Rite now Im doing a full tear down, cleaning, and re-build on my S5 six port mainly to port it. I was origanally going to do a full Bridge Port, however i just got off the phone with the guy whos going to teach me and he says it cannot be done. I have done a little bit of reading and it seams like it can be done, but people are calling it an auxillery port, and they also are saying that its pointless and wont make any more power then a street port. So I now have three questions to ask. First, can a full bridge actually be done to a 6 port? Second, if it can, but is somewhat different from the 4 port style what are the differences? Finally Thrid, if it can be done, is it bennifical in any way or can become benifical with some other upgrade?

 

I've heard that you can bridge the aux's and make more power, but i'm no expert. I'm sure someone will help you out here shortly.

 

thanks, i sure hope so, im really into the idea or porting and i want to learn as much as i can and soon to so i can apply it to my own while I have this rare chance.

 

CAN you bridgeport 6 port housings and have them work good? Sure you can. IF you do it properly. I do not like auxiliary only bridging under any circumstances. If you're going to bridge it, go all the way.

What intake manifold are you going to use? What exhaust system are you going to use? What ecu are you going to use? If you answer stock to ANY of these, don't do any bridging at all. Stick with streetports. If you keep any of these stock, you'd make just as much power as a good streetport does. When you get into higher overlap porting such as bridge or peripheral porting, intake and exhaust sytem design get VERY critical to make good power. You can get away with many things on stock or street ports that you just can't get away with on these more radical porting styles and still see decent results out of them. If this is a street car or one that will spend much of it's time on the street, keep a street port. You'll be much happier in the end.

 

Thanks you cleared a few of my questions up, but i got a few more for u lol. You say that it wouldn't make any difference over a good streetport, so thus theres no harm it in, rite? I ask this becuase i have the rare opertunity of learning how to do this so im not paying for it. Also i dont mind that lumpy idle which is gained from a bridge port. I actually like it because it kinda gives me the feeling like the muslce car generation did when they would go with a tall lobed cam which would give them that lumpy rough idle. Also in the future I plan on going with some more extreme mods like a haltech standalone, and high velocity/flowing exaust (I read your responce on the other post) so if it doesnt effect preformace i think i would still like to opted for it. Also I wouldn't want to do just an auxillery bridge port. If i do go bridge, the eyebrow port would go from auxilery port through to the primary port, and i dont understand why it would be done anyother way. Finally is there any information you have on a full bridge ported 6 port because i would like to show that to the guy whos going to teache me, maby he just ment like what u said where it can be done but theres no gain in it for a stock setup.

 

Sorry to thread jack but i have the exact same question. But I was wondering if you could retain the stock ECU (or use an SAFC) and upgrade the secondarys to T2s?

 

Same here....trying to fully understand my 13b........thanks...

 

The problem is that you may get LESS total power with the bridge than you would with a good streetport due to the stock intake and exhaust setups being a very poor match for a bridgeport. It's very possible. On top of this your mileage will go down. Engine porting should always be the very LAST mod to do to the car when it comes to performance. You'd be very surprised at how good a properly setup streetport system really is.

I know there are people who have done bridgeports with stock intake and exhaust systems. Most of these people originally had stock engines that needed a rebuild so while it was apart they logically speculated that if a streetport is good, a bridgeport must be better so that's what they do. They build the new engine this way and it runs better than before it was rebuilt. I sincerely hope so! The problem is they attribute this gain to the fact that it's a bridgeport and not just a fresh engine with new seals that is in better overall shape than before. Since this gets a gain, they like it and proclaim it superior. The problem is that they have no frame of reference as to how it should really drive. They know it's got that nice lopey idle which they love, and they know it physically runs with all the stock equipment. They probably even admit that their setup isn't optimal but still proclaim it's benefits to others anyways. However they had never had a good streetport so they really have no clue how fast it would have been. Since a streetport is good and a bridgeport is better in their eyes, this must mean that their new bridgeported engine which is faster than stock must be faster than if they had streetported it. That's logical right? If they are using stock intake manifolds, a stock ecu, and a catback system with a stock header on a bridgeport, it definitely isn't!

See how this works and how information gets passed on by those "who've done it"! Just because it physically runs doesn't mean it is running as good as it could or should.

You need to also consider that to truly take advantage of a bridgeport, you need to rev it higher than the stock redline. That's where they shine. It's not to say they suck below that. They don't. They are just intended to make their greatest power at a higher rpm than your stock engine. Consider that your transmission is geared around the stock redline. You don't just bridgeport an engine and then bolt it to your stock tranny and just raise the redline. Your gearing will be off from optimal. If you want true bridgeport performance, you need to optimize everything around it. I have yet to see even 1 person do a bridgeport on their street car and also worry about the gearing. Race cars do it for a reason.

Personally I would not use an S-AFC (stupid air fuel computer) on ANY engine! It's garbage. (I'm sure I'll get flamed for that but the truth isn't always painless!) Sure you can alter the stock ecu's fuel trim and get a little better performance. For about the same price or just a little bit more, you could have a true standalone that gives you complete control of everything and more importantly gets rid of that damn air flow meter. Don't let standalones scare you. They are not hard to learn how to use. That's a myth started by those too lazy to learn. An add on piggyback type of computer is nothing more than a bandaid. Too bad to do what you want to properly you need some major surgery.

That's my personal advice and I'm sticking to it. I'm sure there are many that will disagree with it but that's their right.

 

I don't know if it's true, but I'v heard that a stock ECU wouldn't keep a bridgeported engine running in idle. Like, if you let it idle, it kills itself off. Was I lied to?

(not trying to threadjack)

 

Okay bud your making some good points and making me seriously consider bridge porting, infact i really dought im going to go for it now. I was just wondering if you could give me an idea of what im going to gain power and torque wise with a good street port. My six port is an S5 and stocks specs put it at about 160hp/7000rpm, and 140ftlb/4000rpm at the fly, keep in mind that that to begine with its going to be running on a completly stock set up.

 

Long story short, if you arent going to do it right dont do it.


You will NEED to get a header and a full exhaust, new intake manifold and a standalone to take advantage of a bridgeport. With a turbo motor you might get away with the stock intake manifold as boost tends to bandaid intake tuning issues, but with an NA you will need a new intake manifold.

Can the engine run without new exhaust and intake? Yes. Can it run without a standalone? Barely. The one thing that is an absolute must is a standalone. The intake and exhaust are certainly musts to see the true potential of a bridge, but the ECU is needed to even see it run worth a damn.


Going to a bridgeport is an investment that you need to do all at once, or not at all.


BC

 

Can you run a racing beat header and keep the 5 and 6 port actuators operational?

 

yes. I am about to do that with my aux bridge.

But RotaryGod is right. If I had it to do over again I would have just gone with a half (or full if I decide to go the ITB route) bridge.


BC