I am replacing the lower intake gasket on our newly acquired 87 turbo II and we are almost ready to remove the intake, but we have ran into a bit of a road block.

we are having a hard time removing the oil metering nozzles and lines. the air lines are pretty brittle and one is already cracked. needless to say we haven't removed them yet. since they are just air lines do they have to be hard lines or can you use any small hose? i could use any advice with removing the nozzles and lines, finding replacement air lines, and possible replacement oil metering nozzles and lines.

i dont know if the oil metering nozzles are bad or not but they are pretty rusted and look like they wont be easy to get off. we've been working very hard on this for a number of days and we are getting pretty frustrated

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ding+omp+lines

You're going to break them, I guarantee it. I did when I replaced my gasket. Just rebuild them, it's like $30 in parts and it's worth the trouble. It took me about an hour to do the whole rebuilding job, it's not too bad.

 

When taking off the nozzles make sure you only put a wrench or pliers on the lower "nut" part, dont try and spin the upper body of the nozzle, it wont get you anywere. The ultimate secret is to get a thin enough wrench to fit the nut just right, but chances are slim that will happen. I rebuilt my engine this summer and came across the same problem so my solution was to bite the bullet and rebuild the OMP lines and all the vaccuum lines(hell you are in there may as well do it now). so you can just cut the lines that are on there so you can take the UIM off the engine and have easier access to the oil injectors, its much easier to work on them on the toolbench than in the engine bay. I think I ended up using a small pair of Robo-grips on the injector nut and then clamped them down with vise-grips (it makes it so that you can focus your pressure on turning the injector out instead of making sure you are clamping down enough on the robo-grips to prevent them from slipping and stripping out the injector nut)

Plus you could also liberally apply some liquid wrench to loosen it up a bit...

good luck!

 

alrighty then.. it looks like you guys have the same story. i just wanted to check before i ended up having to spend $200 for a stupid hose. thanks!

 

I unbolted the lines from the OMP and removed the LIM with the 2 oil injectors/lines still attached. You can get away with not removing the injectors at all if you do it this way. Make sure you use WD40 on the OMP side, or the lines will snap off there as well.

 

well we got it off and it looks like the engine is fried... so we are looking at new engines. id like to see about putting in the 89-91 engine... i know it had a bit more power. i think im gonna go make a new thread for that.

 

S5 engine into an S4 is a pain to do. Check rotaryresurrection.com for details.

 

grind down the wrench to make it thinner, that's what I did. I had trouble getting those oil injectors off with the motor on an engine stand... they're a pain

 

Deep socket (dont remember the size, want to say 17or 18mm) and a socket wrench. Should be no problem.

 

I'd echo what dottxt said...from what I have heard it is a real pain to put S5 engine into an S4, differences in the wiring harness, different ecu...then the S5 ecu doesnt fit the under-dash wiring harness to run the rest of the car...probably not worth it. Maybe look into just doing S5 internals, I believe you can put S5 rotors in that will increase the compression ratio giving you the extra power, so long as you also switch over to an S5 front counterweight and Flywheel. I think (dont quote me) you can do that pretty much no problem. I'd highly recommend rebuilding your engine yourself, I had no prior automotive knowlege and I was able to do my rebuild over the summer with very few specialized tools (hell me and a friend put the engine back together in his basement with nothing more than pliers and a basic metric socket set). And this way you know all what is going on in your engine and how it all works, it'll all help you in the long run.

Good Luck!

 

well i still intend on rebuilding my old engine, but all the hoses and lines are a mess... so buying a replacement engine thats ready to throw in would be nice. even if we just keep it around and have an extra engine in case the other one dies some day.

however, we are going to need a new wiring harness anyways because the old one is brittle and falling apart. you can order the engine with a wiring harness and even the ecu if you want. but just sticking with the s4 engine is not really a problem. right now we just want the car running. upgrades will come later.

 

preeeeee mix

 

yeah i dont know if you saw but the intake isnt really the big problem any more.

 

Series swaps are evil. You may think that getting a S5 engine harness will make things easier on you, but that's not the problem. The connections between the engine harness and front harness (behind the dash & back into engine bay on driverside) will have to be redone. Not to mention, you will find that a J-spec engine harness (RHD car) is not the same length as one from a US car, so you will be extending all of the wires to get it to fit.

When I ran a S5 motor in my S4 TII, I only used the S5 short block (minus the front cover). All the electronics/manifolds/emissions were kept S4. This saves you the re-wiring nightmare. The only thing to keep in mind here is that you will be running 9:1 compression with a ECU that's tuned for 8.5:1. Using an AFC or Rtek 2.1 to adjust fuel wouldn't be a bad idea.

And a used J-spec motor will not be clean and ready to drop in. You'll want to strip it down and clean the whole thing anyway, so doing this to your existing motor instead isn't really any more work.

 

why do such awesome cars have to be such pains in the ***??? looks like we try to rebuild instead.

 

Oh, but working on them is half the fun, right?

Try to figure out what went wrong with the last engine, so you don't end up doing this all again next month.

 

well i know whats wrong with it. the last guy that owned it last didnt take care of it when it first messed up. so it hasnt ran in 3 years... thats the scary part.

 

Haha sounds like you are in the same boat as I was when I bought my first 7 in April...except mine had only been sitting for a year (or so the previous owner said). Needless to say it starts now, but I wouldn't say it "runs"....

isn't that always the case?

 

well hopefully we will have help from the local tuner shop. we have some history with them and they do good work so im hoping we can get this thing running in a month or two... depending on how much $ everything costs.