mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Charged up the battery since it was very low and tested the black wires again and nowboth read 12vso so that is good.

Tested the brown wire on the white clip with it all charged up and I did not get any reading on it. Went to the TPS and tested the Green/ red wire that comes from the TPS and did not get any reading from the multimeter of the check light.

Ive got the carpet over and I got the kickpanel out and Ican acess the ECU if you want me to

I have no clue if this has anything to do with anything, but I have noticed this weird sounding beep coming from the dash as i turn the key to the ON position, made a video of it, check it out and maybe someone can tell me wat it is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rjr3Ew9VAeU

satch

iTrader: (1)

At the ECU you will find three plugs connected to the front of it. Focus on the smallest plug which has ten wires. On the top row and far left of this smallest plug(top left corner) is pin 3I and it has a Black/White wire and this is the same wire as the two B/W wires found in the Orange connector you've been testing so this wire powers the ECU. W/key to on measure it for 12 volts. Use either of the two front mounting bolts for the ECU as a ground source for the Black meter lead.

As far as the beep is concerned are you sure you don't have a small bird or frog in your car?

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Yea the Black/White wire on very top left of that connector is getting 12v
and idk how a bird would get in there and I rarely see frogs where im from lol.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The second largest plug at the top right corner (pin 2A) is the Brown wire that you tested at the TPS and the sensor near the Orange connector. W/key to on this pin should have 5 volts to it so check this wire.

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

I didnt get any voltage on that brown wire with the test light. I always test the wire with the test light then the multimeter if there is voltage, sometimes both

satch

iTrader: (1)

Use the multimeter please.

EDIT: Next to the Brown wire is a solid Black wire that is a ground. If it is properly grounded it will have zero voltage or an extremely small amount of voltage to it. If it has a rather high amount then that would indicate it is not grounded. And for the heck of it check the upper right corner of the smallest plug as it should also be Black and check the other Black wire in this small plug just to the right of the B/W wire that you already checked and found it had 12 volts that was located in the upper left of the plug. The voltage check on these ground wires should be done w/the key to on.

djchiptoothsfc

iTrader: (2)

#1 check for fuel. Disconnect the fuel line coming off of the fuel filter and crank. Put that line in a bottle so you dont waste gas.
#2 check for spark. Take out the park plugs with wires and ground then to the shock tower bolts. Have someone confirm spark. If both of these tests come out fine you might need side seals.

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Checked all three ground wires and all are reading under .1v at most. Checked the brown wire with multimeter just to comfirm and it was not getting any voltage.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Either the ECU is on the fritz or there is a wire such as a sensor wire grounding it out. One other possibility is that the B/W wire you tested is pulled back in the plug and not mating properly with the ECU so check to see if this is the case. If the B/W is properly set within the plug then you need to start removing the sensors that the Brown wire feeds. The TPS is one of them so disconnect that connector and recheck for voltage on the Brown wire w/key to on at the ECU pin 2A. If you still have zero voltage then disconnect the White plug with four wires behind the Orange connector in your pic as the ATP is another sensor and recheck for voltage on the Brown wire once again. If still no luck then disconnect the Pressure sensor plug and test the voltage on the Brown wire. If that doesn't help then disconnect the Variable resistor and do the same as the other checks for voltage on the Brown wire and then lastly if need be remove the plug to the AFM and test the Brown wire for hopefully the last time.

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Ok I will try these after school tomarrow, hopefully I find whats causing this and I can get my Rx7 running again, I really miss it

satch

iTrader: (1)

Some pins at the ECU are input signals while others are output. The output pins send voltage created by the ECU to various parts of the car. Checking some of these w/key to on will tell you something about the state of the ECU. Pin 1A and 1B will both show 12 volts after the key has been turned on for at least three seconds. Pin 1A and pin 1B are in the largest ECU plug, top right corner (Yellow/Black) and the pin just below it (Yellow/Red wire).

Pin 1U (top row second from left, Brown/Yellow wire) will have about 4.5 volts w/key to on.

If these pins show zero voltage then again make sure that pin 3I (smallest plug, top left corner, B/W wire) is properly shoved into the back of the plug so as to make contact with the ECU internals for if it is not then the ECU will not be powered up thus it could not create any output signal/voltage.

Mr.JTurboII

Just a side note, in your first video it looks like your pumping the gas pedal when your cranking. You shouldn't do that. it will cause the engine to flood. The next time you go to start it, you should pull the spark plugs out first and make sure there not soaked in gas.

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Ok just got the multimeter back from my dad since he uses it for his job and alll that. I took a pair of needle nose pliers and gentle shoved the black/ white wire into the clip to make sure it was in there good. I unplugged the TPS and tested the brown wire and still nothing. unplugged that white clip near the orange clips and nothing still. I dont know where the ATP is or the pressure sensor or the variable resister is. Still got to test those wires you were talking about in your last post.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The White plug near the Orange connector is the ATP. The Pressure Sensor is mounted to the passenger strut tower and is a Black rectangular box w/a vacuum hose runing to its underside and the plug to this sensor has four wires. The Variable Resistor is inches away from the Pressure Sensor and it is mounted in a diamond shaped configuration and there is a small tube in the center of it that houses a screw (on the diamond shaped piece it will have an R and a L printed on it). The plug has three wires to it and they are Brown/White (this is the Vref wire from pin 2A), Green/Black and a Black ground wire. The AFM is under the air box and has but one plug. So the TPS, ATP, Pressure Sensor, Variable Resistor and the AFM all need to be disconnected so as to measure pin 2A w/key to on in search of 5 volts. And make sure that pin 2A is properly making contact w/the ECU. Whether it's this pin or that pin, you can disconnect the plug from the ECU and look at the side that plugs into the ECU to make sure the oins are all even. Make sure the key is removed when disconnecting and reconnecting the ECU plug. Lastly, maybe HAILERS, the board electrical guru, will chime in to give a helping hand.

If none of this provides meaningful results then just remove the second largest plug from the ECU (the one housing pin 2A-Vref) and w/key to on measure pins 1A,1B, and 1C for 12 volts.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

didn't follow the whole thread, did he check the engine fuse in the cabin and the EGI fuses already?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Yes he did. Pin 3I (Main Relay) has voltage but not sure if the pin is mating with the ECU good enough as there seems to be no output voltage pins producing voltage w/key to on. The ECU grounds show no voltage so they shouldn't be the cause. Pin 2A (Vref) has 0 voltage at the ECU so he is disconnecting the sensors fed by this pin so as to see if a short is causing the ECU to chill. The G/R wire at the TPS also does not have any voltage and the G/Y wire at the leading coil used to trigger its firing has no voltage as the engine is turned by hand w/key to on.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

then i'd take a minute to pop the covers off the ECU and just visually inspect it. could have a bathtub in there that cooked the board.

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Just to check if im testing these right, I am going in order of pulling plugs as u said, but am I suppose to disconnect the TPS, check the brown wire top right of the middle plug of the ECU, and if that shows nothing then leave it unplugged and go onto the next sensor and keep doing that or do I reconnect it and go on testing the next sensor? thanks

satch

iTrader: (1)

It could be done either way but it would be best to leave them unplugged and also look for any cracks in the wiring while removing the plugs. Again, disconnect the smallest ECU plug and check from the other side of the plug to see if the B/W wire looks to be properly positioned in the plug like the rest of the pins (and do this w/the key in the off position when removing/connecting the ECU plug). And check 1A,1B and 1C for 12 volts w/key to on.

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Ok so i tested all those sensors and with all of them disconnected im still not getting any voltage to the brown wire... Checked that clip and it looks like its in there pretty good. How do you want me to test 1A 1B and 1C for voltage? with the smallest clip on the ECU out or in? and should I reconnect everthing back up for this testing?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The smallest plug contains pin 3I so it must be connected or the ECU would not have any power and thus none of the other pins could have power. Karack suggests that you remove the ECU and open it up to look inside it so as to see if it resembles lasagna. In other words, burnt up. There was another poster who created a thread today w/much of the same issues and a different ECU brought the engine and its components back to life. Seems like this is becoming more apparent to be your solution as well.

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

I have a S4 turbo II ECU would it be dangerous if i hooked that up lol?

satch

iTrader: (1)

It won't run properly as it is designed for larger injectors and so on. I gather you could hook it up just to check to see if you get voltage on pin 2A and the Brown wire at the various sensors you checked and if it did that then you'll know it was the ECU all along. And if you do this test you would want to disconnect the negative battery cable first so as not to damage the turbo ECU.

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Plugged in the Turbo II ECU and I got 5v to the brown wire! should I take apart the N/a ECU and see if something burnt out or something came loose?

satch

iTrader: (1)

And post a pic of what you find if you can. And it's become apparent that the original ECU croaked for some reason or another.