bdubz94

I recently took my air pump, acv, rats nest, and thermowax out of my 87 gxl using rotary resurrection write up.
When I removed the rats nest I retained the FPR and the vacuum hose that goes from right in front of the primary injectors to the middle nipple on the front of the intake.
The FPR is hooked up to the same nipple it's solinoid hooks up to on the intake below the BAC.
Also, when I capped the nipple on the block instead of the nipple off the oil neck my oil pressure shoots through the roof.
I have redone the acv block off plate about 4 times and I know it's not the issue.
The car runs with slight throttle but will stall if left to idle.
The BAC and AWS are still there but the aws connector is broke but to my knowledge it shouldn't affect the car being able to start.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you could always put them back on.

bdubz94

I agree, I could but I'd prefer to keep them gone and out.
That's more or less my next approach if I can't figure it out or get any aid in figuring it out.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

usually it is a combination of vacuum leaks and the lacking thermowax that causes the idle issues.

bdubz94

I can see that. Correct me if I'm mistaken but after the thermowax does it's job it seems as if it let's the throttle plates rest back at almost if not all the way shut? Almost as if it's not there, like now and if that's the case I would assume it wouldn't change anything unless it was holding my plates open but idk just brainstorming.

Is there any potential issues or harm with leavin g the vacuum hose that goes from near the primary injectors to the middle nipple on the front of the intake?
The write up does away with it but I read on others that it's okay to leave and can help with fuel optimization.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you can leave the diffuser air port line, it will aid in idle quality to a very small degree.

for the thermowax, yes it holds the throttle open when the engine is cold and once warm it opens fully and allows the idle set screw to take over with the butterflies nearly closed.

what you have to understand though is that a cold engine does not seal well, it need throttle application to idle, that is where the thermowax comes in. yes it is somewhat of a pain to deal with when working on the engine, but it serves a practical purpose.

bdubz94

Cool thanks for verifying that. And that makes alot of sense. So if I take care of any leaks and it stil doesn't wanna idle can I use the throttle stop screw on the back lower side of the intake to bump idle say just a few hundred rpm?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

shouldn't be necessary. if the idle screw on top of the engine won't allow it to idle even completely backed out then you likely have other issues to resolve.

bdubz94

So after many days of extensive research and looking I have found 2 vacuum leaks.
1 at the butterfly valve
1 the idle set screw but I assume that's how it bypasses the air to adjust idle? Or is it purely linkage it manipulates?
And is there a source for the butterfly seals? If not I'm just gonna delete and block.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

there is a normal leak at the thermowax base at the butterfly. no source for parts to rebuild if there is other leaks.

delete and block the butterflies? i hope you mean the choke butterfly.

bypassing the idle screw? you'd need to elaborate on that one.




i find these threads ironic, was the car running horribly before doing this "upgrade"? usually these are created problems, hence my sarcasm in the initial response.

bdubz94

I wouldn't call this an "upgrade" more or less I was hoping for a more straight forward way to take care of my various vacuum leaks I had on the rats nest and get rid of my sticking thermowax.
The idle screw on top of the intake leaks from around the screw, is that normal? Does it allow air to flow around the screw when it's screwed out? If not then it's a vacuum leak, right? And that only adds to the problem.

I have learned a lot with this car but I don't know everything and that's why I'm asking for help.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

cleaning and maintaining those parts is enough to fix those issues. removing them cause nothing but problems generally.

blow through the thermowax coolant passages both ways with compressed air, high idle issues solved.

replace the vacuum lines on the rats nest, problem solved.

replace the injector seals while in there, problem solved.



now grab a can of carb cleaner and start verifying all the leaks that exist and repair them. getting rid of the thermowax will cause cold engine stalling or a high idle when warm issue, leading most to think they still have issues when they created one by removing it. removing the air pump kills the auxiliary port actuators from functioning without using exhaust backpressure, which im not fond of anyways, it also aids idle quality by dumping air into the exhaust ports for recirculation.

see, people think all that stuff on top of the engine is "emissions" equipment, except half of it has no emissions purpose at all but is for the general performance of the engine. the turbo model cars are the only ones that can omit most of those items without hinderance.