ok i was told that u cant really make a 1988 non-turbo rx7 fast and i was wondering if this is true or not and if its not can u tell me what all i need to do to make it fast please.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-faq-fc-494667/


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ok i have a 1988 gxl and i was wondering if its possible to make it run like high 10's to low 11's on the drag strip? and if so what should i do and how much should it cost? o and i dont want to turbo it or get a engine swap

 

You want to run 10s on an NA engine?

Easily done....

Drop all weight from the car. Strip it down to a shell and a seat.

Install TII transmission, driveshaft, rear end.

Build a peripheral port engine capable of spinning to 10K or so (balanced, hardened gears, three window bearings, etc.). Run a standalone and about a 250HP shot of nitrous.

Congrats, you now have a 10 second NA 2nd gen. Total cost about $25K.

 

WOW....just laying it straight through....hmmmm

 

If you don't want to turbo it for reliability reasons, you should read about some of the things that happen when you get a P-Port on a rotary. Haha, try searching for "Dying at stoplights."

If you don't want to turbo it because of price...
For $25000 USD, if you went turbo your FC would be one of the fastest FCs ever, haha. That price would net you a rotary that was built for mad boost, whatever kind of fuel system you wanted, a standalone, ITBs, and the Weber Carb manifold needed for the ITBs, as well as a tight turbo system (turbo, blow-off valve, piping, FMIC). For 25,000 you MIGHT be able to pay to have all that stuff installed as well.

Turboing is hopefully starting to sound a little better.

 

Peripheral ports are reliable and easy to drive. This is not a joke.

For $25K, the most bang for the buck is probably a 20B swap.

 

You may not need to run a pp port; you can get by with a really good 4 port bridge 13b. This is done by:
Taking 13b rotors, E shaft and balance
-GSL-SE housings oil cover, and oil pan
85 12A plates and o ring kit the rest will be 13b oil seals apex seals... also if going nitrous best seal to use is ceramic but the price of those seals are 1800 but with proper tuning stock seals can work miracles
For porting:
-some crystal, (just playing about the crystal)
-air compressor
-drummel + proper carbine bits don’t be cheap and use wal-mart bits buy the proper ones needed to do exhausts and intake
-Pin + paper and card board (to make the template of first exhaust and intake port done) -proper (PROPPER) porting measuring and cutting to have the same port for the remaining exhaust and intakes of the motor
-take your time don’t rush and go to far for the apex seals and corner seals will get chewed up or cracked I had to learn that one the hard way many of times
-Holy water a bible and a rosary
That is as far as the block goes.
For performance, you will need:
-1972 racing beat Holley intake manifold because you now have a 4port 13b
-600-650 Holley carb single or double pumper
-12a distributor 2 msd 6al boxes+ignition kit
Being that your body ways 3200 pounds almost give or take you do need:
-t2 tranny + drive shaft and dif however the best thing to do is buy a Chevy turbo 400 tranny and gear it for your app
Me personally because my brother and I built his car with the same set up, and ran a high 12 all motor orig drive Tran but used a GSL-SE dif. However, it was on a 79 rx7 body which is a little lighter. Being that you have a wishbone suspension, I would:
-Four link it
-box the frame or weld in new frame rails which is a bitch and many hours of work
-built and geared ford 9 for the quarter oh yes and the beautiful qualities of the lsd cant leave that part out
-solid mounts
-either tub the car or fit the tallest and widest slick you can
- like aron cake said gut the car to death because I did to my T2 and now I can push it up and down my driveway by myself but now that your body is weak you will need a 10 or 12 point cage for a rigid frame eliminating body+chassis flexing
-good coilovers believe me spend the money
In the end it is all on driver proper tuned suspension weight transfer and tuned motor there is a lot of money involved and countless hours to build a 10-11 second car properly especially all motor this is just a list in a nut shell you will learn along the way what other stuff may be needed and the reliabilities of the rotary. I have been building my car for 3 years and its barley coming to completion

 

Alright. I know how to hold my tongue when someone with way more experience is speaking. ^_^
Also, if that is true, I think I will rethink my idea of getting a P-port. Thanks.

 

ok i got a 1988 gxl rx7 (n/a) and i was wondering could i get enough power out of it to drift good? if so what should i do to it in terms of mods?
o yeah and i want to keep it n/a
ps iam kinda of new to the forms so please dont flame me if i sound ""noobish"" at times

 

no... not really.

 

Just drift.

You don't need power to slide - you need suspension. Power will help make long smokey drifts, but in reality you can run around a track and drift the s**t out of a bone stock N/A car.

My recomendation would be to get some DTSS eliminator bushings (also known as toe eliminators) for the rear and just go to the track and waste some rubber.

 

hey guys- do you think he's got an 88 GXL?

 

nope, 84 nissan 300zx

 

o i see well in that case let me rephrase my question what all would i need to do to make my rx make allot of smoke when drifting?

 

The s4 gxl came with lsd. It just takes a driver to do so. good luck with the..............10 sec. n/a

 

I merged all the threads he started on the same subject.

I would hope that he would not start another thread on the same subject as the past three threads that got merged, but you never know as he might be a complete idiot.

 

lol i gave up on the 10 second thing thats why iam going with drifting

 

Have an 88 RX7 GXL, drifts just fine for me. No need to have a turbo in my opinion. Shifting and keeping the RPMs at/between 5-7K is a skill you need to learn as well as your own style of drifting. Have fun and be safe!

MODS:

Engine and Drive Train:

Aluminum Koyo Racing Radiator
Flex A Lite 150 Electric Fan
Racing Beat N/A Headers
Racing Fujitsubo Cat-Back: Mufflers (chrome tips, black canisters)
Bönez Street Comp Intake 86 – 88 (re-usable air filter)
Fabricated enclosed Cold Air Intake System
FD Alternater / Dual Pulley System
New Motor Mounts

New Water Pump
New Oil Meter Pump Lines
New Fuel Filter
New Engine Belts plus Yahoo Belt
New Spark Plugs
New Excedy Heavy Duty Clutch(never slips/works great)
All original Catalytic Converters have been removed and replaced with a HI-Flow 3’ Cat-converter
Redline Gear Oil used on Trans and Diff.
New Oil Cooler (12-1/2" x 7-1/2" x 3/4") This is an addition to the factory Oil Cooler.
Apexi S-AFC II Air Flow Converter
Zt-2 Wideband Controller and Datalogging System


Suspension:
Tokico shocks and RS*R Springs on all four corners
Mazdatrix Tri-Bar w/ Engine Torque Brace from Mazdatrix.com
DTSS eliminator bushings from Mazdatrix.com

 

To be honest, the S4 GXL are really nice with care.
It's probably the most forgiving rotary I've heard dealt with and thus, It'll be sporty, not exactly as quick as others but you won't be hassled like other improper tuners