Car not starting
#1
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Car not starting
I have a an '88 convertible that won't start
I had just bought it and drove it home and everything was working great, it started up fine the next day, but then it sat for a few days and now it won't start
it turns over fine, i dont think its the battery, but i've heard they need a well charged battery to start so I think the first thing ill try is to charge it first
it's not flooded, i tried again a few days later- the fuel would have evaporated by then.
it has 128k miles
any thoughts?
thanks
I had just bought it and drove it home and everything was working great, it started up fine the next day, but then it sat for a few days and now it won't start
it turns over fine, i dont think its the battery, but i've heard they need a well charged battery to start so I think the first thing ill try is to charge it first
it's not flooded, i tried again a few days later- the fuel would have evaporated by then.
it has 128k miles
any thoughts?
thanks
#2
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UPDATE
tried starting fluid
observed spark at the coil
fuel pump does not seem to be running when cranking but when we performed a fuel pump check by shorting the fuel pump test connector (as described in haynes shop manual) we heard it running (but still did not start when cranking)
battery voltage reads just over 12 when "on" and does not seem to be cranking slowly
added gas, as it was low, just to be sure
tried starting fluid
observed spark at the coil
fuel pump does not seem to be running when cranking but when we performed a fuel pump check by shorting the fuel pump test connector (as described in haynes shop manual) we heard it running (but still did not start when cranking)
battery voltage reads just over 12 when "on" and does not seem to be cranking slowly
added gas, as it was low, just to be sure
#4
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...........
take the EGI Fuse out( engine bay fuse block) take the spark plugs out and roll the engine over about 20 seconds.
are the plugs WET or saturated with fuel..clean them off.Thoroughly.
put about 2 Tablespoons of oil in one of the spark plug holes and roll engine over about 2-3 seconds.
Put the plugs back in and the EGI fuse back in and see if it starts up..NO foot on pedal.
Post with results
#5
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we took the air cleaner off and sprayed starting fluid in it.. so yes we manually fed it fuel.
as far as i know, the only mod is a k and n cold air intake
we will try what you said, misterstyx69
thanks for all the input
as far as i know, the only mod is a k and n cold air intake
we will try what you said, misterstyx69
thanks for all the input
#7
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tonight we took the plugs out, put the oil in and cranked for ~20 seconds (with fuse out). tomorrow we will clean them, put them back in, and hope it starts.
battery is on a 2 amp charge for the night as well
I'm working on this with my dad who works until fairly late, so progress will be slow during the week.
battery is on a 2 amp charge for the night as well
I'm working on this with my dad who works until fairly late, so progress will be slow during the week.
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#8
[QUOTE=misterstyx69;10765291]No carb floats on an 88 EFI system.
.......
HaHa... Yeah I got that. But I had a similar problem and my floats were gummed up on my '82. I think the internet, forums, and text messages should have a breath-a-lyzer sometimes.
Seriously I think that misterstyx has a good idea on diagnosis. Remember to keep to the basics. Fuel, Oxygen, spark, etc. Bring your testlight and/or multi-meter. Chase away. Good Luck!
.......
HaHa... Yeah I got that. But I had a similar problem and my floats were gummed up on my '82. I think the internet, forums, and text messages should have a breath-a-lyzer sometimes.
Seriously I think that misterstyx has a good idea on diagnosis. Remember to keep to the basics. Fuel, Oxygen, spark, etc. Bring your testlight and/or multi-meter. Chase away. Good Luck!
#9
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Thread Starter
Car started, but barely and blew alot of smoke. drove to a gas station and decided to check plugs... LOL doesnt run that well with the 2 top plugs switched. After we fixed that, it ran great.
My theory is that it has a leaky injector and is flooding it self when it isnt started regularly. what do you think?
i heard that its best to change your oil after it floods, is that a good idea? im at around 3000 on this change but the oil is far from black so i think i will do 5000 mile intervals.
one other issue: temp was reading way low (just above the low line), what does this mean? bad temp gauge? if i remember it was fine before, so maybe i bumped it or something when working on the car?
thanks again for all the help, you guys are great
My theory is that it has a leaky injector and is flooding it self when it isnt started regularly. what do you think?
i heard that its best to change your oil after it floods, is that a good idea? im at around 3000 on this change but the oil is far from black so i think i will do 5000 mile intervals.
one other issue: temp was reading way low (just above the low line), what does this mean? bad temp gauge? if i remember it was fine before, so maybe i bumped it or something when working on the car?
thanks again for all the help, you guys are great
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Well at least you got it going!.
Rotary engines are a finicky thing and I've had my share of NON Starting when hot,or when it stays put for a while.
Best solution is what I have given you as advice..Called the DEFLOOD Method.
Sure,clean injectors would help,But when all else fails,you clean the engine out of Excess fuel and let it Get a "fresh Start".
EDIT: yes,change the oil and filter if you have excessively flooded the Engine,as gas would have bypassed the oil control rings.
The Temp sender is on the driver's side Near the Oil Pressure Sender( that looks like a bell,single wire attached to it)Check the temp sender connection.Looks like a bullet.single wire attached to that too.
Maybe start a Maintenance/Tune up and change the Thermostat and coolant too.Plugs would be nice too.( at least you would have a Clean spare set)
Rotary engines are a finicky thing and I've had my share of NON Starting when hot,or when it stays put for a while.
Best solution is what I have given you as advice..Called the DEFLOOD Method.
Sure,clean injectors would help,But when all else fails,you clean the engine out of Excess fuel and let it Get a "fresh Start".
EDIT: yes,change the oil and filter if you have excessively flooded the Engine,as gas would have bypassed the oil control rings.
The Temp sender is on the driver's side Near the Oil Pressure Sender( that looks like a bell,single wire attached to it)Check the temp sender connection.Looks like a bullet.single wire attached to that too.
Maybe start a Maintenance/Tune up and change the Thermostat and coolant too.Plugs would be nice too.( at least you would have a Clean spare set)
#11
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Well what things can i do to prevent it from flooding?
My dad, who's worked on cars his entire life, says that it isnt necessary to change the oil because a little bit of gas in the oil won't hurt anything, especially since it takes 5 quarts. Is it particularly bad for rotaries or something, or is it just your opinion?
My dad, who's worked on cars his entire life, says that it isnt necessary to change the oil because a little bit of gas in the oil won't hurt anything, especially since it takes 5 quarts. Is it particularly bad for rotaries or something, or is it just your opinion?
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