Bigred455

HI, Been trying to start an 87 N/A Rex for a coupl eof days now. It has new plugs and wires, and is getting a good fire to the plugs. I did that ATF 'trick' for about a week. The motor spins like a champ as well! I *believe* it is getting fuel (BTW how do I check this?). One thing I noticed is that I put the spark plugs in spin the motor for a few seconds and pull the plugs.. they are wet, not dripping, but wet. We also tried push starting the car... got it up tp about 25 mph, dumped the clutch in thrd and second, the tires just barked and rpms went up but it didnt start. please help the car is so CLOSE, thanks.

Taranis

Have you tried removing the FI fuse, cranking it for about 45 sec., then putting it back in and trying it?

Do you feel pulses coming from the exhaust tips indicating compression when turning the motor over?

If your plugs are wet, it's flooded.

- JB

Bigred455

The FI fuse in the engine bay? I have removed it (green 40 amp) but only spun the motor for a bout 10 or 15 secs. Can the starter take a 45 sec spin like you stated? Also should I floor the accerelator when doing this as well? thanks

Taranis

Yes, but you'll wanna make sure you have a fresh battery.

You can, but ONLY with the FI fuse pulled, otherwise you're just feeding more fuel to the car. When floored, supposedly it cuts fuel to the car, but you have better luck with the fuse pulled.

- JB

Bigred455

Taranis, I tried what you said. Took out the 40 amp Ing fuse and spun for 45 sec or a little more. put fuse back in a hit the key it tried even more than before, but still nothing. Should I spin it with the fuse pulled longer? thanks

J D Brown

I had this happen to me once. It turned out to be shitty spark plugs. Upon closer examination of my leading plugs I noticed that the porceline inside the centre of the plugs were both cracked. I put in two old NGK's and the beast fired right up.

Bigred455

I will try some different plugs, because now that i think about it the leading plugs werent sparking a 'hard' as the trailings, I thought that was made into there design?

Bigred455

Also the car has been sitting for 2 or 3 years.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

YOu need to verify that all the plugs are in the right place, leadings and trailings. Also, make sure they are NGKs. The part numbers are BUR7EQ and BUR9EQ. The you need to check the plug wires to ensure that leadings and trailings are right. THEN you need to check timing. Once that is done, do the ATF trick, but the one that takes 24 hours.

If all is done properly, you can raise pretty much ANY rotary that is worth a damn, back from the dead. I have proved it several times now. If you need specific info, let me know.

Rat

Taranis

O.K. try this:

First: get new plugs and wires as J-Rat recommends.

When you pull your lower plugs, squirt a little motor oil (about 1-2 teaspoons full) into each hole, then put the new plug in. Only do this with the LOWER plugs. Change the top ones as normal.

I'll cross my fingers for ya.. keep trying!

- JB

Bigred455

OH believe me ths motor spins like a bat out of hell. It is building compression, since I have been working on it we put a new trailing coil pack, wires and plugs. i will clean off my old plugs, and see if they have a spark difference compared to my new ones. And just to be positive, the first rotar is number 1 and the rear one is number 2?

Taranis

[B]

Yeppers Front=1, Rear=2

Have you done a compression check on it yet?

-JB

Bigred455

No, I havent done one yet.... I thought the was a special gauge for the rotaries?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Its not really the gauge thats different, its the fitting, if I remember correctly. You cant just go screwing any old thing into the plug holes of your rotary, due to the fact that the apex comes VERY close to the hole itself..

Rat

Bigred455

How do I do it then? and BTW thanks for your help guys, i very much appreciate it

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)