I wanted to share my experience in solving a Crank but No Start problem I recently encountered. This project took a long time as the car is in NY while I live in VA.

Around New Year's my uncle tried to start his car but wouldn't kick over. At first, I thought it was flooded. After performing the de-flood procedures three times, it still wouldn't start. The plugs look pretty worn out so they were replaced but still no joy.

On my next trip to NY, I examined the spark aspect. I used a neat tool, a product called the Lisle 50660 Coil Tester . It is a great tool, highly recommended btw! Each coil and plug wire passed the test.

Since the coils produce a spark, my attention shifted to fuel delivery. But that had to wait for another trip along with getting inline gauges, t-fittings, and more hose.

About two weeks ago, I followed the fuel pressure checks outlined in the FSM (pg F1-50) and verified that there was no fuel pressure going to the fpd, post fuel filter. I also verified the fuel pump control system (circuit opening relay & fuel pump resistor relay) worked. The only 'abnormal' reading from the fuel pump resistor relay was Pin E - Pin F. It read 0.98-1.0 ohms as opposed to its 0.7-0.94 ohms. NOTE: I was unable to verify the continuity/resistance checks of the fuel pump at its connector because of time constraints and the lack of proper tools to remove the trunk internal panels. When I jumpered the Yellow connector, I listened for the fuel pump but didn't hear it.

Although un-verified, I ordered a replacement fuel pump from Rotary Performance. BTW, they suggested using a FD fuel pump. If it's not common knowledge, the FD pump is a direct replacement and fit. The only difference between the two is the filter screen. The FC pump has a boxed screen while the FD pump has a long-thin 'peanut bag' screen.

Now for today, I got a used FD pump from RP which they tested for flow and pressure. Took off the trunk internal panels and went to work on the fuel tank. I was worried the screws wouldn't come off because there was 22yrs of corrosion I had to combat against. I was amazed that the screws came off with relative ease. They needed to be replaced for certain! A trip to the local hardware store provided the replacements. The screw size is M4-0.7, btw. The fuel pump and float assembly came out without incident and changing the fuel pump was quick and painless. The tank was sealed after the new pump was installed, connected the battery, and jumpered the Yellow connector. The key turned to the ON position, I heard the pump push fuel to the rails. The pressure gauge at the fuel filter read 40psi. I pulled off the jumper and went for broke; turned the key to START and BINGO! She's alive...ALIVE!

The added benefit behind it all is that my uncle's 91 Vert is now a part of my stable! After a 5yr break, I am back into an FC. I do miss my old FC so there's a bit of joy in driving this one.

 

hahaha. right on buddy!
and good to know on the fd pump difference. thanks for sharing

 

The Body CPU was another component replaced. The solder joints didn't look bad so there must have been IC failure. The CPU had all the classic indications: seat belt warning flashed with alternating beep beep beep, factory alarm would not properly set, battery would constantly discharge, and hi beams would not hold. Got the replacement CPU (FC66) from Mazdatrix for $85.

Now the only thing that remains is to fix the wiper relay & switch and tighten up the slack in the shifter (auto).