bdubz94

Hey guys, I've been trying to pinpoint this issue for quite a while now. Tachometer works each and every time and I know t1 sparks cause that **** sparks everywhere if you pull the wire off the pack yet t2 will not spark.
I've tried swapping wires, plugs, and whole coil pack and I get the same outcome.
Both coils ohm out at .7 which checks out according to haynes.
I've checked voltage at the 2 wire plug that goes to ignitor and I get 12vdc at both black and yellow wires.
Also, I believe the previous owner has rigged up some wiring but I'm not sure.

bdubz94

satch

iTrader: (1)

You could pull off the trailing plug wires and switch them to see if the plug wire/plug is at fault.

The coil has a 4 wire plug. One of these wires is Brown/Yellow. W/key to on the voltage should be about 4.4 volts and when idling it should read close to 2.2 volts. You can check this at the ECU (pin 1U).

The Blue plug in the pic is supposed to look like that as that is for the starting circuit.

bdubz94

Thanks for info. All has checked out so far 2.2 vdc at idle and 4.35 vdc key to on. Any other ideas upon this 4 wire plug?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Br/Y wire tells the coil whether to fire T1 or T2 so it's good that it checked out. Since the T1 fires properly as you suggest then the other wires in the plug are likely fine. I would focus on the plugs and wires aspect first.

bdubz94

The thing I don't understand is I have pulled the wire off of the coil bore while the car is running and t1 will spark like crazy but t2 wont. I have a spare coil pack and have swapped it out with the same outcome. Makes me think wiring issue or something this problem has been very frustrating

satch

iTrader: (1)

Unplug the 4 wire plug to the coil. W/key to on measure the voltage of the Br/Y wire as the main pulley is turned by hand (turning the alternator pulley will make the main pulley rotate). The voltage should flip between 0 volts and 5 volts in a repetitive fashion. If it does then make sure the grounding of the coil/igniter is good. The surface between the fender and coil bracket provides the ground for the igniter.

bdubz94

So I get a steady 5 volts doesn't change one bit when turning the motor

satch

iTrader: (1)

How many revolutions of the main pulley did you rotate it.

bdubz94

Probably 10 times occasionally I would stop at a point and hear clicking but other than that just stayed a steady 5 volts.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the problem is coming from the ECU but I can't authoritatively say so thus you have to make the call as to whether you want to source another ECU. You might want to measure the voltage change from the ECU just in case, but I'm pretty confident it can be done from the coil plug. And maybe you'll want to unplug the CAS and replug it in and recheck for the proper voltage change.

And you could also check the ohm reading of the CAS at the ECU by unplugging the ECU plug housing the 4 CAS wires ( Green, Blue, White and Red). Then take the meter set to ohms and place one meter lead to the Green wire and the other lead to the Blue wire and it should read between 110 to 210 ohms. Then do the same thing for the other two wires, Red and White (no key needed for this procedure).

bdubz94

Hmm I may get an ecu. And I have oh med those wires you pointed out all checks out so I'm not sure. Unless it's pure coincidence that both t2 coils are no good, I'm stumped.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The signal of the Br/Y wire should be independent of the coil being good or bad.

And one other thing to check is the signal on the Br/Y wire w/the TPS unplugged and see if you get a value other than 5 volts.

bdubz94

Sorry it took me a while to get back. Just now checked the tps br/y wire and get 5 volts. And just curious if it's normal for the relief and egr solenoid valves to be clicking when I move the tps wires?
Also gonna swap the t2 coil out for a working one and see how that goes

satch

iTrader: (1)

You misunderstood what I was asking. I meant for you to unplug the TPS and recheck the wire at the trailing coil which should have the alternating 5 volt to 0 volt to see if you now got both.

Again, the alternating voltage from 5 to 0 and back to 5 should be independent of the coil thus replacing it should not affect the signal on this ECU wire which you appear to be lacking. If you had access to another car you could conduct the very same test to validate whether you get the alternating voltage change while the plug to the coil is unplugged.

bdubz94

My bad. I just retested and it's doesn't budge. Constant 5 volts I turned the motor over by hand about 10 times and nothing.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Then chances are its ECU related. If you tested for voltage change at the ECU as suggested and you got the same result then that points to the ECU.

bdubz94

Okay well thanks for all the help, I appreciate it.