87 na t2 of trailing pack no spark
Hey guys, I've been trying to pinpoint this issue for quite a while now. Tachometer works each and every time and I know t1 sparks cause that mofo sparks everywhere if you pull the wire off the pack yet t2 will not spark.
I've tried swapping wires, plugs, and whole coil pack and I get the same outcome. Both coils ohm out at .7 which checks out according to haynes. I've checked voltage at the 2 wire plug that goes to ignitor and I get 12vdc at both black and yellow wires. Also, I believe the previous owner has rigged up some wiring but I'm not sure.http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/br...pmtxr.jpg.html |
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Originally Posted by bdubz94
(Post 11901797)
Hey guys, I've been trying to pinpoint this issue for quite a while now. Tachometer works each and every time and I know t1 sparks cause that mofo sparks everywhere if you pull the wire off the pack yet t2 will not spark.
I've tried swapping wires, plugs, and whole coil pack and I get the same outcome. Both coils ohm out at .7 which checks out according to haynes. I've checked voltage at the 2 wire plug that goes to ignitor and I get 12vdc at both black and yellow wires. Also, I believe the previous owner has rigged up some wiring but I'm not sure.http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/br...pmtxr.jpg.html You could pull off the trailing plug wires and switch them to see if the plug wire/plug is at fault. The coil has a 4 wire plug. One of these wires is Brown/Yellow. W/key to on the voltage should be about 4.4 volts and when idling it should read close to 2.2 volts. You can check this at the ECU (pin 1U). The Blue plug in the pic is supposed to look like that as that is for the starting circuit. |
Thanks for info. All has checked out so far 2.2 vdc at idle and 4.35 vdc key to on. Any other ideas upon this 4 wire plug?
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Originally Posted by bdubz94
(Post 11901932)
Thanks for info. All has checked out so far 2.2 vdc at idle and 4.35 vdc key to on. Any other ideas upon this 4 wire plug?
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The thing I don't understand is I have pulled the wire off of the coil bore while the car is running and t1 will spark like crazy but t2 wont. I have a spare coil pack and have swapped it out with the same outcome. Makes me think wiring issue or something this problem has been very frustrating
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Unplug the 4 wire plug to the coil. W/key to on measure the voltage of the Br/Y wire as the main pulley is turned by hand (turning the alternator pulley will make the main pulley rotate). The voltage should flip between 0 volts and 5 volts in a repetitive fashion. If it does then make sure the grounding of the coil/igniter is good. The surface between the fender and coil bracket provides the ground for the igniter.
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So I get a steady 5 volts doesn't change one bit when turning the motor
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Originally Posted by bdubz94
(Post 11902228)
So I get a steady 5 volts doesn't change one bit when turning the motor
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Probably 10 times occasionally I would stop at a point and hear clicking but other than that just stayed a steady 5 volts.
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Originally Posted by bdubz94
(Post 11902253)
Probably 10 times occasionally I would stop at a point and hear clicking but other than that just stayed a steady 5 volts.
And you could also check the ohm reading of the CAS at the ECU by unplugging the ECU plug housing the 4 CAS wires ( Green, Blue, White and Red). Then take the meter set to ohms and place one meter lead to the Green wire and the other lead to the Blue wire and it should read between 110 to 210 ohms. Then do the same thing for the other two wires, Red and White (no key needed for this procedure). |
Hmm I may get an ecu. And I have oh med those wires you pointed out all checks out so I'm not sure. Unless it's pure coincidence that both t2 coils are no good, I'm stumped.
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Originally Posted by bdubz94
(Post 11902287)
Hmm I may get an ecu. And I have oh med those wires you pointed out all checks out so I'm not sure. Unless it's pure coincidence that both t2 coils are no good, I'm stumped.
And one other thing to check is the signal on the Br/Y wire w/the TPS unplugged and see if you get a value other than 5 volts. |
Sorry it took me a while to get back. Just now checked the tps br/y wire and get 5 volts. And just curious if it's normal for the relief and egr solenoid valves to be clicking when I move the tps wires?
Also gonna swap the t2 coil out for a working one and see how that goes |
Originally Posted by bdubz94
(Post 11905425)
Sorry it took me a while to get back. Just now checked the tps br/y wire and get 5 volts. And just curious if it's normal for the relief and egr solenoid valves to be clicking when I move the tps wires?
Also gonna swap the t2 coil out for a working one and see how that goes Again, the alternating voltage from 5 to 0 and back to 5 should be independent of the coil thus replacing it should not affect the signal on this ECU wire which you appear to be lacking. If you had access to another car you could conduct the very same test to validate whether you get the alternating voltage change while the plug to the coil is unplugged. |
My bad. I just retested and it's doesn't budge. Constant 5 volts I turned the motor over by hand about 10 times and nothing.
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Then chances are its ECU related. If you tested for voltage change at the ECU as suggested and you got the same result then that points to the ECU.
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Okay well thanks for all the help, I appreciate it.
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