Deentwon

i have a 91 rx7 that the clutch went out the other day.
i dont know the exact problem but theres no pressure to push the pedal back
also when i push the pedal in the slave cylinder doesnt move too much.
is this a bad slave cylinder?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Possibly a bad master or slave. Or a clutch fluid leak. Check out the rubber clutch line running to the slave.

Deentwon

the rubber is cracked where it goes into the slave

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

sounds like perhaps it needs to be bled if there is no fluid seepage.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

But is there a leak? Cracking can be due to age, but it will still work, so long as it's not cracked all the way through. Even if it's not leaking yet, you should replace it before it fails. Mazdatrix sells some SS braided hose to replace it: http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-hydral.htm.

No_love_for_pistons

iTrader: (4)

Check your clutch hydraulics. If you think the slave is bad, replace it... but you might as well replace the master as well when you do this. You can get both fairly inexpensive online and mazdatrix sells the lines (both SS and hard line).

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

Use some silicone fluid for the clutch if you do replace all the parts. Keeps the brake fluid from eating paint.

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

dude im having the same problem! i replaced the slave and that didnt work so now im getting the master. i heard its best to replace them both at the same time anyway.

MyLastEcstasy

Also have the same problem, changed the slave cylinder, checked the lines no leaks, bleeded the lines 3 times

Deentwon

got the new slave cylinder and im about to put it in.. where would be a writeup link on it?
i dont wanna do it wrong

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Putting it in is very easy. Undo the two bolts & unscrew the clutch hose. Put the new one in & you're done. Then you get to bleed the system, which is the real pain. You'll need an ~8mm wrench or small crescent wrench & someone to press the pedal.

dcolon02

So would this be the reason why my car wont even go into gear.. It was working fine as well and then all of a sudden gone...

farberio

iTrader: (7)

The hydraulics tend to wear out at the same time. So yes, replacing them both is the way to go. You should stick to OEM units, they are far better then cheapy units and last years longer. You should also replace the clutch line at some point, might as well go with the stainless steel version for $2 more.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

I find that pushing in the connecting piece to the clutch fork makes putting it on a lot easier, just be sure to guide it into the fork the first time your bleeder pushes in the peddle.

A couple of other things to note, its far easier to do this job (assuming you have A/C) by using a wobble extension, just stick the socket on the bolt and then the extension in the socket and remove.

Remember the brass washer for the hose, otherwise it will leak.

To bleed: Open the 8mm bleeder screw, push down on the gas peddle, close the bleeder screw, bring the peddle up. Repeat until the fluid coming out of the bleeder screw is clean and does not have any air coming out of it for 3-4 times straight. Add fluid to the master cylinder if its starting to get low during this process.

shibidiboo25

just installed a brand new master and slave on my car, i tried bleeding it for almost an hour, no fluid is coming out of the slave bleeder nor any air it seems like and the master res is staying full. is there something i missed along the line? or could it be that there is just so much air in the system that there is a blockage of some sort? ive read other forums of leaving the bleeder screw open and pumping the pedal to get the air out. also at first when i put the new master in the clutch didnt want to depress all the way to the floor, i loosend one of the bolts and it goes all the way down now but still no pressure in the system.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

It sounds like either the bleeder is not being opened all the way, or you have some sort of physical blockage in the hole.

What bolt did you loosen to make the pedal go to the floor?

Also, don't leave the bleeder open and pump the pedal. That's a great way to draw air back into the system.

shibidiboo25

yeah i got it working, disconnected the metal pipe from the master to the slave hose, turns out there was a blockage in it i blew it out with compressed air really did the trick, also did a ghetto grav bleed on the master cylindar by hooking the metal hose back up to the master and the other end to a vynal hose and bleed cylinder i got. and just pumped my *** off, couldnt believe how much air was traped in that ******, anyways, after there was no more air in the hose, disconnected it from the vynal tube and hooked it up to the slave hose and just bleed as normal. oh the bolt i loosend a little bit was one of the ones where the master goes in, turned out i kind of had it at a little bit of an up angle so it was a little missed alligned, but all is well, clutch has plenty of pressure, no air in the system now i just gotta de-flood the ****** and put new spark plugs in. its been sitting for over a month now. got a new bat, new plugs. new plug wires so im hoping all goes well tomorrow. iv'e read several different methods of de-flooding so if anyone could give me a good method would really help, im planning on doing the standard one, taking the egi fuse out, cranking the engine for about 10-15 seconds about 5-6 times plug the egi fuse back in and see if she'll start. also regarding the spark plugs, its been a while since i last did a tune up, the 2 trailings go on the top and the 2 leadings go on the bottom if i remmember. for another de-flood method which said to do if the method i listed above, but i saw 2 different post with the same thing, one said to put ATF or oil in the Top 2 holes and the other in the Bottom 2 holes, which is it?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Trailing = Top. Leading = Bottom. There are letters "T" and "L" on the housings.

The openings in the trailing holes are much smaller, so it would be easier to squirt ATF in through the leading plug holes. I've never had a need to pull plugs to de-flood an engine. Cranking with the EGI fuse out and the throttle open part way always did the trick.

shibidiboo25

yeah thats what i remember from the last time i did a tune up, i know cuz when i bought the car it was the first thing i did, and when i took the plugs out, they were crossed, there was one T and 1 L at the top and bottom.

shibidiboo25

thanks for the help MY FC LIVES!!!!! it was really flooded, i think i did the cranking procedure about a good 25 times or so before the engine finally started up and boy, never seen so much white smoke in my life, but all is fine, car runs beautifuly, clutch feels awesome thanks again

mystery156

mazda sells this awsome engine cleaner that demolishes anything in its way... i used it to clear all the carbon build up in my fc.... just feed like a quarter of the bottle to one of the intake lines.