with the microtech software as gauges.

 

Oh, OK...my bad.

 

From my understanding, the stock shroud will not fit the koyo n flow? I have not ducted from the ic to the rad.

 

Is the sender behind the pump not a good location for an accurate reading? I'll probably be out $500+ going v mount from my current set up.

 

I don't believe the OEM shroud will fit any aftermarket radiator that's thicker then stock.

The stock thermosensor location on the waterpump housing is fine.

 

Drove the car around for over an hour tonight. Temps where in the 80*+ range and in boost at 92*c. All of this was after replacing the coolant with 100% distilled water and water wetter. I think I will still replace the oem tsat with the 160* tsat.

 

i would also add a bit of coolent. you know, cus of water, and unlike metals being in the same system, making bad things happen

 

Thanks!