Ok so i unplugged the Turbo II ECU and just to make sure the N/A wasnt putting anyvoltage out I plugged it back in and it showed 5v.... SO, I rechecked all the sensors again with the N/A ECU plugged in and I found out that if I unplug my MAF sensor I get 5v to the brown wire so what does that mean? Also with the MAF unplugged I get the singal voltage from cranking the engine by hand at that green wire by the leading coil.

I have a Turbo II MAF thing btw too

 

So the AFM was the last sensor you unplugged and the original ECU finally showed output voltage on the Brown wire at pin 2A wire plus voltage to the coil signal to the leading coil on the G/Y wire? It then appears the AFM is shorting out the ECU when hooked up to the NA but didn't do the same thing to the turbo ECU which seems a bit wacky, but hopefully you found the cause of your problem. And did you plug in all the other sensors connected to pin 2A except the AFM and still had voltage on pin 2A?

 

yea i just realized I didnt have anything connected when I put the turbo ecu in... Will connect all the sensors exept the AFM and see if i get voltage

Egit: just connected all the sensors besides the AFM and it is still getting its 5v, What should be the next step?

 

That's not really vital to do as I was just wondering why there would be a difference between the two. Outside of replacing the AFM, I am not sure what your next step would be. One thing you should definitely do though is to plug in the turbo AFM and see if the voltage on pin 2A is proper and if so then the problem is internal to the NA AFM. If both AFM's plugged in kill the voltage on pin 2A then the problem lies in the wiring to the AFM.

 

I plugged in my turbo AFM and plugged it in and I got voltage to the brown wire! Found out that my N/A AFM is bad, I tried starting it with the turbo AFM just to see if it would start and it did!!!!! ran real smooth, but I shut it off real quick because I dont know if the turbo AFM will damage something in the engine by sending a different signal to the ECU? Is this safe to do?

 

They are calibrated differently so chances are you shouldn't drive the car for idling the car is one thing but driving under load is a different thing. Just be glad you found the problem and wait til you get a replacement NA AFM.

 

Ok I'm going to start looking for one and put my car back together, Thanks satch for your help I appreciate it a lot, you probably saved me a lot of money, Keep doing what your doing.

 

Reviving this thread becuase I dont feel the need to make another one. since last post I have got another MAF and did a Taurus alternator swap. Been running on that for about a month with no problems with starting.

This week I tried starting it and when I go and try to turn it over nothing happens. No clicks, no sounds, nothing, no readings on the volt meter, or any dash lights nothing. The only sign of power is when I have the dom light on. But that goes out when I try and start it. So basically when I go to ignition it just cuts out everything and nothing happens. I charged my battery to full and made sure my alternator is hooked up right.

So where do I go from here? Checking fuses?

 

Does the car have factory alarm and do you need to depress the clutch to start the car. And do the wipers or turn signals work w/key to on?

 

The car does have a factory alarm i always have to depress the clutch to start it. The wipers nor turn signals work when key is to on

When i have hooked up to a charger and i try to crank it has a rapid clicking sound

 

I think i found the problem. The negative terminal on the battery was corroded so i just sanded it down alittle and it fired right up might need a new battery soon

 

FOR FUTURE REFERENCE:
(I am an expert on my car not starting whilst it's turning over)
1. Check battery Cables
2. If suspected flooding pull the spark/fuel fuse located under hood (pink and black) turn engine over to clear plug back in then try turning it over.
3. If above 2 haven't worked check spark plug by pulling fuel fuse removing spark plug and setting on something non-conductive to visibly test for spark.
4. If getting spark pull fuel line off at driver side have friend turn over engine to on position (quickly) and see if hose sprays fuel (I use a rag to prevent spills coupled with a golf T to plug the hose)
5. If you're getting spark and fuel move on to air intake! Check the filter and intake piping for any leaks or clogs.
6. If none of the above are working call someone with more experience because I have run out of ideas.