2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

'88 Bridgeport Cranking but Not Starting

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 10, 2025 | 02:00 AM
  #1  
qtckyo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
'88 Bridgeport Cranking but Not Starting

Hello, I was hoping to find out more information on why my '88 bridge ported rotary won't start. I tried unflooding the engine by removing the egi comp fuse and cranking several times, but nothing. The battery terminals aren't corroded, the fuel system primes, and spark plugs and wires are new. There is an odd beeping sound when you first turn the key on, but I'm almost positive that's nothing. I'm unfamiliar with rotary engines in general and I really haven't found out anything about my current situation. I know for sure it'll need a tune, but id like to get it running at least before then. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Reply
Old May 10, 2025 | 08:03 AM
  #2  
notanymore's Avatar
Rotary Evolution
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Community Builder
Liked
 
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 445
Likes: 137
From: in the swamp
follow the 3 fundamentals:

compression - did you check the compression?
ignition - as easy as removing a leading spark plug and grounding it to bare metal on the car and cranking the engine, disable the fuel supply.
fuel - you can supplement your own with starting fluid for a test
Reply
Old May 10, 2025 | 08:10 AM
  #3  
Paulc19's Avatar
Senior Member
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
 
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 306
Likes: 13
From: Johnson City, TN
Originally Posted by qtckyo
Hello, I was hoping to find out more information on why my '88 bridge ported rotary won't start. I tried unflooding the engine by removing the egi comp fuse and cranking several times, but nothing. The battery terminals aren't corroded, the fuel system primes, and spark plugs and wires are new. There is an odd beeping sound when you first turn the key on, but I'm almost positive that's nothing. I'm unfamiliar with rotary engines in general and I really haven't found out anything about my current situation. I know for sure it'll need a tune, but id like to get it running at least before then. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Here are a few questions to get you started:
does it sound like it wants to fire at all? Is it a healthy crank or is it slow?
How its ported I dont think really matters so long as it was done correctly. I assume you havent pulled the plugs to see if they spark when you crank? I would first start with that just to make sure you dont have any spark issues. You can get a spark tester at your local auto parts store for $20 that simulate pressures inside the combustion chamber. unplug the wire from the plug, plug it into the tester and if it flashes when you crank you know that coil and wire is good, then rinse and repeat for all 4 plugs. Also MAKE SURE you dont have the plug wires switched arround as that will definetly cause a no start. I know i've done that at least once lol.

After that, if it all checks out and you have no issues I would move to the injectors. There are 4 of them, 2 primary, 2 secondaries. Not sure how old the vehicle are or if they've ever been replaced but if their rusted shut it wont matter if the fuel system primes because the injectors wont fire.

This is all assuming theres no restrictions in the intake but those items should be obvious.
Reply
Old May 11, 2025 | 02:22 AM
  #4  
qtckyo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Paulc19
Here are a few questions to get you started:
does it sound like it wants to fire at all? Is it a healthy crank or is it slow?
How its ported I dont think really matters so long as it was done correctly. I assume you havent pulled the plugs to see if they spark when you crank? I would first start with that just to make sure you dont have any spark issues. You can get a spark tester at your local auto parts store for $20 that simulate pressures inside the combustion chamber. unplug the wire from the plug, plug it into the tester and if it flashes when you crank you know that coil and wire is good, then rinse and repeat for all 4 plugs. Also MAKE SURE you dont have the plug wires switched arround as that will definetly cause a no start. I know i've done that at least once lol.

After that, if it all checks out and you have no issues I would move to the injectors. There are 4 of them, 2 primary, 2 secondaries. Not sure how old the vehicle are or if they've ever been replaced but if their rusted shut it wont matter if the fuel system primes because the injectors wont fire.

This is all assuming theres no restrictions in the intake but those items should be obvious.
Hey thanks for getting back! The crank sounds healthy, it isn't slow or anything like that but it just hasn't started and I don't wanna dump an entire thing of starter fluid just for a chance for it to come alive. I haven't pulled the spark plugs just yet, but I'll probably be able to get to that tomorrow or sometime soon, I'll update once I have those results. Thank you!
Reply
Old May 12, 2025 | 10:00 PM
  #5  
qtckyo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Update: My dad and I saw that the engine oil pressure switch was missing. I've ordered the part so I'll update whenever its replaced.
Reply
Old May 13, 2025 | 11:41 AM
  #6  
j9fd3s's Avatar
Moderator
Community Builder
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,796
Likes: 3,210
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
are you running the stock ECU? if i was mine, i'd make sure it has spark, and if you can verify timing, that would be good.
next is fuel, i'd just spray something flammable in there, and make it run, and then go from there
Reply
Old May 14, 2025 | 01:43 AM
  #7  
qtckyo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I do have the stock ECU, on the other hand, after putting in the oil pressure switch, the car started to sputter but still no spark. I fixed the spark plug wiring (L1 to front bottom T1 to front top, L2 to back bottom T2 to back top) and it started to sputter more and more, yet still no start. I'm going to try methods of unflooding because it does smell like gas is just messing it up. Will get back with an update tomorrow.

Edit: I did use starting fluid
Reply
Old May 14, 2025 | 05:07 PM
  #8  
qtckyo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
are you running the stock ECU? if i was mine, i'd make sure it has spark, and if you can verify timing, that would be good.
next is fuel, i'd just spray something flammable in there, and make it run, and then go from there

I do have spark, but I haven't verified timing just yet. Spraying starting fluid in there makes it start sputtering but it doesn't get enough to actually start. With all the sputtering going on, my driveway smells like gas and the fuel pump primes so I don't think it could be fuel issues. I'm still looking around to see if there's anything I might be missing in terms of getting it to start.

Edit: With the help of my dad, we got the car to start, but it died after I released the key. We looked at the fuel pump and sure enough, its out. I'm gonna replace the fuel pump tomorrow. Hopefully final update coming soon!

Last edited by qtckyo; May 15, 2025 at 02:50 AM.
Reply
Old May 15, 2025 | 08:19 AM
  #9  
notanymore's Avatar
Rotary Evolution
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Community Builder
Liked
 
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 445
Likes: 137
From: in the swamp
is this a new motor you built or something?
Reply
Old May 16, 2025 | 03:31 PM
  #10  
qtckyo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I actually traded this car for a Miata so everything it came with, which wasn't a lot to be honest, is all I have.

But another update:
We figured out that the new fuel pump is working really well despite not hearing or feeling anything, but still no start up. We moved onto the injectors and sure enough, they were out. After pulling the 4 fuel injectors (2 of which immediately crumbled into the manifold), I ordered some new ones with new clips as well. I beefed them up a bit from oem so when they get here will probably be the final update.
Reply
Old May 17, 2025 | 09:48 AM
  #11  
notanymore's Avatar
Rotary Evolution
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Community Builder
Liked
 
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 445
Likes: 137
From: in the swamp
if it won't start on starting fluid, i doubt injectors will solve it. sounds like they were due to be replaced anyways, unless you're flooding it by shooting a ton of spray in there. i do 2 quick shots of starting fluid and that's enough for an engine to start and run for about 3 seconds.
Reply
Old May 17, 2025 | 11:03 AM
  #12  
qtckyo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by notanymore
if it won't start on starting fluid, i doubt injectors will solve it. sounds like they were due to be replaced anyways, unless you're flooding it by shooting a ton of spray in there. i do 2 quick shots of starting fluid and that's enough for an engine to start and run for about 3 seconds.
It’ll want to turn over yes, but because there’s no fuel going into the block through the injectors it won’t stay running at all. All the intake areas where the injectors are were bone dry minus one underneath the manifold that actually worked alright and I believe the ecu isn’t able to pump out enough fuel through that single injector to keep it running if that makes sense. And obviously the tune will come after it’s able to stay running.
Reply
Old Jul 3, 2025 | 05:27 PM
  #13  
qtckyo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Got it running, but only with starting fluid.

So I was able to get my rx7 running, except it’s running by dumping starting fluid into the intake. I attached a video of me starting it. In the video, I had been cranking it for a little bit before it finally was able to catch on. Now my issue is it doesn’t want to stay alive. It’ll rev bomb itself and die out. Is there any ideas why?
Attached Files
File Type: mov
IMG_6233.mov (17.77 MB, 11 views)
Reply
Old Jul 9, 2025 | 06:16 AM
  #14  
Akaviri's Avatar
Full Member
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 198
Likes: 10
From: Philadelphia
More than anything you need to check every possible source of vacuum leak. The Bridgeport runs badly on a stock ecu because the timing map is going to want to be a lot different than factory. I would verify the timing on the motor with a timing light, and you may want to increase idle airflow by maxing out the flathead screw on top of the throttle body. If the previous owner removed a bunch of ****, you have to go through and document what is missing and make sure it's not leaking. A BAC valve would be very helpful, some people delete it thinking it is emissions related but it helps the engine stabilize its idle.

Good luck
Reply
Old Jul 15, 2025 | 09:53 PM
  #15  
DR_Knight's Avatar
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 15 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (23)
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,409
Likes: 161
From: san diego
Disregard my post, I can’t read

Last edited by DR_Knight; Jul 15, 2025 at 09:57 PM.
Reply
Old Jul 15, 2025 | 09:56 PM
  #16  
DR_Knight's Avatar
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 15 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (23)
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,409
Likes: 161
From: san diego
Disregard my post, I still can’t read
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Chazz13579
New Member RX-7 Technical
1
Dec 16, 2013 10:10 PM
DailySlidingFC
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
5
Nov 6, 2011 09:57 PM
livevil904
New Member RX-7 Technical
10
Sep 4, 2011 02:35 AM
GRSMNKY2010
General Rotary Tech Support
3
Oct 19, 2010 03:20 AM
tbaker
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
2
May 24, 2007 02:45 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:55 AM.