I recently purchased a 87 turbo 2 and the car is missing most of the emissions system. What would i need to get the car daily driveable again?

 

I have pictures of what the emissions stuff should look like from when I removed/rebuilt my e-system. you're welcome to copies.

If you don't have to go through emission testing, there are very good threads on removing the system. I get tested every 2 yrs, so fixing the stuff was my option.

- k -'

 

that would be great thanks

 

The emission control equipment is not required for the car to be "daily drivable", in fact many people remove it. As long as it's done correclty there is zero impact on the car's performance. Unless you need it to pass an emissions test, I wouldn't bother trying to put it back, particularly if you need to find all the bits.

 

well a mechanic checked out the car and he says the car keeps flooding because the car isnt getting enough air to run correctly and he advised me to put the emissions back in the car. Is there anything else that could be affecting the car? or did i just buy a piece of junk. any good info can help me out.

 

any info of whats up would really help me out guys thanks.

 

ask the mechanic what is removed, or take detailed pictures of the engine and post them up. i can help name a couple.

 

I agree with jones, post some pics of your engine bay. flooding can be caused by a number of things.

I recently removed all of my emissions equipment and performed the throttle body mod, now the car runs better than ever. While i had the TB off i found a whollllle bunch of broken vac lines that were causing my rough idle/flooding issues

 

a TII a piece of junk? naaahhhhh.....

 

what did you do to the TB. ive been thinking about doing one. but my friend told me you lose low end HP and it idles weird or something. i forgot everything he told me.

 

the vaccuum lines where like completely removed and everything is like skipping the emissions system the way it is hooked up. I will take some pics and post them after I get off work today.

 

The emission controls are not required for the engine to run. It will run perfectly without them unless something else is wrong.

The most likely causes of flooding are low compression and/or leaking injectors.

 

something very important to think about. Does your mechanic no anything about rotarys???

Find someone near you who specializes in them and take it to him, most mechanics don't have a clue about our cars.

I have actually had a mechanic tell me that my valves needed adjusting.......I just looked at him and said "gimme the keys"

 

i have just done a complete t2 swap in my car and i wouldnt dream of putting that crap back on the car if the work is done properly you shouldnt have and vacum issues check your injectors for leakage from o-rings ect and if your car floods then in your engine bay open that small fuse box and remove the engine computor fuse should be the pink one on the left then crank your motor a bit and plug back in should start right up mine does it from time to time hope this helps

 

I have a few items that you may be interested in. In the FS section. they are off of an non turbo, but I think many of the parts are swappable. But again unless you are trying to pass emissions I would recommend trying to fix the issue without the emissions..

 

the mechanic has worked on a lot of rotary engines and he did a compression test and said the engine was right on, but the person before me added some bigger injectors so this may be leaking. Should i replace the o rings on the injectors? The car also has a killswitch that was causing some problems when starting the car. could this be one of the factors to the problem?

 

i dont know if this helps at all but here is a list of parts that are on the car now

Complete Engine Rebuilt
Streetport on intake and exhaust ports
2 550cc and 2 720cc injectors
ACT Clutch and PP
R-Teck 1.7 ECU upgrade
Custom 3 gauge stereo surround holder
Single Pillar Pod w/ boost gauge
Oil Temp, Oil Pressure,water temp and boost gauges.. All autometer ultra-light series
hardened stationary gears
New engine and tranny mounts
Racing beat full exhaust..
relocated battery (optima yellow top)
Blitz blow off valve
Racing beat springs and tokico struts just installed. less that 50 miles on them
1991 S5 Tails
18" Blitz wheels.. 245/45/18 in rear.. 225/40/18 in front
GP Sports body Kit
RE Amemiya Rear Wing
Hawk brake pads on all four corners
Koyo Aluminum radiator
FD alternator with rotor dual pulley
S5 89-91 stereo and shifter surround (rubber type)
HKS Air Filter
3" Custom TID

 

so basically i talked to the guy i bought the car from and we arent sure if the car has stock injectors or performance injectors. the mechanic we went to said they were stock but the guy he bought the car from said they were different. when the car was running it was having issues starting because of the killswitch installed and u would have to play with the killswitch before it would start. could the killswitch be a cause of the problems he said something about a problem with the killswitch on stock injectors...but then again we really dont know..anything helps guys