2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

87 Mazda RX7 overheating!

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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 03:29 PM
  #1  
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From: Oklahoma City Ok.
OK 87 Mazda RX7 overheating!

Hello everyone I just got this car from a friend. It did not run when I got it. I drained the gasoline out and put in a new fuel pump. New battery,tires,radiator and some Lucas fuel injection cleaner with a full tank of fresh gasoline.
I got it started rather easily really. But after driving it for 10 miles or so it starts to get hot. The engine runs very well considering it has sat for 9 years. Also new oil change with filter. What steps do I need to take ? I really like this car and I am intrigued about this rotary engine. I just don't want to ruin it so I need a little guidance as to what I need to do. So what should I do?

damien71
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 07:22 PM
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88GXLJoe's Avatar
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Thermostat?

Fan Clutch?

No coolant?

Water pump?

It isnt any different as any other car as far as the cooling system, just a little more critical that it works well...

I live near 59th and May...if it is close to you Ill be glad to take a look...but dont blow the engine trying to get here...I am no master mechanic, but I have been tweaking on mine for the last year. If it is a S4 NA, I may have a bunch of spare parts.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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damien71
 
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OK overheating continued

Thank you for your reply. I have put 3 quarts additional antifreeze. I have replaced the radiator cap. But I have not replaced the thermostat. I just hope I have not damaged this engine as it runs so smooth. It is like silk. It is amazing after a car has sit for so many years and then with just a few things done(drained gasolinee,install new fuel pump,battery,fresh gasoline,lucas injector cleaner. The car was just given to me by a friend so I though what the heck. Now however I see I must proceed with caution as it could get expensive expecially if I have to take into a shop that will work on RX 7s. I will say this that I have never driven a car with such power for 1.3 litres.And as I said so smooth. The transmission is flawless! The car on the interior looks like crap as the plastic keeps breaking so I see that I am going to have to find interiour parts and peices to get the car to a minumum level . I plan on having a Maaco paint job. Possibly flat black ,sort of stealth. But if the engine is damaged I don't know if it is worth anymore of my limited assets. I have emailed you . I could really use some more experienced advice from somebody who perhaps like yourself has owned one.

Last edited by damien71; Mar 23, 2008 at 12:47 PM. Reason: did not read preceeding post very well
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 01:20 PM
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Your s4 needs to have ALL (and I mean ALL) of the air out of the system for it to work properly. Be sure to have the car level and fill from the upper cap (near the t-stat housing) instead of the rad cap. Also make sure the air bleed screw on the rad is open as you fill. It should be on the passenger side at the top of the radiator. When coolant starts weeping out of the bleeder hole, tighten it back down and continue to fill until you top it off at the upper cap. Also, make sure that the upper cap is the 13lb (STOCK, not stant) cap, and the rad is just a sealed cap with no spring. They come in a set from the dealer, usually with a spare o-ring and aluminum filler neck.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 02:33 PM
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I also live in oklahoma city around 23rd and may and can take a look.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by introVert
Also, make sure that the upper cap is the 13lb (STOCK, not stant) cap, and the rad is just a sealed cap with no spring. They come in a set from the dealer, usually with a spare o-ring and aluminum filler neck.
The rad has the sprung cap as well as the overflow hose, not the thermostat housing.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 05:34 PM
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You guys are great! I am not sure I understand the different parts but I will keep asking questions. I have been trying to bleed the system but I can see now I have been doing incorrectly. At least I don't think I have ruined the engine because it runs so silky perfect. But I must get this air out of the system. When my friend offered me this car I did not know if I wanted it or not but after listening to it run and driving it what little I have I think I am hooked. These are the coolest engines I have ever seen. I just hope I can get this RX 7 to where I can drive it anywhere anytime. Again guys thank you so very much for your help!
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor
The rad has the sprung cap as well as the overflow hose, not the thermostat housing.
oops Thanks for the correction- I got 'em backwards... flat cap on the t stat housing, sprung cap on the rad.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:13 PM
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If its sat for 9yrs, you should replace all fluids and start with the parts joe mentioned.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 08:05 PM
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Pressure test the system is my advice. A testing kit is worth the money.

Throwing parts at it is foolish:

You can tell if the fan is working just by looking at it.
The water pump either works or works as it leaks.

No one has mentioned the possibility of a blown out coolant seal. If you're losing coolant with no apparent leak, then it could be escaping into the trochoid chamber and being burned off. The amount of smoke will depend on how bad the leak is.

It's a common failure on these engines and requires a rebuild to fix. If anyone suggests radiator stop leak, don't listen to them. Think of that as a band-aid infected with hepatitis. It might fix it temporarily, but can **** up the whole cooling system.

If a pressure test reveals leakage with no external loss, then you probably have a blown out coolant seal. It's like testing for a head gasket leak.

Last edited by alexdimen; Mar 23, 2008 at 08:11 PM.
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Old May 26, 2008 | 12:35 AM
  #11  
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From: regina, canada
rx7

hey, ive just purchased a 86 rx7 with the turbo engine swap, seems to apear that the engine over heats after driving for about an hour or so, i was just wondering what the problem could be and or if the hood would have anyhting to do with it since the body is a non turbo. I was guessing that maybe it was not getting enough air flow, thanks alot hoping to get some answers from ya guys
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Old May 26, 2008 | 01:25 AM
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Just start with the thermostat. That's most common. Get OEM from a Mazda dealer or online. After that check www.aaroncake.net has a cooling system diagnostic section. The Lisle funnel is the best thing for gettng out air; can't really do it well without it. Search the forums and google for more info. But air bubbles should only cause erratic cooling performance. I doubt it'd cause long-term serious issues by itself. Just go through the stuff on aaroncake's site.

Grab a Haynes manual or other manual and do all the cooling system maintenance to prevent future problems.
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Old May 26, 2008 | 03:48 AM
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experience tells me that you dont actually need any kind of tool to burp a system. just take off the cap, run the car, and fill up as needed.

Lloyd
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Old May 26, 2008 | 04:07 AM
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KEEP THAT CAR!

If somebody would just give me a RX7 that sat for 9 years!
I think I would have died and went to heaven or having some crazy dream.

With the advice in this form, working on your car, some $ and patients you will have a super running stock FC.
Take your time, run short tests, rent a garage or space if the $ becomes tight.
You will reap what you sow. I'd give my left nut for that car.

Thanks troops and veterans!
Happy Memorial Day

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