I'm currently in the middle of a Rat's nest and emissions removal on my 1987 Mazda Rx-7 Turbo II. I have just removed the UIM and had encountered a very aggravating coolant hose that left me cursing for quite awhile trying to get it off. I finally said screw it and cut the hose. I realize that this is the infamous 90 degree coolant hose that most everyone cuts when removing the UIM. Question: Can this coolant hose be deleted because I'd would very much not like to deal with re-installing this hose or possibly having to remove it again. It looks like it can be deleted? Anyone have any thoughts on this? Please advise. Thank you.

 

i like to update to the S5 thermowax and hose. its basically the same except the hose comes out at a different angle so you can get to it!

 

Put your hose clamps facing the rear of the car next time and you'll be all set. If the hose is rock hard from heat, you might can't to replace it.

 

Never mind, found out about the TB Mod. For those who don't know here's the link: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html

Thanks everyone for your answers!

 

have fun getting it to idle cold... been there done that, had buffet at sema with ReTed...

 

on the fence with the thermowax, it's such a pain to remove the UIM with it routed that it's almost worth cranking up the idle to compensate for it. so nice not having to drain and re-burp the system each and every time you have to work on the engine.

 

Listen to that man!
I HATE this "§$%("§$= hose... life is just so much easier without it!

 

I'm glad it's a summer only car!

 

That 90 degree coolant hose... can you just delete it entirely by just brazing it closed or capping it off? Or is it needed? Thanks

 

not needed, easiest bypass though is to run the hose to the nipple at the back of the water pump where the system originally exited.

DO NOT try to use those cheap **** rubber vacuum caps, you will probably lose the motor within the year. you can pinch and roll the tube then braze it shut but it is steel and may eventually corrode through before the braze. best bet to correctly seal it permanently is to remove the steel sleeve and tap the iron for a NPT plug. will have to do the same at the water pump, which is why i often revert to option A, a bypass hose. option A also has the ability to be reverted back if you wind up punching yourself repeatedly as the car stalls in winter and wish for a working thermowax again.

 

now when people talk about the thermo and cold weather. how cold are they talking. id like to get rid of mine i live in s california i think the coldest it got in winter was like 65 during the day.

 

Your knowledge is greatly appreciated! I was thinking about brazing it closed previously but the NPT plug sounds a lot better! I don't drive the car in the winter so I don't think the thermowax will be a problem. Thank you!

 

Below ~70 degrees, the thermowax has some function. I drove my car every weekend since November and it really did help me. But I also took the car out in 20 degree weather... I'm one of the rare few that likes the functionality of it, thus I put it back on my car. The throttle body mod is total BS. You don't gain extra power from cooler air going into the throttle body by eliminating a coolant line that runs OUTSIDE OF IT.

If that much stuff is coming apart, what's another 10 minutes going over the coolant system making sure there is no air in it?

 

Its also recommended for humid climates to prevent ice buildup inside the TB on the freeway

 

ice injection...

i like that idea!

 

up until the point where the built up ice prevents the butterflies from closing properly when you lift off of the gas

 

How the hell does ice form on a heat soaked piece of metal while you are driving on the freeway?

Ahhh... the freeway is in outer space.

 

I seriously doubt that ice production from the venturi effect is a problem on these cars. Lol! I know some blown alcohol drag cars can ice because of this effect but, really? A little *** stock rotor motor?

 

At highway speeds the airflow is enough to negate any "heat soak" and condensation forms. I think it was VW (might have been BMW though) that actually stopped piping coolant through the TB of some of their cars for a few years in the early 2000s. Ended up being a big mistake as ice did form and caused a lot of problems that were covered under warranty

90% of people will never hit it, but the other 10% can end up costing tons.