87 Turbo II Rear Side Housing Crack + Shortblock Questions
#1
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87 Turbo II Rear Side Housing Crack + Shortblock Questions
I have an 87 turbo ii rx7 engine and tranny, that has a cracked rear side housing I want to know if i am able to weld this crack so I will post pics, and tell me what you think. The engine has been sitting outside for a few months, and has some rust on the inside, and alot outisde, making it a current / future rebuild project. The engine is a shortblock and only has a few pulleys, turbo, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, clutchplate, pressureplate, flywheel, all inside engine parts, and throttle body. This car is meant to be a fast street car, and a future drifting project car. I need to know what parts I absolutely need that bolt directly on the engine, i.e alternator.
Crank Angle Sensor
Alternator
Starter
This car does not need an air conditioning or other cockpit comfort things. I am new to rotary's and will not mind if someone simply posts a link to another thread relating to one of my questions, i am sorry my forum searching skills fail quite hard.
Pictures of the crack. The Housing is cracked on both sides of the circle but the left side is more visible.
Crank Angle Sensor
Alternator
Starter
This car does not need an air conditioning or other cockpit comfort things. I am new to rotary's and will not mind if someone simply posts a link to another thread relating to one of my questions, i am sorry my forum searching skills fail quite hard.
Pictures of the crack. The Housing is cracked on both sides of the circle but the left side is more visible.
Last edited by stuwk1; 05-02-10 at 08:19 PM.
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Isn't that crack just along a Flange line???? Was this engine dropped and that is what caused the crack?? How 'bout a picture from the rear of the engine showing what is behind that crack?
MIght stop drill the crack at both ends prior to welding it.
MIght stop drill the crack at both ends prior to welding it.
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#9
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i have absolutly no idea how the crack came about i know i didnt drop it, but when i bought it they said there was a coolant leak, and im guesssing thats it? I still have to disassemble it but im stuck on the eccentric shaft pulley bolt.
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I think I've a old rear housing laying in the back yard, and I think tomorrow I'll take a look at it. I'm of the opinion that that crack is along a flange line and has little to do with water passages.
Looks like the engine was at some time dropped or slammed against something hard and the housing just cracked along the weakest area which would be a flange line (my name for IT).
If so, then a weld seems ok to me. I'd still stop drill the ends of the crack line prior to welding.
Looks like the engine was at some time dropped or slammed against something hard and the housing just cracked along the weakest area which would be a flange line (my name for IT).
If so, then a weld seems ok to me. I'd still stop drill the ends of the crack line prior to welding.
#11
MECP Certified Installer
I think I've a old rear housing laying in the back yard, and I think tomorrow I'll take a look at it. I'm of the opinion that that crack is along a flange line and has little to do with water passages.
Looks like the engine was at some time dropped or slammed against something hard and the housing just cracked along the weakest area which would be a flange line (my name for IT).
If so, then a weld seems ok to me. I'd still stop drill the ends of the crack line prior to welding.
Looks like the engine was at some time dropped or slammed against something hard and the housing just cracked along the weakest area which would be a flange line (my name for IT).
If so, then a weld seems ok to me. I'd still stop drill the ends of the crack line prior to welding.